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Messages - hopfenundmalz

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3061
Ingredients / Re: Homemade Flaked Rye
« on: October 28, 2014, 10:21:14 AM »
Yes it was how to make torrified wheat at home. It should work for other grains.

Do you want to do this with raw rye?

3062
Equipment and Software / Re: HERMS and stuck mash
« on: October 28, 2014, 10:11:53 AM »
The suction from the pump, even when throttled, can result in an appreciable force when multiplied by the false bottom area. You void even be causing the bottom of the cooler to deform up. A castelated nut on the bottom should help maintain flow.

3063
In addition to the leaks and rust issue I would also be concerned about the content of the metal. I wouldn't trust that it is really stainless steel given the other problems people have experienced.

Not thait's anything but the coarsest of tests, but has any put a magnet on one of these?
The grades of SS that we use are austenitic and non-magnetic (300 series).

The 400 series if ferritic or martensitic, and those can have magnetic properties. I just have to look at the fridge in the kitchen.

That said for food grade you generally want 304 or better. Knives are often made with 400 grades due the fact that they need to hold a sharp edge. Just checked the nice German steel knives in the kitchen, and those are magnetic.

3064
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Recycling Plastic Kegs
« on: October 27, 2014, 04:47:43 PM »
Great post Gary. Even as homebrewers we need to have personal safety in everything we do. Be careful out there!

3065
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Questions: My First Lager fermentation
« on: October 27, 2014, 04:40:59 PM »
When you all say that you cold-crash, do you lower the temp gradually over a period of days?  Or do you set the temp controller to say 32-34F and cool it down in a matter of hours?  I read somewhere to not cool it down more than 5F per day, or you will shock the yeast. 

I just did my second lager, and I cooled it gradually.  I'm just wondering if I'm wasting time for nothing.

If you perform a d-rest and you had a healthy fermentation then your lagering is not really about letting the yeast clean up the beer at cool temperature over a long period of time but just getting the beer to drop clear. In that case it doesn't matter how fast you cold crash. On the other hand, if you are relying upon the traditional lagering approach then you would want to adopt a slower schedule for chilling to 32F.

This is what I have said often. Somewhere I read that crashing too fast stresses the yeast, and they give off esters and other flavor compounds. As a homebrewer, I will try to go down about 4 degrees F or less a day and see if that does any good. My lagers are generally good, just seeing if I can make them better!

3066
Equipment and Software / Re: HERMS and stuck mash
« on: October 27, 2014, 04:01:35 PM »
As Jeff says, have a ball valve on the pump output to throttle the flow. It is sometimes a good idea to close the valve, start the pump, and slowly open until you have flow (not full flow). Then turn on the heating element, and see if you can maintain flow.

Another issue is that the false bottom could be bottoming out under pressure. What that means is that the elbow contacts the bottom of the tun, shutting off flow. Some designs have castellated ends so that the flow is not shut off, some guys cross drill to give more flow area. Some coolers have a small dome in the center, which makes it worse - don't ask me how I know this.

It is generally thought that slots are better than holes. On a pro level there are many examples of slots, but there are some that have holes.

3067
I am waiting for someone like John Blichmann to come out with a home brew mash press. That way we can all argue over the 100+ efficiency, amount of work involved, and quality of the beer. It will be good training for working at the few breweries with mash presses (Alaskan and Griffin Claw to name a couple).
I have a small cider press I might try out with my bag of grain at the end of mashing just to see how much efficiency improvement and any effect on taste. I don't want to add something to clean, that would be against the point of biab for my purposes anyway, so any improvement would have to be big to make me use one.

At Griffin Claw the grain get hammer milled, the husks are removed, and the fine flour goes into the mash press. That is how they don't get astringency. Homebrew hammer mill needed too.

3068
I am waiting for someone like John Blichmann to come out with a home brew mash press. That way we can all argue over the 100+ efficiency, amount of work involved, and quality of the beer. It will be good training for working at the few breweries with mash presses (Alaskan and Griffin Claw to name a couple).

3069
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: PH calibration and solutions
« on: October 23, 2014, 09:29:34 PM »
I use the 4.01 and 7.01 as that spans the range of pH in my brewing, ex elf for some sours and ciders.

If one were checking a caustic solution, or using lime to soften water, then having tha 10 for calibration would be great.

makes sense. i wasn't sure or knowledgeable on if 3 points of calibration made for more accurate readings vs. 2 point - sounds like it doesn't.
3 would be better. Don't know how it would improve it around  5.

3070
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: PH calibration and solutions
« on: October 23, 2014, 09:58:21 AM »
I use the 4.01 and 7.01 as that spans the range of pH in my brewing, ex elf for some sours and ciders.

If one were checking a caustic solution, or using lime to soften water, then having tha 10 for calibration would be great.

3071
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Bru'n water PH using German Melanoiden
« on: October 23, 2014, 05:59:38 AM »
Hmm, those are the values that I estimated from Troester's studies. I guess the maltsters are reading Bru'n Water?

interesting. Martin- not knowing your logarithm for base malt. might it be the floor malted maris is higher than your typical base malt?
The Warminster is killed darker than other MO malts. Many of the other MO malts are in the 3-4 range, and Crisp MO is floor malted and has a Lovibond rating of 3.5 to 4.5, which is a little lower than the Warminter.

3072
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Yeast starter time question
« on: October 23, 2014, 02:54:04 AM »
All models are wrong, but some are useful.

3073
Thanks, I have already been convinced that my next bag of 2 row will be Rahr. And I did have it wrong, my LHBS sells Briess 2 row pale ale malt and 2 row brewer's malt. I was just adding that I had had the same question when shopping locally here, but great to see the replies. Also, what really is the difference between 2 row pale and 2 row brewer's malt? Or is that the same question the OP had asked?
The pale malt has higher Lovibond and lower DP.
http://www.brewingwithbriess.com/Products/Base.htm#TwoRow
 

3074
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Yeast starter time question
« on: October 22, 2014, 12:05:56 PM »
We had a saying in the lab "measure with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut with an axe". Sometime one would add "file to fit, paint to match it up".

Any simulation needs accurate input data. Validation of predictions are also needed rather than blind faith on the computed results.

3075
Beer Recipes / Re: Helles Bock for Pro-Am Competition
« on: October 21, 2014, 04:01:26 PM »
Chill to 44 or 45, I also have been doing higher gravity beers at 48 or 49F to reduce fusels.

Pitch what a yeast calculator says, which is much more than an ale. Aerate or use O2 before you pitch. Some Wyeast nutrient in the boil is good practice. Lager as cold as you can, -1C is what I have been doing.

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