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### Messages - hopfenundmalz

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3076
##### The Pub / Re: Inside Anheuser-Busch’s Pilot Brewery
« on: November 24, 2014, 12:25:02 PM »
I enjoyed the tasting panel discussion.

3077
##### All Grain Brewing / Re: BIAB and OG (yes another BIAB thread)
« on: November 24, 2014, 07:20:33 AM »
Hey S.C., never seen that. If you have some information that shows how that is a reference standard, can you share?

From what I can ascertain, the dry basis, fine grain (DBFG) percentage values provided by maltsters are based on the percentage of the total weight that can be extracted from a given product.  Briess specs their 2-row malt has having a DBFG value of 80.5% (Extract FG, Dry Basis, http://www.brewingwithbriess.com/Assets/PDFs/Briess_PISB_2RowBrewersMalt.pdf).  Assuming that 100% barley corn conversion would yield 46 PPG (the reference value for pure sugar) leads to the equation 0.805 x 46 = 37 points per pound per gallon (PPG).  If one searches the popular maximum theoretical extract tables for American 2-row, one finds that most spec the malt as having a maximum yield of 37 PPG.

With that said, I would like to know where some people are getting their maximum theoretical extraction rate tables.  Many of these tables contain values that are a point high or a point low if calculated using the data provided by the maltster and 46 PPG as the reference for 100% conversion of a barley corn to extract.  The inaccuracy found in many maximum theoretical extraction rate tables is why I spec my recipes using mixed-grist PPG values, not efficiency percentages.  Not only are mixed-grist PPG values easier to calculate (batch_gravity_in_points x batch_volume_in_gallons / grist_weight), they are more accurate because they are actual measured values.  With efficiency percentages, the accuracy of a stated efficiency percentage is dependent on the lookup tables of maximum extraction values used by a recipe creator and a recipe user.  This possible impedance mismatch is not a problem if the recipe creator and recipe user are using the same brewing software. However, as the number of brewing software packages grows, so does the possible number of impedance mismatches.
Re-reading Palmer, the reference is 100% sucrose (didn't remember that). DME would be close or at 46 pppg. There seems to be some variance when you look on the net for what DME is. I need to make some starters, so time for some measurements later on.
http://www.howtobrew.com/section2/chapter12-3.html

3078
##### Ingredients / Re: Smoking my malt
« on: November 23, 2014, 08:11:52 PM »
I was thinking that since the smoker is used primarily to smoke salmon, there would be some residual "fishiness" from the chamber itself.
AK brewing would spend a day scrubbing down the commercial smoker.

The linkage to salmon is high for alder smoke. Never had fish in my smoker, and people would say, Salmon! When during the alder smoked porter.

3079
##### Ingredients / Re: Smoking my malt
« on: November 23, 2014, 05:32:43 PM »
OK, dry it is.
In an interview on the Brewing Network, Anchorage Brewing Company's Gabe Fletcher talked about using malt smoked in an old fish smokery (word?).  He got an amount of smoked fish carry-over in the malt.  I would expect probably an even more prominent smoked salmon aroma.  Mostly Chinook salmon I think.  I'm hoping that it will turn out more smoky (alder wood) than fishy.  I just ordered some Chinook hops and am planning a Chinook2 Smoked Porter.
Several years back I smoked malt with alder, and it was not fishy. One thought of smoked salmon as that is the wood used. When drinking it, one would say this would be killer with a big hunk of smoked salmon. Yummo!

3080
##### Ingredients / Re: Smoking my malt
« on: November 23, 2014, 04:06:39 PM »
I usually smoke dry.  Slightly spritzed with distilled water may increase the smoke uptake, but not by much, and as Steve says, mold could develop if you don't use it right away,
I have usually spritzed following the advice in Ray Daniels "Smoked Beer" book, but if you do dry I will try that.

1. Cuts out some steps and minor fussing with the malt.
2. You have been so successful with smoked beers, why argue with success.

Thinking about an AK Smoked Porter clone, soon.

3081
##### All Grain Brewing / Re: Aerating Question
« on: November 21, 2014, 06:38:13 PM »
If you get the wort cool before you recirculate with splashing, there should be no problems.

One guy I know will back off the inlet to the pump a few partial turns until he sees small bubbles come out the other end, doing this just before chilling is done, and he often pitches the yeast while this is going on.

I pump wide open into the fermenter, which causes a lot foam, then pitch the yeast. The yeast will consume the O2.

3082
##### Beer Recipes / Re: everett mash
« on: November 21, 2014, 11:01:17 AM »
adding the roasted grains late in the mash is primarily to help prevent too much pH drop in the mash. roasted grains will drop the pH a lot so if you have soft water and don't want to add a bunch of salts to up the alkalinity you can do this. The problem is that you then potentially have too low a final beer pH because the dark malts are still going to lower the pH when you add them so you either risk a thin, acrid roast character or you add salts to the kettle or even the keg (ask me how I know).

Now, cold steeping dark grains is a different story in my opinion. when you soak the dark grains in room temp water for a couple hours you will extract the color and some pleasant roast flavors with little to no acid or acridness. similar to cold steeped coffee. The resulting liqour can be added to the kettle at 5 minutes to go to sanitize.

the 30 minute mash time probably has more to do with it being adapted from a pro system recipe. when it takes 20-60 minutes to lauter there is plenty of time for conversion to complete.

either that or they are going for a wort that is not very fermentable which with that high an FG is possible

I have experience with cold steeping, so that's going to be OK. It's just that extremely short mash time. Now, to be honest, I already brewed a first test batch with extract. Mashed the usual 60 minutes at 68C before mashing out. The beer fermented down to 1.028. I do think the technique has to do to keep the porter sweet, but looking at my test batch, would the short mash time make a lot of difference?
If I were to do this one, I would target 157-158 F, and check for conversion. Beta denatures at 158F, so this would be more conservative. You might try a couple of test mashes at 158 and 160 F and see if there is much difference.

3083
##### Beer Recipes / Re: everett mash
« on: November 21, 2014, 09:27:57 AM »
Many commercial breweries mash high, as the base malt is North American 2-row, as is this recipe. The NA malts are called "hot" in that the Diastatic Power is very high, and there is enough Beta Amalyse to get the job done even at temperatures where it is denaturing.

3084
##### Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Timing a D rest
« on: November 21, 2014, 09:18:03 AM »
75% is a good rule of thumb, sometimes I make sure I have at least 2 degrees Plato to go when I ramp up. Taste the beer to decide if you need more time at the elevated temperature.

3085
##### Ingredients / Re: Onion in my IPA
« on: November 20, 2014, 06:46:29 PM »
Mosaic is a crazy hops..one time it will be like fruits very simcoe like another time it was like sweaty armpits..unpredicable hop IMO

So, either way, it kind of sucks.

Mosaic and Simcoe... my two least favorite hops.  Personal preference.

Mosaic is a daughter of Simcoe, so there you go! I actually like Simcoe, and really like Mosaic. We all have our taste preferences.

3086
##### All Things Food / Re: My German mustard has arrive
« on: November 20, 2014, 05:44:51 PM »
Yep, good stuff, I buy it too! There's a German guy here in Indy who runs an excellent meat market - guy makes an amazing variety of killer sausages. That's one of the mustards I put on them. Along with a nuclear horseradish mustard. Hard to beat.
Has to be Claus's market. When we walk through the door it smells exactly like a German Metzger. I need to look at the mustard selection next time.

Edit - we have been there at times that we think that we are the only native English speakers on either side of the meat case.

3087
##### The Pub / Re: Best beer city in the world
« on: November 20, 2014, 12:06:16 PM »
Portland and Bend are great beer towns. I put them up there with Bamberg for my favorites.

He mentions Berlin as a beervtown, well it has been a while since I was there, but it is not one of the greats. There are the new small places making US influenced hoppy beers, but it takes more than that.

3088
##### Ingredients / Re: Onion in my IPA
« on: November 20, 2014, 06:07:35 AM »
Didn't someone post recently that the onion/garlic thing may come from hops harvested too late in the season? I've definitely gotten onion/garlic in summit. I find beers made with summit very unpleasant.

I heard that at a talk or a podcast too. Hops like Summit are sold on high AA, so they are left longer on the bine to maximize AA, and the sulfur compound that causes the onion/garlic goes up also.

3089
##### General Homebrew Discussion / Re: My First Ever Brew
« on: November 19, 2014, 03:43:07 PM »
The only wisdom I have is that we all started with our first batch!

3090
##### General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Boil Length & Fermentability?
« on: November 19, 2014, 02:37:21 PM »
I know that a longer boil will give me a more potent wort and slightly raise my OG, but I was wondering if a longer boil also impacts the fermentability of my wort? I am wanting to use a 2 hour boil on a big SMaSH beer to give some more depth of character, but do not want it to finish high and be cloyingly sweet. Any input or experience here?

it won't affect your fermentability but it will affect your FG because what unfermentable sugars are there will be concentrated along with everything else. the mash, grist, etc. will set the likely Attenuation percentage and this percentage won't change due to a longer boil (it'll be 77% for example whether you start at 1.050 or you boil down to 1.075 but the 1.075 is going to have 50% more unfermentables so the FG might be 50% higher (1.018 instead of 1.012). Although I doubt it would be that significant or linear.

one other thing...

there is a speed method that is utilized in the famous 'skotrat's traquair house' recipe - you boil down the first gallon of first runnings to a quart and add that to the main boil - this definitely gives you some interesting flavor, and doesn't add much time.  just make sure you watch that small boil carefully...

this is where I would go with it to deepen the character. or just lot's more malt. a Single malt beer can be very complex if it's north of 1.100

Yes, 100% MO or GP boiled for 4 hours to get to 1.115 will turn out to have a lot of malt character.

Maillard reactions will happen, darkening the wort and adding yummy malty flavors.

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