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Messages - hopfenundmalz

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3166
Ingredients / Re: When to use hop substitutions.
« on: January 01, 2015, 07:29:16 PM »
Yes the oils are volatile and flash off, when you dump them in the boil and the room fills with hoppy goodness, that is the oils leaving the party.

You can look at the numbers in this publication for each hop, and go by the averages for a hops oil. Then compare with your subs and adjust the amounts to match the oils for 1 oz. For example, Citra has high oil content, if I wanted to sub Mosaic, I might have to use close to 2 times the amount to match the oil content.

http://www.usahops.org/graphics/File/HGA%20BCI%20Reports/Variety%20Manual%207-24-12.pdf

3167
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: fermentation schedule for first lager.
« on: January 01, 2015, 10:33:48 AM »
As Denny pointed out, you will not get lager-like flavors by starting fermentation out warm. During the first 72 hours is when the yeast make most of the fermentation characteristics that will be the flavor of the beer. If your fermenting warm, you won't get the flavor characteristics you are looking for in a lager. It may not make a bad beer, but if your going to create ale-like esters in your lager, why not just stick with ale yeasts? That doesn't make much sense, now, does it?

For my lager schedule I start out at 48 before I pitch yeast. Aerate twice as long as ales (I prefer pure o2) pitch twice as much yeast, and let fermentation kick into high krausen at those cold temps. After about 72-96 hours you might decide to bump the temp up 2 degrees, and continue doing so every 24 hours until you get up to 56-58 degrees and let the fermentation slowly finish up. When signs of fermentation seriously start to slow down you could even let the temp raise to 60-62 to really let the beer finish cleaning itself up. Wait a few days around the 58-62 degree mark after fermentation has mostly stopped, then you can crash down to 32-34 degrees and lager for at least 1-2 weeks.

For low gravity lagers, you really only need a couple of weeks lagering time as long as you had a healthy fermentation, pitched at proper temps and got a good d-rest, etc.

Higher gravity you may want 4-6 weeks lagering.

This is close to what I do. Lagering at -1C is something I did for all of my lagers last year.

3168
Ingredients / Re: Boil time for all late hopped beer
« on: January 01, 2015, 10:30:53 AM »
The boil does more than drive off the DMS, so 60 minutes minimum boil for me. I do a Cream Ale now and then where all hops are added after flame out and whirlpooled for 45 minutes. This just uses Mt. Hood so the AA is not too high, but the beer end up having appropriate bitterness. I estimated a 12% utilization from what I can find on the net, and it seems to be about right.

Using higher AA hops will give a nice APA, with plenty of bitterness.

Edit - good to see you back.

3169
The Pub / Re: What's your New Years Eve beer?
« on: January 01, 2015, 10:25:30 AM »
We lived it up with a bottle of Schramm's Heart of Darkness.
That is great stuff! I had a sample at the NHC in Grand Rapids and I was so impressed that I decided to give Mead making another shot the past year.
One of those times when you pull that special occasion bottle off of the shelf and appreciate it. Great stuff, agreed.

3170
All Grain Brewing / Re: 60 Minute mash?
« on: January 01, 2015, 10:23:33 AM »
I have thinking about shortening my mash times to 45 minutes. Using a refractometer I have noticed no significant increases in gravity past that time.  Plus by the time I run off my first runnings, fill up the MLT, and vorlauf the grain bed has been at mash temps for probably close to 75-80 minutes.  So why not not shorten the "official" mash time to 45 minutes?

There are breweries that rest for only 20 minutes. Some of those wet mill with hot water so the mash begins with milling. Then they pump from the mash tun into the lauter tun, that takes some time for large batch sizes such as 200 barrels, no.

A lot of those breweries are also vorlaufing for another 20-30 minutes, during which time "mashing" is still happening.

Yep, the enzymes are working before and after the "mash".

3171
The Pub / Re: What's your New Years Eve beer?
« on: January 01, 2015, 07:43:01 AM »
We lived it up with a bottle of Schramm's Heart of Darkness.

3172
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: cold crashing
« on: December 31, 2014, 10:34:21 PM »

I cold crash all of my beers... In the keg. 
What he said.
At the very end I bring them up to 98.6º as rapidly as I can for final filtering
That is why we have kidneys.

3173
All Grain Brewing / Re: 60 Minute mash?
« on: December 31, 2014, 08:32:19 PM »
I have thinking about shortening my mash times to 45 minutes. Using a refractometer I have noticed no significant increases in gravity past that time.  Plus by the time I run off my first runnings, fill up the MLT, and vorlauf the grain bed has been at mash temps for probably close to 75-80 minutes.  So why not not shorten the "official" mash time to 45 minutes?

There are breweries that rest for only 20 minutes. Some of those wet mill with hot water so the mash begins with milling. Then they pump from the mash tun into the lauter tun, that takes some time for large batch sizes such as 200 barrels, no.

3174
Ingredients / Re: Hop varieties
« on: December 31, 2014, 06:51:04 PM »
If you like citrus, try Mandarina Bavaria sometime. Aroma and taste of Mandarin Oranges.

3175
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: German Lager X available yet???
« on: December 30, 2014, 07:51:23 PM »
I had been thinking about going to AiH in Ann Arbor, now I need to go tomorrow! Don't know if they have it yet, but I liked that one.

3176
All Things Food / Re: Pretzels
« on: December 29, 2014, 10:39:43 AM »
Yeah ....in search of the perfect tan for my laugenbrezeln


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Laugenbrezlen translates to lye pretzels. Really.

3177
Equipment and Software / Re: Cadillac of chillers?
« on: December 29, 2014, 07:45:14 AM »
Very large surface area=more heat transfer.

3178
All Grain Brewing / Re: Water options
« on: December 29, 2014, 07:29:58 AM »
Good point on the water softener...that's actually what we have. I can bypass it though and yes, plan on using a drinking safe hose.

Until I get my water tested, can I simply use some other form of gallon bottled water. Spring, drinking, etc. that isn't RO/ distilled?
You want to know the levels of the brewing ions in the water.
RO water will be low. Spring water will be whatever the spring files through, it can be low ions or high and be called spring water.

Read about water and brewing, then when you know the goal you can make a decissikn.

3179
Beer Recipes / Re: NHC Gold Medal Recipes
« on: December 26, 2014, 06:38:51 AM »
Very cool, odd source but very cool. Thanks Jim!
Some sorted the AHA recipes and it links back to the AHA recipe page.  Nice work.

3180
Beer Recipes / Re: NHC Gold Medal Recipes
« on: December 25, 2014, 08:59:13 AM »
Nice find, Jim.

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