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Messages - hopfenundmalz

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Ingredients / Re: maris otter flavor?
« on: July 24, 2013, 09:49:24 AM »
If you want to taste what MO tastes like, find some Low Color MO. Only about 2L, and not biscuity. Have had some summer ales in London made with that, and there is a good malt flavor.

Equipment and Software / Re: Keggle not kegel
« on: July 24, 2013, 06:57:14 AM »
Before I had a tiered stand, I would drain my mash tun into buckets and pour them into the kettle to break it into smaller volumes.
i know some that do that. I am a little more lazy. ;)

Beer Recipes / Re: English Pale Ale
« on: July 24, 2013, 06:09:25 AM »
The one I use for British Barleywines and IPAs is 1028.

One that I forgot to mention is the WLP-022 Essex Ale Yeast, which makes a great bitter. The Ordinary Bitter on tap at my house right now used this yeast, and I agree with the bready description. This is a local Brewpub's house yeast.

Equipment and Software / Re: Keggle not kegel
« on: July 24, 2013, 05:58:50 AM »
Nothing with 80 lbs of liquid is easy or safe to move when full. The better solution is to make changes so you don't have to move it.
With boiling hot liquid, more so.

To address the original question, use a tiered stand and gravity to transfer the liquid. The more costly solution is a pump(s) to move the liquid on a single level set up.

The Pub / Re: Kitchen re-do
« on: July 23, 2013, 04:42:35 PM »
We did an kitchen renovation  about 2 months back. We were happy with the cabinets and counter tops. Replaced the $0.79/sq. ft. Contractor grade tile with 10.79 travertine. Travertine backsplash, with travertine electrical outlet covers. Also did some nice glass and SS surrounds for the can lights, and put in some LED's which make it much brighter. The appliances were getting somewhat suspect, so most were replaced with SS, and we went from an electrict to a gas stove. Efficiencies are higher, and the appliances are much quieter.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: clarification methods
« on: July 21, 2013, 05:42:35 AM »
Beers clear faster at 32F, as the particles are larger, and Stoke's law says the larger particles will drop faster.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Pressure question
« on: July 20, 2013, 09:36:25 AM »
That's probably the problem - hops in the keg. It still comes out, should I do anything about it or just leave it for this batch?
If the flow stops completely, you can disconnect the tap, and the pressure. Vent the keg with the Pressure Relief Valve. Use a wrench and pull off the out post. Pull the dip tube and clear it. Inspect the poppet, and you may have to remove from the post to clear out the hops. Sanitize, and reassemble. Put the pressure on, and purge the keg a few times with the PRV. Drop the pressure to 10 PSI, attach the tap line and see if it flows. You might want to clean your tap too.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Pressure question
« on: July 20, 2013, 06:47:23 AM »
We're you careful not to get hops in the keg, or have the hops in a fine mess bag if you dry hopped? I have plugged the dip tube and also plugged the poppet with hops. My solution is to now rack with a paint strainer fine mesh nylon bag over the racking cane.

Beer Recipes / Re: English Pale Ale
« on: July 19, 2013, 07:14:50 PM »
Here's a thread with a good recipe from Jeff.

I make one using almost all Maris Otter with some black malt for color and about 10% sugar to dry it out.  Styrian Goldings work well and the yeast Jeff uses is spot on for a Bitter.
thanks for the shout out, Jeff!

Now I have to ask how it is so memorable? Could be bundled with a trip to Bend to see friends someday.

Beer Recipes / Re: English Pale Ale
« on: July 19, 2013, 01:09:11 PM »

Beer Recipes / Re: English Pale Ale
« on: July 19, 2013, 12:09:39 PM »
You can make very true to style English pale ale with all Challenger hops.

I like Crisp MO, or Warminster MO.

As for specialty grains, just some medium crystal, or some carastan ~35L are good. A little torrified wheat works well. 

You want a pale ale water profile. See Brunwater.

Most of the English yeast are good choices. I like 002/1968, 1469, 1275 for bitters and pale ales.

Some kettle sugars will help dry it out if you wish. I use turbinado if I have it. Lyles Golden syrup works well.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: This is Why Tanks Must be Tested.
« on: July 18, 2013, 02:48:41 PM »
Sounds like somebody's gonna be in trouble for filling it.

That is how the follow up reads. IIRC, the gas company is recalling tanks to check that those are current.

Going Pro / Re: So you want to be a brewer
« on: July 16, 2013, 07:39:26 AM »
I'm coming in here behind the ball, but here is my take on it:
I've been homebrewing for 3 years, and have been rather successful at it. Numerous gold medals, a silver, and more HMs than I could count. I've had the "Your beer is great! When do you open your brewery?" question many times. So I contacted a few wealthy friends about the idea, and one of them was very enthusiastic about it. Well, until it came time to actually put down some money for it, then he was strangely absent. Needless to say, I was pretty discouraged. I had spent a LOT of time, researching, meeting with other brewers, talking to city officials, etc...
So I decided to stick with just homebrewing.
But I never gave up my belief in, and desire for, becoming a pro brewer. 
I was lucky enough to meet with a local pro brewer through my club, and he mentioned that they needed an assistant. Who do you think was jumping up and down, shouting "Me! Me! Me!"? He then contacted me, after talking to several of the officers of the club, and offered me the job. It was a tough decision, to step away from a decent paying job, and start at the bottom in a new profession. But I did it, and have been the happiest I've ever been.
It is a lot of time spent cleaning. And cleaning. And cleaning. And cleaning... You get the point. It is many many hours in a hot and humid environment. Even with boots on, my feet are constantly wet. Grain get very freaking heavy, after you've lifted 10,000 lbs worth to sort and stack in the grain room. It is very dusty and dirty, after milling a batch. Then cleaning the mash tun, when 1000 lbs of grain becomes almost 2000 lbs of wet, hot grain.
But you know what? Best decision of my life. I couldn't be happier, working a hard, labor intensive job for a smaller paycheck.  So you want to be a brewer? Better know what you really want. If you want all this, then good luck. A lot of people think they can handle this, but don't know what they are getting into. The head brewer where I work told me they have fired or let go of many assistants who thought it was all fun and drinking beer.
If you want to open your own brewery, better have a lot of capital to back you up. And be prepared to work harder than you ever have. If you truly love it, it won't be work.
I love my job, and go home more tired and sore, but ultimately more satisfied, than I ever have.
Thank you for posting that.

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