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Messages - hopfenundmalz

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Ingredients / Re: Is Wet Hopping BS?
« on: September 17, 2014, 01:13:17 PM »
The one I made last year was not so good out of the box, but with some conditioning time of several months the chlorophyll calmed down and some nice hop character came out.

You can put me down as impressed.

With lighting can you do more than one crop a year? how many?

Ingredients / Re: higher alpha subs for noble hops
« on: September 17, 2014, 10:25:15 AM »
FWIW, start looking for subs for Northern Brewer.  Most hop growers will no longer be growing it due to low yield.

So what are we going to do for California Commons in competitions? Joking.

More like what will Anchor Brewing do?

Perle was bred from NB, and has some similarities.

Ingredients / Re: maris otter
« on: September 17, 2014, 09:55:02 AM »
Who carries the low Lovibond varieties, Jeff?
The summer ales I had were in London.

I think I got some from Midwest, or was it Northern Brewer, a couple years back.

You could probably order from these guys.

Ingredients / Re: higher alpha subs for noble hops
« on: September 17, 2014, 09:50:52 AM »
Hops and the substitution, Which they may have in the parentage.

Santium is slightly higher than Tettnanger.

Sterling is much higher than Saaz.

Vangaurd is a little higher than Hallertau.

I have used all of these, and they work reasonably well. For my competition German style beers I will use German hops for the flavor and aroma to have the appropriate flavor and aroma.

Ingredients / Re: maris otter
« on: September 17, 2014, 06:54:34 AM »
Maris Otter is a type of barley but the real key is who malted the Maris Otter. Not all maltsters are the same and not all MO is the same either. Look for floor malted MO like Crisp or Thomas Fawcett. I especially like the TF.

MO can be used to substitute basemalt in any recipe, just understand that it is going to have a particular flavor. It is best described as "biscuity" - but not as in biscuits that we are familiar with in America. More like English biscuit, which is a bland tasting type of cookie. And even that English biscuit is not an exact comparison. You really just have to do a 100% MO beer (preferably floor malted) and taste it to understand the flavor.

I personally think the flavor can clash with American hops if what you are going for is a west coast hop bomb, but can add a nice touch if blended with some US 2-row. On the other hand I have done 100% Maris Otter and 100% Columbus and really liked the results.

In the end, experimentation is going to be your best friend, but I do highly recommend looking for the floor malted varieties if you want to get the best MO flavor.

There is also a low color MO made by one or more of the maltsters that is only about 2L. With that you do not get the toasty, biscuit flavor, but there is a rich malt flavor. That type of MO is used in many of the Summer Ales that are light in color and body, as those have little or no crystal.

Going Pro / Re: Who the **** would sell me a building?
« on: September 17, 2014, 12:15:51 AM »
It is been a while since I was there, 20 years? I do remember the air being thin.

Going Pro / Re: Who the **** would sell me a building?
« on: September 16, 2014, 07:30:43 PM »
Damn the sky is big down there! Its hard to imagine an area without trees like that around here. They each have their own beauty. Best of luck!
At 10,000+ ft trees have a hard time growing. Note those snow covered mountains to the right of the building.

If you brew bitters according to Graham Wheeler's recipes will American BJCP judges recognize the beer as a bitter or are they expecting caramel malts?

Jamil Z said his scores were better when the beer was old and had more of the oxidized character.

Then you should also look at the winners in category 8 over the years in the NHC. Go through those here-

This guy has more than a first full of medals. Hey - no crystal malt!

Some will have a little crystal and brewer's invert sugar, maybe some torrified wheat.

How little?  I tend to use around 5% in my bitters, often along with a small amount of chocolate malt (maybe 2 oz).

From memory, most have 5% or less crystal malt.

I looked that up yesterday and told Mrs. R we are going.

With all your experience, I think you'd get a lot out of it.  They run sessions for commercial brewers, wholesalers and retailers and one for homebrewers.  I went to the commercial session and found it really interesting.  They've asked me to be a speaker at next year's homebrewer session.

Rodney said it was great on the book of face. Will ask him for more details.
Nothing like another excuse to go to the PNW.

Well, what did Graham Wheeler's book say?  Don't keep us in suspense.

If you read his book, you will see that most of the recipes do not contain sizable amounts of crystal malt.  In fact, a large number of the recipes contain no crystal malt.  The darker colors that we associate with British bitter are often the result of the addition of a small amount of black or chocolate malt.

Is it the CAMRA publication for homebrewers or another book?

I was remarking the other day to a friend who travels frequently to Europe - I have never had a fresh example of many of the beers I brew and I wonder how well the recipes I brew stack up to the real thing.  For example I recently brewed a Mild from the Craft beers for the Homebrewer from Cigar City Brewing - it is fantastic, but I wish I had access to a British version to see how well it compares...I don't even have access to the Cigar City version!

Real Ales like Fullers are much better at the source.

S. cerevvisiae has it right, there is not large amounts of crystal in most of the recipes in Wheeler's books or in the Real Ale Almanac by Protz. Many are just Pale Ale malt in the grain bill. Some will have a little crystal and brewer's invert sugar, maybe some torrified wheat.

I have been reducing my pitch rate on the Bitters I brew, as they were too clean of esters. Reducing aeration also helped. One local brewpub that makes some fairly fruity English style beers will double the pitch rate to make a fairly clean American style ale.

Chris White was at the LHBS Big Brew last year. I asked about pitch rates for British style beers and he said the British brewers underpitch and get more esters. The last few Bitters I brewed have had the pitch rate reduced to around a half, next time I will try the 1/3 that S. c. recommends.

Ingredients / Re: Post your water report
« on: September 16, 2014, 05:31:41 AM »
My water report from Virginia Beach, VA.  We get our water from the Moore's Bridges Plant in Norfolk, VA, which in turn, is fed from Lake Gaston.

pH : 7.48
Na: 11.4
Ca: 17
Mg: 5.6
Cl: 16
SO4-S: 35.4
HCO3: 31.6
TA, CaCO3: 26
TH, CaCO3: 66

Pretty nice water. The SO4 might be high for some styles (multiply by 3 so it is 106.2 ppm) but still pretty darned nice.

Because I am new to adjusting my water, why do I multiply SO4 by three?  Is it because it is expressed as a certain value and therefore must be tripled in value to determine the true ppm value?

I am not a chemist, but here goes. Ward labs reports the Sulfur content, that is what the -S represents. The atomic weight of Sulfur is 32. The atomic weight of Oxygen is 16. So SO4 has a molecular weight of 32 + 4*16 = 96, or 3 times that of Sulfur. Probably more to it, but that works for this old engineer.

I just learned an interesting fact at Hop&Brew School...onion/garlic character can often be attributed to harvesting the hops too late.  That could explain why some people see it with summit and some don't.

That's a good thing to know.  It looks like attending the Hop and Brew School may be a good investment.

It's only $150 and it's money well spent.
I looked that up yesterday and told Mrs. R we are going.

Ingredients / Re: Post your water report
« on: September 15, 2014, 05:43:05 PM »
I am on a well system and just this spring I installed an RO system with a 20 gallon tank.  I draw off the RO water and keep it in typical 5 gallon water bottles that I seal up until brew day.  This may have been asked and answered in this thread already, but 19 pages of water reports made me jump in at the the question:

My RO registers about 24-30 TDS on the meter I installed.  Is that low enough to just consider it as being 0 for the water calculators?  Or should I send it in for a test report to get the actual numbers for adjustment?  I use Martin's advanced Brunwater spreadsheet and I am just getting used to doing so (before I was just using bottled water for brewing and adding from the water report from the water delivery company, as necessary).

Any thoughts on TDS in that low range?
The RO I sent to Ward Labs came back at 12 ppm TDS. All of the brewing ions were listed as <1 ppm. Note sure if that answers your question, but that is the datum I have for RO water's TDS.

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