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Messages - hopfenundmalz

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3256
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: That German lager flavor
« on: August 01, 2012, 04:13:26 PM »
I don't think this topic has come up yet. I've read in numerous places (don't have sources handy) that cooling to secondary lagering temps after a diacetyl rest (or not) should be slow (4 degrees F per day? Don't have the number handy.). How crucial is this? Has anyone compared a "fast cold crash" lager to a slow cooling to lager temps? For those that cool slowly to lager temps, how do you do it? The freezer portion of my lager fridge stores meat and other frozen foods, so I can't raise the temp in the fridge above ~40 without spoiling food (I'm in Florida). I do my best to insulate my fermenter when starting the lager stage, but I'm sure it's cooling a lot faster than what I've read is ideal. However my lagers seem to be just fine. Thoughts?
Cheers!

You have cleaned up the beer with the elevated D-rest. You can crash it down. You could go down slowly, but what is the point as the yeast have cleaned up.

I will continue to link to Kai's site, even though he is back.  ;) The profile F is what I am talking about. Lower right of all the graphs.
http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php?title=Fermenting_Lagers#Maturation_of_the_beer


3257
The Pub / Re: Hi there
« on: August 01, 2012, 11:38:49 AM »
Welcome back. You have been missed!

I will proceed to spend some time reading the blog entry on zinc.  ;)

3258
The Pub / Re: I want to toast to Euge's father
« on: August 01, 2012, 05:12:08 AM »
You have my sympathy, Euge.  Your father had a long and interesting life. I will raise a glass in his honor.

3259
Equipment and Software / Re: Immersion chiller question
« on: July 31, 2012, 02:18:08 PM »
Not much to go on as to specifics

I have a 50 ft 1/2 in chiller. Wort is recirculated with my March pump so that it whirlpools around the chiller. Running the cooling water wide open I can chill a 10 gallon batch to 65 in a little less than 15 min in the winter when the tap water is cold. In the summer I can get to 100F fairly quick, but need to use an ice bath and pond pump if the tap water is >70F.

Running slow will minimize the water used.
Running fast will minimize the time. Read my post.

Since water is cheap, I choose to minimize my time.

Winter cooling is about 5 minutes, considering I have to drive the hose while I'm mashing and boiling. In the summer.
In the summer(as I described) I don't need a pump or ice bath to get to pitching temps just go clean something while I wait.

I do agree that water is cheap, but for the same cost of a decedent pump I can brew an addition 20-30gallons of beer...... I'll chose beer. Also it's one less thing to worry about(not worrying if I have enough ice).

With my tap water in the mid 70s in the summer there is no way, no how, that I can get to a 65 pitching temp. In the winter the pond pump gets used to get down to a 45F pitching temp.

I am on city water. If you have a well that is cold, sure you can get down to ale pitching temps.

3260
Ingredients / Re: Are 30 minute hops worth it?
« on: July 31, 2012, 10:46:35 AM »
I have been doin my Cream Ale with no hops in the boil. All go in at flameout with a long whirlpool. Of course I am doing it wrong and there should be no bitterness acording to some.

Works for Pelican, huh?

Inspired by Kiwanda Cream Ale for sure!

3261
Equipment and Software / Re: Immersion chiller question
« on: July 31, 2012, 08:04:43 AM »
I run the cooling water through as slow as possible. The point of a chiller is to remove heat through conduction into the coil and then from the coil to the water. With this contact time is good; the longer you have the wort in contact with the coil and the coil in contact with the water (not total volume, but one specific amount eg: quart A of total) the more heat you will remove. This work till you hit you ground water temp, well close to it.

Two batches ago(middle to end of June) it took me 21 gallons to cool 6gallons of wort to pitching temp using my 50' 3/8 coil. I did not measure my ground water temp, but I can say I use city water and we were in the middle of a heat wave (over 90 for 3 or more consecutive days). Total time was between 30-45 minutes most of which was going from 85-70.

Running slow will minimize the water used.
Running fast will minimize the time. Read my post.

Since water is cheap, I choose to minimize my time.

BTW - the water pump in you car pumps more fluid at higher RPM's, which along with the increased ram air flow through the radiator, keeps your engine from having a thermal incident. Which is a good thing.

3262
Ingredients / Re: Are 30 minute hops worth it?
« on: July 31, 2012, 06:14:27 AM »
The great thing about brewing: There's no "wrong" way to do it.
The awful thing about brewing: There's no "wrong" way to do it.

Do people use 30min additions to make good beer? Sure. There are lots of ways to make good beer. Is the beer good because of the 30min hop addition? I doubt it. In a blind tasting between a beer with a 30min and a 20min hop addition, all other things equal, I doubt most people could tell the difference.

I think you should pick a method that works for you and stick to it so you can get consistent results.

I agree with this.

Then there are the ones that say that 30 is bad because you don't get much bitterness, then sing the praises of all additions 20 min on. I know you get more flavor, but the utilization is even less.

I have been doin my Cream Ale with no hops in the boil. All go in at flameout with a long whirlpool. Of course I am doing it wrong and there should be no bitterness acording to some.

3263
Equipment and Software / Re: Immersion chiller question
« on: July 30, 2012, 08:15:22 PM »
Not much to go on as to specifics.

The important parameters are.
1. Area of the chiller. Bigger diameter and longer length are better as you chill across the metal area in contact.
2. Temperature differential of the wort and chilling water. You want the water as cold as possible.
3. Flow rate of the water. If you shut the water off it will take longer to chill. Don't slow it down. If you go wide open you maximize #2 above.
4. Keep the wort moving, so it will not stratify. If you have a layer of cold wort around the chiller, you are minimizing #2 above.
5. You can't chill any lower than the input water.

I have a 50 ft 1/2 in chiller. Wort is recirculated with my March pump so that it whirlpools around the chiller. Running the cooling water wide open I can chill a 10 gallon batch to 65 in a little less than 15 min in the winter when the tap water is cold. In the summer I can get to 100F fairly quick, but need to use an ice bath and pond pump if the tap water is >70F.

3264
Kegging and Bottling / Re: NO FLOW
« on: July 30, 2012, 08:02:37 PM »
When I went back and looked at my notes I did a substantial amount of dryhopping and for some f&*kin reason I didn't use a bag.  I just threw them all in there for 10 days.  Everytime I have pulled the dip tube there were hop remnants.   Thanks for all the feedback guys!

You might try and rack to another keg after dropping the pressure down for a few days. Rack cold. I use a 5 gallon nylon paint strainer bag over my racking cane. You can find those at the paint section at the big box store, and those are cheap.

3265
All Grain Brewing / Re: Do lagers take longer to start?
« on: July 30, 2012, 06:09:01 PM »
Yes, everything happens more slowly at lower (lager) temperatures

not true. they tend to vanish faster for me 8)

+1 After the proper amount of time lagering, time is inverted.

3266
Ingredients / Re: Are 30 minute hops worth it?
« on: July 30, 2012, 11:54:31 AM »
Depends on the beer, and what you are trying to do. 30 Minute additions are said to give the most glycoside development from the polyphenols. These aid mouthfell and flavor. The bitterness utilization is still fairly high, and the flavor is said to still be there.

If you look at some of the recipes from Vinnie Cilurzo and Matt Bryndilson, those use additions at 30 minutes. Those are some good beers.

Look at the latest Zymurgy and you will see recipes that that use hops at 60 and 0, and the ones that use hops all the way through.

I think late hops are fine, but the production breweries will use additions at flameout and then whirlpool for best flavor and combine that with dry hopping for aroma.

3267
Kegging and Bottling / Re: NO FLOW
« on: July 30, 2012, 09:27:59 AM »
I had a similar problem some time back. Look at the post and poppet when those are out. The bottom side might be packed full of hop particles. If you see anything, remove the poppet, clean it all out, sanitize, reassemble.

Now the beer is filtered through a nylon mesh bag when racking to keep the hop particles out.


3268
All Grain Brewing / Re: stout water question
« on: July 30, 2012, 08:13:05 AM »
Get your pH in your mash right as Denny mentioned. 5.2-5.5 is subjective to your tastes. Since you are doing the cold steep option its at your discretion with the water. One option would be to add your calcium chloride/sulfate to the mash to get your 50 ppm of calcium and sulfate to chloride ratio then add salts to the kettle to get some of the taste you want if you really want that bite that say a London water has.

FWIW I do the cold steep option with my sweet stout and just add calcium chloride and a little gypsum to the mash, and a little more to the kettle to achieve about 50 ppm calcium.
London water is relatively low in SO4 at 34 ppm, and Cl is at 32 ppm. The times I have toured Fullers brewery, you do see the bags of gypsum by the HLT, and they say that they Burtonize the water. To what level was beyond the guides knowledge.

3269
All Grain Brewing / Re: Do lagers take longer to start?
« on: July 30, 2012, 08:09:09 AM »
They take longer to start, and to finish up at FG.

3270
Beer Travel / Re: Best store in San Francisco to buy beer?
« on: July 28, 2012, 04:43:54 AM »
City Beer Store is a good bet.  http://www.citybeerstore.com/

That is true, you can have a draft beer, or drink a bottle off the shelf for $1 over the price.

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