Messages

3406

The Pub / Re: The Craft Beer Quiz

« on: March 27, 2015, 03:17:19 PM »

See how well you know your stuff with the 2015 Craft Beer Quiz:

http://www.beersyndicate.com/blog/the-craft-beer-quiz-how-well-do-you-know-your-craft/ 

I know we've got a few (maybe more than a few) beer gurus on this board who will ace this quiz blindfolded.

Missed a couple of slogans.g

Maybe they should have included "bottling innovation"

That one I would have aced.

3407

The Pub / Re: The Craft Beer Quiz

« on: March 27, 2015, 02:51:37 PM »

See how well you know your stuff with the 2015 Craft Beer Quiz:

http://www.beersyndicate.com/blog/the-craft-beer-quiz-how-well-do-you-know-your-craft/ 

I know we've got a few (maybe more than a few) beer gurus on this board who will ace this quiz blindfolded.

Missed a couple of slogans.

3408

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: continental vs domestic malt flavors

« on: March 27, 2015, 02:39:28 PM »

Perhaps a mash using adjuncts or undermodified malts will convert better if the fully modified malts are more fully modified than the less fully modified malts?

Sounds sort of silly, but that's how I take it. Explains why maltsters like Briess are dropping 6 row altogether.

Six row is not being planted as much as it was, some 2 row varieties  in NA now have a DP of 160 Lintner, and a higher extract. So six row's advantages have gone away.

3409

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Eliminating oxidation flaw in kegged beer

« on: March 27, 2015, 11:53:05 AM »

Been doing that for a long time. Other things that are antioxidants are cinnamon and coriander.

3410

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: continental vs domestic malt flavors

« on: March 27, 2015, 11:51:27 AM »

Since you bring it up, I've been wondering about the difference in modification between continental and "domestic" (I'm on the continent, so technically, they're domestic to me) malts. The article below makes the claim that continental malts are less modified. It seems like a pretty general statement to me. Anybody have any idea if there is any merit to the claim?
http://beerandbrewing.com/VMvilisAAKGj51nr/article/belgian-beer-youre-probably-doing-it-wrong

(Besides that, I thought it was a great article)

Less modified when compared to American malts, but still fully modified. If you look at the Kohlbach index (S/T ratio), even the floor malted Moravian Malt that Weyermann has is 38.4, while anything at or over 38 is fully modified. American malts can be close to 50.

Barley variety and the climate have big influences on the final product.

3411

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Eliminating oxidation flaw in kegged beer

« on: March 27, 2015, 11:40:15 AM »

From something I picked up on the old HBD back in the late 90s early 2000s timeframe, as to mix a campden tablet into the mash. The SO2 is an antioxidant that inhibits the oxidation of the malt compounds that lead to stalling. Any remaining SO2 is driven off in the boil.

3412

Beer Recipes / Re: Stone releases official Levitation Ale recipe

« on: March 26, 2015, 09:15:48 PM »

They may use whirlpool additions at the brewery, however the book says to add flameout hops, chill to 72 ASAP.

Rattlesnake I may just try a straight clone. That still doesn't answer why the discrepancy though…unless Stone overstates their IBU values?

One might ask Stone if that is their estimate or a lab measurement. They have a lab, it measured the IBU numbers for Steeles IPA book.

3413

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Yup I'm still around. Or should this be a poll?

« on: March 26, 2015, 11:40:14 AM »

Good to see some of the other "vintage" forum members active again.

3414

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Evaporation Rate

« on: March 26, 2015, 11:37:05 AM »

Commercial brewers have a pretty vigorous boils from the ones I have seen. The 100 bbl system at Sierra Nevada Chico looked like the volcano. The boil off rate is down around 5% as they have a small stack for the vapors to escape.

3415

Ingredients / Re: Longer boil, darker color?

« on: March 26, 2015, 11:32:14 AM »

Isn't Golden Promise a cultivar? Like Maris Otter? If so, what has the cultivar that they use have to do with how long it's kilned or stewed or toasted?

Another way they get their beer darker is by using EBC instead of SRM.

GP is a British malt variety just like Maris Otter, Pearl, Optic and so on. The GP we get is from Simpsons at 2 L and Fawcett at 3.5 L. The Fawcett is kilned longer/higher temp. 

Some have speculated on the British homebrew forums that TTL may be made with crystal malt that was made from GP green malt. I have no idea if that is true, but is a possibility.

"Another way they get their beer darker is by using EBC instead of SRM." They also save energy by boiling in Celsius. 

3416

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Clear Beer!

« on: March 26, 2015, 01:40:29 AM »

That is nice, Amanda. How is it?

Non-beer-judge answer? Damn tasty.

That is all that one needs to know!

3417

All Grain Brewing / Re: Decoction - The Toast Test

« on: March 26, 2015, 01:37:57 AM »

Check out these videos by Kai Troester, check out the decoction appearance. Much to be learned.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_V1zt0mW084
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I5u_nJhMD4w
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6VcZRVw2k_o

3418

All Grain Brewing / Re: Decoction - The Toast Test

« on: March 26, 2015, 01:29:48 AM »

I'm not making claims nor am I speaking from a position of authority.  I said it was conceivable (Able to be grasped mentally though perhaps not in reality).

How much liquid do you purposefully place in your decoction when using the strainer?

Are you boiling on a stove top or a gas flame.  Depending on the pot type, an electric element would create hot spots at a temperature capable of caramelization.  I know it does when I boil down a volume of wort and end up with spots of charred/caramelized material (A thin stainless pot.)

I have read up to 1/3 liquid and 2/3 grains. I eyeball it. Pulling with the strainer you don't get enough liquid and it can be a b**** to stir. With the right amount of liquid it can be stirred before it loosens up at high temperature. Too little liquid and you can scorch a decoction - not recommended.

Lately the decoctions have been on a gas stove, and in a 5 gallon Revere Ware pot - copper clad bottom. Stirred, no scorching or deposits on the bottom.

3419

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Clear Beer!

« on: March 26, 2015, 01:21:58 AM »

That is nice, Amanda. How is it?

3420

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: try at batch sparging

« on: March 26, 2015, 01:20:54 AM »

Well, I did a batch sparge of a Janet's Brown on Ale on Sunday, and a Big American BW on Tuesday. Both were 10 gallon batches.

I think Batch sparging can save time, but around 15 minutes for a 10 gallon batch of a reasonable gravity beer - the heating of the wort is the critical path. On Sunday most everything went to script, and it was about 4.5 hours, and I left the system in place once cleaned as I was brewing again soon. My previous fly sparge record was 4.5 hour for a 1.038 bitter, but there was less to heat up and so on, and that day included clean up and put away.

The BW was more involved and the day was longer. Had a few problems with hitting temps, so had to add heat and so on. A long boil off to hit the target, but it was not a bad day, and the beer should be good. The 70 qt. cooler let me mash 42 lbs, so I hit a little higher gravity than with the keggle with false bottom mash tun.

Having done both, I can see why people like one or the other. It comes down to what you are comfortable with, your equipment, and what works.

Guys in the club make good beer on many systems, so it is the brewer/brewster and how they make the system work for them.