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Messages - hopfenundmalz

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3586
Ingredients / Re: Azacca Single hop IPA tasting notes
« on: April 22, 2014, 04:46:24 AM »
You have enough sulfate, so the bitterness should pop.

3587
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Another Starter Question
« on: April 21, 2014, 07:36:40 PM »
The young guy I judged Cat 10 last Sat was from a large well known brewery in Chicago. He said the Cascade they get is super ark.atic coated to what we get. Not saying what we get is bad, but the big brewers take the Prime Cuts.

3588
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Another Starter Question
« on: April 21, 2014, 04:15:06 PM »
Ive heard this too. Apparently the people who drop thousands of dollars get preference over those of us who only spend hundreds.
They also can reject a shipment if it does not meet specs laid out by the brewery. Large breweries run tests on the malt shipment. Where do the rejects go?

Hops? If you have read enough about the hops farmers, many of them have relationships with brewers that go to Yakima, inspect and smell the hops, and select the samples that represent the specific fields. I read once that a hop farmer said that the same brewer always selected Cascade from the same field in blind selections.

In many ways Homebrewers are the bottom feeders in the supply chain.

3589
I pitched it in 1.020 wort last night. I'll step it up a couple times, put in fridge, then get it going again a day or so before I brew, which is likely in about 2 weeks so it won't be kept long. I'm thinking that once it gets going I can taste it and see if it seems to have similar yeast flavors as the beer so I know there isn't a different bottling strain. If I have doubts I might make a 1 gallon extract version to test it. Thanks everyone!
It is best to have the starter wort prepared and use the yeast sediment from 2-3 bottles. Lower ABV beers are generally what I use, but try to get the strain you are after in this case with a Spencer beer.

Some instructions.
http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter6-7.html

http://byo.com/barleywine-and-imperial-stout/item/1661-yeast-culturing-from-bottles-techniques

Lots of videos. I have not watched any of these so I can't say if they are good or bad.
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=mF7DLNjh0WM



Thanks for the links. I'm pretty confident that this beer has primary yeast in bottle. I also feel its a good candidate because I'm getting the beer fresh and its not a super high abv, especially for a Trappist. I have a feeling this yeast is not stressed. I really want to use this strain because I am planning on making this beer with 2 friends of mine who used to be monks at St. Joseph's where this is made. I got them into brewing recently and I am going to make this with them at my house to show them what AG entails.
My remaining question is at what point in the process can I stop and put in the fridge for a couple weeks before using?
Your question does not have a clear answer. The batch size and gravity will determine the pitch rate,which will determine the starter size. You don't know the viability of the bottled yeast. My advice is to make a big starter and use that as soon as possible.
Also,
As soon as possible isn't so soon, hence the question. Can this be saved for a couple weeks.
hopfenundmalz, I noticed I used the phrase "hence the question" which when I read it on the post sounds a bit rude. I wasn't meaning to be and I appreciate all the feedback you gave me.

Hey, I didn't even notice that it could have been rude. No problem.

Good luck on harvesting the yeast. Let us know how it turns out.

3590
Equipment and Software / Re: GIve Up on ProMash??
« on: April 20, 2014, 08:09:04 PM »
You should update your database even with Beersmith/BeerAlchemy/BeerBananas/etc.  Hops AA% vary by year and farm.  Grain color and extract vary not only by brand but per lot... you can check countrymalt.com to get an actual lot analysis for you sack. 

Brewing software isn't magic and too many people don't understand what it's doing for their system/process/ingredients and end up way off the mark.
+1. Shiny bells and whistles often make people think it is "better".

3591
It is best to have the starter wort prepared and use the yeast sediment from 2-3 bottles. Lower ABV beers are generally what I use, but try to get the strain you are after in this case with a Spencer beer.

Some instructions.
http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter6-7.html

http://byo.com/barleywine-and-imperial-stout/item/1661-yeast-culturing-from-bottles-techniques

Lots of videos. I have not watched any of these so I can't say if they are good or bad.
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=mF7DLNjh0WM



Thanks for the links. I'm pretty confident that this beer has primary yeast in bottle. I also feel its a good candidate because I'm getting the beer fresh and its not a super high abv, especially for a Trappist. I have a feeling this yeast is not stressed. I really want to use this strain because I am planning on making this beer with 2 friends of mine who used to be monks at St. Joseph's where this is made. I got them into brewing recently and I am going to make this with them at my house to show them what AG entails.
My remaining question is at what point in the process can I stop and put in the fridge for a couple weeks before using?
Your question does not have a clear answer. The batch size and gravity will determine the pitch rate,which will determine the starter size. You don't know the viability of the bottled yeast. My advice is to make a big starter and use that as soon as possible.

3592
Equipment and Software / Re: GIve Up on ProMash??
« on: April 20, 2014, 07:29:08 PM »
Oooold thread I know, but I still use Promash, runs on Win 98, XP and 7 okay.  I do not mind manually updating the databases as they as customized to use the ingredients my wife and I use to brew.

Sometimes use SUDS, too.
I used Suds a long time ago, replaced with Promash and see no reason to change.

3593
I have a hard time believing that a brewery that only produces one type of beer would have more then 1 type of yeast on hand.  A brewery with a variety of brews at any given time seems more likely to use a bottling yeast with some of their more finicky strains.

That being said, put 1/2 inch of the beer from the bottom into 100mls of 1.020 wort and see what grows!
In the USA. Many of the beers have the house strain, and Bells is my go to.

Many of the European breweries select a stable strain for bottling.

3594
It is best to have the starter wort prepared and use the yeast sediment from 2-3 bottles. Lower ABV beers are generally what I use, but try to get the strain you are after in this case with a Spencer beer.

Some instructions.
http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter6-7.html

http://byo.com/barleywine-and-imperial-stout/item/1661-yeast-culturing-from-bottles-techniques

Lots of videos. I have not watched any of these so I can't say if they are good or bad.
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=mF7DLNjh0WM



3595
All Grain Brewing / Re: First time doing a true lager
« on: April 18, 2014, 06:00:54 PM »
Hah, while I absolutely understand where you are coming from being results driven, I do enjoy the science part of it too :)

Well wouldn't the maximum be defined as the current o2 concentration on the planet? You can't get more than that without using pure 02, correct?

Air is about 20% oxygen,  so 20 parts per hundred, which is way more that 12 parts per million.
What dissolves into the wort is another thing entirely, Jim.

3596
Pimp My System / Re: Old Soda Machine Conversion to a Kegerator
« on: April 18, 2014, 06:42:38 AM »
Nice modification.

3597
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: NHC Seattle
« on: April 17, 2014, 07:17:25 PM »
Title says NHC Seattle. That was a good one in 2012, had a great time. <I kid>

3598
Ingredients / Re: Kolbach of Weyermann Malts
« on: April 17, 2014, 03:29:17 PM »
Correct me if I'm wrong. Don't some german breweries still malt their own? If so, perhaps THEY benefit from a protein rest with their malt?
I know that Spezial and Schlenkerla malt their barley. Other than that I don't know who would.

Anyone with more info?

3599
All Grain Brewing / Re: First time doing a true lager
« on: April 17, 2014, 03:26:31 PM »
I read I can't remember where, that lagers require an optimal concentration that only pure o2 can provide.

The word require can be subjective in the brewing world
Most lager yeast benefit from more O2. Not required, but the yeast will thank you.

3600
All Grain Brewing / Re: First time doing a true lager
« on: April 17, 2014, 09:29:01 AM »
Pitch a lot of yeast, what Mrmalty or another calculator says. I pitch lower than fermentation temp and let it rise to the 48-50F target and maintain that. When 1-2 Plato above final, I do the D-rest, then if the sample is free of diacetyl, crash it to lagering temperature, -1C.

With big pitches, nutrients in the boil, and plenty of O2 I am crashing at about day 7 or before for a 1.050 + lager.

I concur my lagers follow close to that timeline as well.

A 1.085 Doppelbock will take around 9 days, maybe 10.

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