« on: August 16, 2013, 09:43:38 AM »
So, OP, is it corn or is it butter? Different things.good point, we assumed it was buttery=diacetyl.
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Keep it cool in the 60s. The diacetyl will be 100% gone in the next week or two.Popcorn has only a little corn flavor, buttered popcorn has the diacetyl flavor you are getting.
Sulfate levels lowering pH.You are right that darker roasted malts will lower pH in a bigger way, but crystal malts do that as well, but to a lesser extent. Martin's recent posting on using baking soda allows for using it especially in RO water (which has next to no sodium) to correct pH. I use it in APAs and AIPAs where high sulfate levels can lower pH to around 5.2 in my case. I use baking soda to raise pH back to 5.3 -5.4. Martin even mentioned that a low/moderate amount can be beneficial to beer, but to be sure to keep sodium levels under 50 ppm, which is not a problem for most beers with RO water.No don't add any acid malt - it'll lower your pH more. What profile are you using ? 5.2 is low for that style (and most others). Since you are using RO I would use the software to add baking soda to get your pH up to 5.3 or 5.4. That'll put you at a more desireable pH.
I am pretty sure I was using the Pale Ale profile, but I am not sure because I downloaded it on a different computer. I guess I am a little surprised that I would be too low on the pH with this recipe. I was under the impression that it was very difficult to get too low without having a higher proportion of roasted malts. Is this not accurate?+1 to all of what Mort said. Bru'nWater takes the guesswork out.
So after leaving tab 1 and 2 blank in BrunWater (because I am using RO), and entering in my additions of gypsum and calcium chloride in tab 3 (Water Adjustment), and inputting my recipe in Mash Acidification it gives an estimated pH of 5.2. So does that mean I should leave it be at that point? No need to add the acidulated malt right?
sounds right. Just to check did you set the dilution % to 100 and the dilution water to RO?
Yes I did add that part in, I should have mentioned that originally.
Also, did you enter the correct mash and sparge water volumes?
I made an immersion chiller from 50' of copper coil for just under $50. In the spring, when the tap water was colder, it got 6G of wort to 80*F in five minutes then below 70 after another 30 minutes. It takes an hour now but is still less of a hassle on brew day than an ice bath. I also made it for the same price or below what one would pay for an IC with only 25' of copper. There are plenty of instructions on the interwebs.If you are handy, this is the way to go.
The 7 gallon on Blichmann's web site has a flat lid.1) Can you not get extension legs?
2) Can it be pressurized to allow for racking at that height?
Yes and yes. Whichever you choose.
I've never seen the flat lid - this may be an older model.
Either way, these things are BADASS.
Read Mitch Steele's NHC presentation this year. "Enjoy by IPA" has only FWH, whirlpool, and dry hops.Very interesting recipe. I can't wait to hear the tasting notes. Is the bitterness from the hops all "perceived" in the aroma or is there some true bitter flavor on the tongue?
There have been several threads on the Northern brewer forums on hop-stand only brews. From what I've heard, the bitterness is up there, but tends to be smoother than if you used a true 60-minute boiled addition. Since isomerization happens above 185F, there is still quite a bit of IBU's generated from a hot hop stand, just not as much as if you were at full boil. My experience say's it's roughly equal to an addition 1/3 the length of a hop stand, but others find that 1/2 the time is closer. I think a lot of that will depend on your individual system.
Thanks for the information. I am interested in smoothing out the bitterness of the bittering charge. I have heard suggestions that first wort hopping has a similar effect. It seems a little counterintuitive that FWHing and a post boil hop stand would have similar outcomes considering the very different mechanics at play.
I have also thought about mash hopping (as suggested at my LHBS) but don't know how this variable might also play with bitterness. This a cool part of homebrewing that we are afforded the ability to do so many different things that might not be possible at large scales. Thanks again.
I do a hop stand/whirlpool beer where I add all the hops at flame out. My point was that the temp drop would be well below 185F before the 90 min. was reached ,so no more isomrization at that point.
How is the bitterness in the beers when you do this? Do you have a guesstimate of ibus?
How do you plan on keeping above 185F for 90 minutes? My system drops to just over that in 45 min. for 10 gallons during the winter in the garage. I can maintain temps with the fire, but haven't done that yet.
I thought he was estimating a 90 min hopstand because of the no-chill method...
At least I was hoping this was the case. I'd love to see more info on how no-chill affects hoppy beers.
Seems like a great way to cut a lot of time out of my brewday, but before I go buying a no-chill container, I'd like to know how it affects break/clarity, hop utilization/aroma, etc.
I agree with Denny. Some of the dinners have been excellent start to finish. This may have a confluence of the concept and the hotel's ability to execute the concept for 2000.Sounds disappointing but good to know the award dinner should probably be skipped in the future.
I would definitely not skip it in the future. I missed NHC this year, but in the previous ones I've been to Sean's dinners have been one of the highpoints. As far as I can tell, this year was an anomaly.
The male flowers are not from pollination. Sometimes it happens.Yep, those are male flowers in with the female flowers.
Seeds are in the female cones. You usually don't have seeds in whole cone hops. I have seen a lot in British, some in US, and was astonished when I saw some floating in the boil using German hops. The Germans feel that they do not want seeds as that is a sign of low quality hops.
Edit, the seeds in the hop cone are the result of pollination with a male hop. You usually don't know what the male was, so if you plant the seeds the result will be odds less that shooting craps that something good results. That is why we get rhizomes to plant.
Ok, mine was planted this year from a rhizome... Is this a bad thing? And should it be taken out?
I'm sure how it would have gotten pollinated here.