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Messages - hopfenundmalz

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Beer Recipes / Re: Black IPA Questions
« on: August 18, 2013, 10:52:12 AM »
You probably know that you want the dehusked carafa III special to minimize roast/burnt flavor. Some like midnight wheat as it also is husk less.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Quick Beer?
« on: August 18, 2013, 06:42:19 AM »
I havne't had really good luck with gelatin for some reason.  I'm thinking I might use a two part fining agent like Superkleer.  The stuff reacts and drops fast, might strip a little flavor but with this beer that could be a good thing.  Freezing is tempting as well, I do want to get it good and cold before I send them the kegs.

I figure I'll just tell him to call it "homebrew", that might get people to drink it more than calling it a cream ale.

I thought about a wheat beer, but figured this would be more universally appealing.
Some of the local places love BioFine Clear.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Storing beer in a corny
« on: August 18, 2013, 06:08:52 AM »
When one gets really geeky about minimizing O2, one can fill a keg with sanitizer solution so that all the O2 is displaced. Then push the sanitizer out with CO2, so that you have a keg full of CO2. Then one can rack into the keg via the liquid out post. Also make sure the racking cane and tubing is full of beer, not air when you start, and that can be done by hooking up to a second empty keg until beer is flowing.

Tedious, but effective.

All Grain Brewing / Re: anyone add zinc sulfate / zinc chloride to wort?
« on: August 17, 2013, 02:03:16 PM »
I use some zinc, half a diet tab for 10 gallons. If you look at some of the past presentations by the yeast experts at the NHC, they talk about the benefits of zinc.

Our lager fermentation a are healthy, the D- rest is done a 6 to 7 days in, and then start to cool it down.

It is one of those things we do. Sometimes we forget, and the beer comes out fine. Don't have any detailed notes as if those go longer in primary phase.

I may stop using the zinc tabs, as the Wyeast nutrient blend has zinc in the ingredient list.

Beer Recipes / Re: The Gargoyle
« on: August 17, 2013, 08:15:42 AM »
Simcoe is a high oil hop which means that the Simcoe aroma will tend to obliterate the Mosaic aroma unless Mosaic is also high oil.  If Mosaic isn't a high oil hop, the amount of Mosaic relative to Simcoe should be increased in the dry hop and possibly for 0 minute too.

Mosaic is just as oily as Simcoe, if not more so. It's like a super Simcoe with some extra fruitiness. It's a lot like crack, actually. *twitches* Pardon me while I go pour a brew...
Mosaic is a cross of Simcoe and Nugget. I sag it is like Simcoe with much less cat pee.

So, OP, is it corn or is it butter?  Different things.
good point, we assumed it was buttery=diacetyl.

Keep it cool in the 60s.  The diacetyl will be 100% gone in the next week or two.
Popcorn has only a little corn flavor, buttered popcorn has the diacetyl flavor you are getting.

All Grain Brewing / Re: 1st time messing with water chemistry
« on: August 15, 2013, 06:26:33 PM »
No don't add any acid malt - it'll lower your pH more.  What profile are you using ?  5.2 is low for that style (and most others). Since you are using RO I would use the software to add baking soda to get your pH up to 5.3 or 5.4. That'll put you at a more desireable pH.

I am pretty sure I was using the Pale Ale profile, but I am not sure because I downloaded it on a different computer. I guess I am a little surprised that I would be too low on the pH with this recipe. I was under the impression that it was very difficult to get too low without having a higher proportion of roasted malts. Is this not accurate?

+1 to all of what Mort said. Bru'nWater takes the guesswork out.

So after leaving tab 1 and 2 blank in BrunWater (because I am using RO), and entering in my additions of gypsum and calcium chloride in tab 3 (Water Adjustment), and inputting my recipe in Mash Acidification it gives an estimated pH of 5.2. So does that mean I should leave it be at that point? No need to add the acidulated malt right?

sounds right. Just to check did you set the dilution % to 100 and the dilution water to RO?

Yes I did add that part in, I should have mentioned that originally.
You are right that darker roasted malts will lower pH in a bigger way, but crystal malts do that as well, but to a lesser extent. Martin's recent posting on using baking soda allows for using it especially in RO water (which has next to no sodium) to correct pH. I use it in APAs and AIPAs  where high sulfate levels can lower pH to around 5.2 in my case. I use baking soda to raise pH back to 5.3 -5.4.  Martin even mentioned that a low/moderate amount can be beneficial to beer, but to be sure to keep sodium levels under 50 ppm, which is not a problem for most beers with RO water.
  Also, did you enter the correct mash and sparge water volumes?
Sulfate levels lowering pH.???
Ca from gypsum, yes.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Cooling my all grain wort
« on: August 15, 2013, 06:18:24 PM »
I made an immersion chiller from 50' of copper coil for just under $50.  In the spring, when the tap water was colder, it got 6G of wort to 80*F in five minutes then below 70 after another 30 minutes.  It takes an hour now but is still less of a hassle on brew day than an ice bath.  I also made it for the same price or below what one would pay for an IC with only 25' of copper.  There are plenty of instructions on the interwebs.
If you are handy, this is the way to go.

Equipment and Software / Re: Has anybody used one of these?
« on: August 14, 2013, 06:18:13 AM »
1) Can you not get extension legs?

2) Can it be pressurized to allow for racking at that height?

Yes and yes. Whichever you choose.

I've never seen the flat lid - this may be an older model.

Either way, these things are BADASS.
The 7 gallon on Blichmann's web site has a flat lid.

Equipment and Software / Re: Has anybody used one of these?
« on: August 14, 2013, 05:22:39 AM »
I had not seen a flat lid on a Blichmann, but on the web site it looks like that is the 7 gallon one.

The 14.5 I have works very well. Had it on a makeshift platform for years, but used a discount to buy leg extensions and casters, now I can go wherever, out of the way. It can take up to 3 PSI, so that would push the beer up 7 ft. high.

A 7 could be placed on a shelf or a table, so you could dump trub, harvest yeast, and rack out of it.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Experience with Saflager 34/70?
« on: August 13, 2013, 04:23:26 PM »
Only a little experience and the beer was a good tasting German lager.

Often said to be the same as wlp830 or Wyeast 2124.

Beer Recipes / Re: Hopstand & Dry Hop IPA
« on: August 13, 2013, 01:35:49 PM »

Very interesting recipe. I can't wait to hear the tasting notes. Is the bitterness from the hops all "perceived" in the aroma or is there some true bitter flavor on the tongue?

There have been several threads on the Northern brewer forums on hop-stand only brews. From what I've heard, the bitterness is up there, but tends to be smoother than if you used a true 60-minute boiled addition. Since isomerization happens above 185F, there is still quite a bit of IBU's generated from a hot hop stand, just not as much as if you were at full boil. My experience say's it's roughly equal to an addition 1/3 the length of a hop stand, but others find that 1/2 the time is closer. I think a lot of that will depend on your individual system.
Read Mitch Steele's NHC presentation this year. "Enjoy by IPA" has only FWH, whirlpool, and dry hops.
Thanks for the information. I am interested in smoothing out the bitterness of the bittering charge. I have heard suggestions that first wort hopping has a similar effect. It seems a little counterintuitive that FWHing and a post boil hop stand would have similar outcomes considering the very different mechanics at play. 

I have also thought about mash hopping (as suggested at my LHBS) but don't know how this variable might also play with bitterness.  This a cool part of homebrewing that we are afforded the ability to do so many different things that might not be possible at large scales.  Thanks again.

Beer Recipes / Re: Hopstand & Dry Hop IPA
« on: August 13, 2013, 10:08:58 AM »

I do a hop stand/whirlpool beer where I add all the hops at flame out. My point was that the temp drop would be well below 185F before the 90 min. was reached ,so no more isomrization at that point.

How is the bitterness in the beers when you do this? Do you have a guesstimate of ibus?

The beer is Cream Ale, and it is a knockoff of Pelican Pubs Kiwanda Cream Ale, and all of the hops go in after flame out. They claim 25 IBUs.

For 10 gallons of a 1.050 beer, I have estimated 13% extraction. I you look at the data from Tinseth, this is roughly an 18 minute addition, I think I have used 15 minutes as the whirlpool with a March pump is not as vigorous as at a commercial brewery. The hops I have used are Mt Hood at 4.8% and 8 Oz for 10 gallons, and it is estimated to be about 25 IBU. I like the results.

I have thought of doing an ultimate late addition IPA using high AA hops at flameout. This might be an ispiration. 

Beer Recipes / Re: Hopstand & Dry Hop IPA
« on: August 13, 2013, 06:02:47 AM »
How do you plan on keeping above 185F for 90 minutes? My system drops to just over that in 45 min. for 10 gallons during the winter in the garage. I can maintain temps with the fire, but haven't done that yet.

I thought he was estimating a 90 min hopstand because of the no-chill method...

At least I was hoping this was the case. I'd love to see more info on how no-chill affects hoppy beers.

Seems like a great way to cut a lot of time out of my brewday, but before I go buying a no-chill container, I'd like to know how it affects break/clarity, hop utilization/aroma, etc.

I do a hop stand/whirlpool beer where I add all the hops at flame out. My point was that the temp drop would be well below 185F before the 90 min. was reached ,so no more isomrization at that point.

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