For some small beers that I want more esters in, I just pump into the fermenter. Medium gravity, the mix stir, high gravity and lagers get the O2.
This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
If you do it at 80%, the yeast will finish the sugars and be active to reduce the VDKs. The increased activity will help scrub off sulfur. Then you can crash down to cold temps to lager and drop out the haze and yeast. The classic profile has a slow cooling to keep the yeast working, as they will slowly reduce the VDKs at low temperature.good info from everyone. seems like we are all on the same page. it just seemed odd to me to hear people do a d-rest after 2 weeks at 50F...seems all activity would be done and there would be nothing gained from doing a d-rest then (considering a normal lager range around 1.050-055). maybe for bigger beers over 1.060 there would still be fermentation activity near the 2 week mark - i just haven't done a lager that big.
As long as you don't remove the yeast from the beer, it doesn't matter if all activity has ended. Warming the beer for the d rest will make it active again.
ok good to know. but then whats the difference in doing a d-rest at 80-85% attenuation , vs. 99-100% attenuation ? any benefit of one over the other
http://www.bjcp.org/docs/2008_stylebook.pdfGood show on the win.
Category 14 covers all of the Pale Ales
14A - English IPA
14B - American IPA
14C - Imperial IPA
I entered in the 14C category. I think they grouped the winners from each subcategory to come up with an overall category winner.
yes, I remember that. "I haven't/just brewed this and I know it is going to be really good."Started in '91 and was taught by one of my cousins, who had been brewing for a while, all grain. So I started with all grain. Speaking of pre-internet, who remembers "The Cat's Meow"? I still have copy on one of my brew book shelves.Wow, there's a flashback!
HAH, fixed it. Flickr doesn't make it easy though.i used to do the trial and error method, and once I know the rough amount needed, did that amount each year. This year I just bittered with magnum, as that was pragmatic.
Back to green hops..... is there a DIY to get a ballpark bittering power of your home grown? Or is it pure trial and error....?