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Messages - richardt

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31
Made a pale ale with Amarillo and summit. First time crushing my own grain, too. Hit all my numbers, very happy about that.

That sounds really tasty.

32
The Pub / Re: "Homebrewers" (insert eyeroll)
« on: July 16, 2012, 01:52:42 PM »
I agree!  I'd totally be all over that beer.

33
The Pub / Re: "Homebrewers" (insert eyeroll)
« on: July 16, 2012, 01:32:48 PM »
Whenever I find myself taken aback or getting defensive by what is being said, I try to remember the adage:  "separate the message from the messenger."  Don't focus on WHO is saying it, or HOW they're saying it; instead, focus on WHAT is being said.  Sadly, some people just do rub others the wrong way, and they may lack the proper use of tact and tone when asking questions or discussing their viewpoints.

Still, it is wise to treat everyone with politeness, even those who are rude to you--not because they are nice, but because you are.  Besides, if your beer is good (and everyone here says it is)--that pretty much speaks for itself, doesn't it?

 

34
Equipment and Software / Re: Dear White Labs
« on: July 15, 2012, 07:58:41 AM »
Red Solo cup upside down over the hole in the lid = cheap airlock that keeps dust/contaminants out of the fermentor.

Proceed to party.

35
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: bu:gu help
« on: July 15, 2012, 07:56:02 AM »
It also depends on hnw quickly you can chill your wort once the boil ends.  Prolonged rest at high temps still allows some alpha acid isomerization to occur.  An example of this would be trying to chill a 5+ gallon BK in your sink or tub--it's going to take >30 minutes. 

I do 10 gallon batches and use a 50 ft copper IC to chill the wort; I find it gets down to ambient temps within 15-20 minutes.  Yet, through experience, I've found that I still need to keep the projected IBU's (using BeerSmith software) at the very low end of the range in order to end up with beer that is not overly bitter for the style.  YMMV.

36
Ignore the classic "water profiles" of famous brewing centers.  I know there's even a BJCP question about it on the written exam, but, as Martin and others have pointed out, the commercial brewers often treated their source water by boiling and/or other methods to get the ions in a more desirable range (usually much lower ppm for most ions).  Attempting to recreate the classic profiles often results in "Alka Seltzer" beers, as Gordon has pointed out here on this forum and in his book, "Brewing Better Beer."

Calcium is important (50-100 ppm).
Chloride and Sulfate levels and relative ratios are important from a "seasoning" standpoint.

Residual alkalinity is moderately important (see water panel discussion from recent AHA conference)--and there's some differences of opinion regarding that.
Mash and Kettle pH are important--opinions vary on how best to do this, but most agree 5.2-5.6 would be ideal for mash pH.  Again, see water panel discussion from recent AHA conference.

37
Agree with WY1272 (American Ale II).

I also like and recommend:
WY1056 (American Ale)
WY1450 (Denny's Favorite 50)

I have not yet tried but has good recs from others:
WY1332 (Northwest Ale)
WLP090 (San Diego Super Yeast)

38
Beer Recipes / Re: which puree for a *fruit* pale ale on brett?
« on: July 03, 2012, 10:13:34 AM »
Being made of plastic, it looks like that better bottle has been committed to the "wild" side.

39
Beer Recipes / Re: What makes a good Saison?
« on: July 02, 2012, 02:09:11 PM »
I'm a little burned out on saisons right now.
Some suggestions for newbies:
restrain the temps unless you really like phenols (peppery).  I prefer saisons that have esters (aroma and flavor) that are not overwhelmed by phenols.  I've encountered far too many excessively peppery examples--read the BJCP guidelines--yes, the pepper/spicy phenols is there, but balance/drinkability is key.  For example, most versions of St. Somewhere are too peppery for me--a full glass is too much "pepper" for me to find enjoyable; I find the beers to be unbalanced.  And I'm someone who puts a little pepper on almost everything I eat.

WY3711 is the easiest to use--fermentation proceeds quickly and does not get stuck.
Do not add more peppery spices -- the yeast gives you plenty of that. 
Instead, try floral, fruit, or citrusy spice additions to enhance the pleasant esters.
Homemade candied ginger, on the other hand, is a nice touch if used with a lot of restraint.
I suggest pouring off the water used to boil the ginger as it gets rid of the harshness.
Use RO water to help dissolve the sugar when candying the ginger.  Using a fine-mesh nylon hop bag, you can add the ginger for the last 10 minutes or so of the boil and then remove.

40
Equipment and Software / Re: Mash tun frustration
« on: June 27, 2012, 08:58:23 AM »
What batch size do you plan to brew?
A 5 gallon round Igloo or Rubbermaid will work as long as your batch size is under 5 gallons and/or your OG is not too high.
Grain bed compaction (and slow lautering) is an issue once your grain bed height exceeds the width.

I've used 10 gallon round Rubbermaid coolers--I've since made the switch to rectangular coolers.
I suggest you skip the "learning process" and go straight to the rectangular coolers.


41
Going Pro / Re: Some figures for opening a pub.
« on: June 26, 2012, 10:49:53 AM »
Plan for success. 

Space is going to be one of your biggest issues, IMO.
Just 6K sf?  You'll very likely need much more room than that in less than a year.
And that's just for brewing/tap room purposes.  You're also planning a restaurant and kitchen. 
Make sure you have room to build out or grow into more adjacent space.

Be sure to check out the "going pro" audio and presentations from NHC coming out within the next few weeks (AHA member only access) that address this issue as one of the biggest mistakes new brewers make.

42
Beer Recipes / Re: Two Belgian Blonde questions
« on: May 29, 2012, 12:03:43 PM »
I do recommend good quality hops, such as Czech Saaz, at 60 and 15 min.  There's not much to hide behind in a BBA made with pilsner malt, so quality matters.  Most specialty sugars tend to have some color contribution, so expect some darkening of your BBA to a more golden or even light amber color, as well as higher ABV and, perhaps, a drier finish.

43
Equipment and Software / Re: Peristaltic pumps, revisited
« on: May 28, 2012, 05:05:05 PM »
Pretty clever DIY.  Compression causes heat so while higher tubing compression makes the pump more efficient, it also causes more heating and softening/wear and tear on the tubing.
It is hard to tell from your pics, but I'm assuming you have a U-bend to the tubing.  If so, you'll need some sort of external clip or piece of plastic glued to the outer portion of the tubing (but not compressing the tubing) so it serves as an anchor.  You'll need two clamps, clips, or glued-on anchors and just enough tension that you have to stretch the tubing slightly when assembling it over the rollers when it is cold (since it loosens up when it warms up from warm wort and compression from the rollers.  Here's a pic to illustrate what I mean:


 I recommend the 360 peristaltic pump design it is more efficient and you only need one roller (but can use more).  This one below is actually designed by a home brewer for his HERMS.

check out these sites:
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/cake-pan-skateboard-wheel-bike-brakes-homemade-peristaltic-pump-279120/
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peristaltic_pump

44
Pimp My System / Re: New Brewstand being built
« on: May 28, 2012, 04:37:50 PM »
Is it a photo artifact or do you, in fact, have the MLT (cooler) shelf at a slight decline (perhaps to facilitate lautering)?  If so, then what's keeping a heavy cooler from sliding off into your HLT or BK?  There's not much friction between plastic and aluminum (or SS).

45
Pimp My System / Re: More Brewshed Ideas...
« on: May 28, 2012, 04:28:01 PM »
Agree with Tom--you can always use more refrigerator space.
One fermentation fridge for ales, one fermentation fridge for lagers or a different ale that is cold crashing/clarifying.  A third for storing multiple kegs.  A fourth under the bar for various bottles and sodas and water bottles, etc.  Perhaps a big walk in storage refrigerator for various barrel projects....

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