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Messages - philm63

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Yeast and Fermentation / Re: First Stir-plate Starter
« on: August 07, 2013, 04:46:38 PM »
I seem to remember there being a preferred pitch rate for a starter seeing as your goal was to grow a healthy batch of yeast, not make beer. Something like between 50 and 75 million cells/ml of starter wort, Does this sound about right?

I had recently thought of adding some run-off from my tun into my decanted starter to get the yeasties accustomed to their next meal - your method looks intriguing - I must try this...

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: First Stir-plate Starter
« on: August 07, 2013, 03:27:29 PM »
Wow klickitat jim; now THAT's a full flask!

I just crashed a 1.5L WLP300 in a 3L flask and I have to say; I kept it on the stir plate 48 hours and the marks in the flask indicate the highest it went above the 1.5L mark was about to the 1.55L mark! The action of the stir plate, if working properly and with proper ventilation (keep that foil loose!), will knock the krausen down before it can get out of hand so it would seem that yes, a 2L starter is possible in a 2L flask.

I've had a few go off like a volcano, but this was attributed to the fact I was intending on pitching the whole enchilada so I took it off the plate after about 12 or 14 hours and let it come to high-krausen, then pitched the contents.

So it would seem; if you are fermenting it out - crashing - then pitching, a starter can be just about the full volume of your flask with little to no risk of a blow-over.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: First Stir-plate Starter
« on: August 07, 2013, 01:55:30 PM »
For those slightly larger starters I got a 3L flask - normally my 2L is all I need but as soon as I start approaching 1.7L starter size, I'll switch over to the 3L - same stir bar and plate - works fine and plenty of room to grow if it is so inclined.

My 3L flask also has a slight bump in the middle of the bottom - still works OK but louder than my 2L.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: First Stir-plate Starter
« on: August 06, 2013, 05:09:48 PM »
After some experience, I just have faith that the starter will be done on the stirplate in about 48 hours.  Then I put it in the fridge for a couple days (or until I get around to brewing!), decant, and pitch cold.

+1  -  I've got a WLP300 on the plate as we type, been there 24 hours now and has 24 hours left - I'll always let it go 48 hours just to be sure all of the good attenuating cells have had a chance to floc. Then crash for a couple of days or until I'm ready to brew, but usually not much longer than a week, if I can help it.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Gelatin First Try
« on: August 06, 2013, 03:48:47 PM »
If you were to quantify the loss of hop impression due to clarification with gelatin, are we talking only a few percent, on average, or enough that we'd want to up our hop bill to compensate knowing we're going to gel this one...? If the difference is small enough (5 IBUs or less), would one even notice that small of a difference?

Ingredients / Re: The "Truth" About Commercial Beer.
« on: July 28, 2013, 06:57:46 AM »
Fears of GMO and HFCS are over hyped IMO.
The author makes a lot assumptions and alters information. A number of these things are used by your local craft breweries (and homebrewers). This person obviously doesn't understand brewing and is just trying to create a controversy.

Yeah, what they said. Oh, and the author has some problems with basic grammar, too. It's hard to read something that is supposed to inform when the writer is obviously an idio.. er uh, uninformed.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: clarification methods
« on: July 21, 2013, 06:33:52 AM »

After fermentation is complete incluiding diacetyl rest he removes all of the yeast from the fermenter and chill it to 32F for about 48 hours to create chill haze. Then he stop chilling and return naturally the beer to fermentation temperature (68F) and inmediately returns to 32F for another 24 or 48 hours to precipitate all the proteins and haze the beer created.

I'm curious to know if there are proteins (that are clumped together as a result of lowering the temperature) that could remain in suspension after a 48-hour crash at 32F that possibly could be "crashed again" in an attempt to complete the precipitation for clearer beer, or is one 48-hour period the best you're gonna get?

To the best of my knowledge, the chill-haze proteins will come together to form larger particles when cold-crashing, and as already mentioned by hopfenundmalz; larger particles drop faster thus it is my understanding that if you crash long enough (48-hours seems to be the norm), most of those clumped proteins will have dropped out of suspension and as long as you rack carefully, you won't bring them back into suspension.

Is there any benefit to warming the beer between crashings? Wouldn't the clumped proteins return to their un-clumped form when the temperature is increased? Is there any real benefit to multiple crashings?

Yeast and Fermentation / Aeration Equipment Question
« on: July 13, 2013, 06:14:42 AM »
I'd like to improve my fermentations by changing the way I aerate my wort (normally I just shake the carboy), and I've been looking at pure O2 equipment.

What I'm looking for here is advice from those who have gone through this process so I don't wind up wasting too much $$$. I do want to get "good" equipment for this, nothing cheap that'll fall apart or give inaccurate readings, as I'd like to be able to control the process so I can accurately track changes.

To this end; I've been looking at a 20 CF O2 tank (welding grade, new) and medical-grade regulators and flow meters. Seems a set-up like this is running around $250-300. I don't mind spending the money, but I'd like to do it once and be done with it.

Anyone gone through this before, and what did you wind up with? Do you use medical-grade regulators and flow meters, or industrial-grade regulators?

All Grain Brewing / Re: Little confused with decoction schedule
« on: June 27, 2013, 02:45:11 PM »
Gonna try decoction on a hefe for the first time soon, and would like to know if there is any limit on how long you can stay in the acid rest without risk.

If I mash in at 111 F for a ferulic acid rest and let it sit for 10 minutes then pull my decoction, can I just let the mash hang out at 111 (and falling...) while I'm taking the decoction through a sacc rest then a short boil? Shouldn't be more than an hour.

Will I be risking anything with the mash sitting below protein rest temps?

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Drinking while brewing
« on: May 08, 2013, 11:06:37 AM »
I'll wait well into the boil to pop the top on a bottle of homebrew; and then it's usually only one with a sandwhich for lunch. I figure the hardest part is the mash, that requires the most attention from me and now that's in the past.
By the time I get to the boil it's lunch time on a Saturday and if the weather's nice it seems a shame not to partake of a previous brewing effort. I find that if I have more than just 1 or 2, then clean-up gets put off until the next day and I hate cleaning up hops and junk that have dried on the sides of the kettle.

+1 to that!

I write a Brew Day Sheet every time I brew so every step is clear including timing, amounts, etc., I actually include the following instruction: "When it comes to a boil, start the xx-min timer and have a homebrew!"

P.S. - That Brew Day Sheet has saved my butt a few times after a pint or two -

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: starter volume
« on: May 02, 2013, 10:38:39 AM »
Yeastcalc mentions an "ideal gravity" of 1.037 for a starter - perhaps that was done to keep the grams of DME to milliliters of water ratio at a nice comfortable 10:100.

I'll assume the growth rate calculators were set up based on that OG, but does it really make that much of a difference in the growth rate or overall yeast health between a liter at 1.037 and a liter at 1.030?

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Step vs Batch
« on: April 11, 2013, 04:31:12 AM »
The advantage of stepping if you need a large pitch is that one can achieve an optimal growth rate if the starter pitch rate is within certain limits (also discussed in the book "Yeast"). Within that pitch rate the yeast will grow at their highest rate while maintaining a healthy growth environment.

The disadvantage of stepping is vessel size limitations (for some, myself included), time, and risk of infection. If sanitation is at the forefront of your brewing operations, infection should not be a problem. Stepping does require crashing and decanting to remove the spent wort leaving only the healthy slurry, and a significant increase in the volume is usually a good idea, 10 times is recommended but I've had good success with much smaller second steps.

Making a starter is as much about increasing the cell count as it is about creating the healthiest pitch possible. Starting with a large volume such as 4 liters will grow yeast, just not as much as a 2 liter starter, assuming one vial or smack-pack is used.

Ingredients / Re: Post your water report
« on: February 18, 2013, 08:49:43 AM »
Sugar Hill, GA (North Gwinnett County), Tap Water sent to Ward Labs, February 2013

pH                                                         7.6
Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) Est, ppm          59
Electrical Conductivity, mmho/cm                0.10
Cations / Anions, me/L                              0.9 / 0.9

Sodium, Na                                             6
Potassium, K                                           2
Calcium, Ca                                            8
Magnesium, Mg                                       2
Total Hardness, CaCO3                             28
Nitrate, NO3-N                                        0.4 (SAFE)
Sulfate, SO4-S                                       2
Chloride, Cl                                            11
Carbonate, CO3                                     < 1
Bicarbonate, HCO3                                  26
Total Alkalinity, CaCO3                             22
Total Phosphorus, P                                 0.69
Total Iron, Fe                                        < 0.01

Ingredients / Re: Mosaic Hops?
« on: November 06, 2012, 04:29:20 AM »
Any idea if this years crop was large enough for some to be pelletized? I've never used whole hops before but if they're not going to go pellets for a while, I guess this'll be my chance to break into whole hops.

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