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Messages - jeffy

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1
I have used old malt, sometimes with insects, and I can say that it will lower the mash efficiency.  Try to keep it tightly sealed and as dry as possible in storage next time.  When the malt starts to get soft and mealy it has lost some of its starch. 

2
Ingredients / Re: How to make beer the color of Erik the Red's hair
« on: November 19, 2018, 07:22:49 PM »
I just did a little search of the forum for red x malt and found a photo of a beer using that.  Look for “red x in a pale ale” and go down to reply #11.  Is that what you are looking for?
https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/forum/index.php?topic=23007.msg293874#msg293874

edited to insert the link

3
Ingredients / Re: Versatile Hops
« on: November 15, 2018, 04:59:47 PM »
Sterling would also work.

4
Kegging and Bottling / Re: No Bottles/No kegs
« on: November 15, 2018, 01:09:34 AM »
Jeffy,
 You sir are a genius. I took the crimper part out and used a flat piece of wood and a rubber mallet. It worked great! Almost embarrased I didn't come up with that myself but I'm too happy about it to care, lol. I fully expected a bottle to break but they all made it through. Here's hoping they can take repeated beatings.
Thanks a bunch.
Woohoo!  Thanks, man, but I knew you could do it!

5
Kegging and Bottling / Re: No Bottles/No kegs
« on: November 14, 2018, 08:38:38 PM »
I am at a fly in, floating fishing lodge for the winter in Alaska. Winter caretaker. No mail or I would definitely get different equipment. Thanks for the help.
Wow.  You will have to make something to cap those bottles.  I have heard of a capper that used a hammer a long time ago.  Can you disassemble the part of your capper that fits over the cap and then use a hammer and a piece of wood to cap the bottles?  Or is that the part of the capper that doesn't fit?  You need something to crimp the caps while pressing the cap onto the top of the bottle.  I'll bet you can find something to work.

6
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: what is it?
« on: November 14, 2018, 12:17:39 PM »
Yes, pale ale malt is usually made up of two row, so your recipe doesn't make much sense.  For an IPA I usually use 80% two row malt, 10% Munich and 10% medium crystal for color, but you can do whatever you want.
Ooops, Slowbrew (Paul) was posting at the same time.  (It's not wheat, it's barley malt)

7
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: What's Brewing this Weekend?
« on: November 09, 2018, 05:55:15 PM »
I am going to experiment with pepper additions this weekend.  I plan to make two separate batches of witbier, one with roasted poblanos and a habanero in the mash and the other with the peppers added at the end of the boil.  Next brew I plan to make the same beer and add them my normal way, after fermentation.

8
The Pub / Re: What's the Weather Like Where You Are?
« on: November 09, 2018, 05:02:46 PM »
84F right now with 63% humidity in Tampa, but it is supposed to cool off this weekend.

9
The Pub / Re: Pictures
« on: November 07, 2018, 09:43:11 PM »
Found it in the mail a couple weeks ago. It was for White Legs Jalapeno wheat ale.
Cool!  I sent you a pm

10
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Dried yeasts and pH
« on: November 05, 2018, 04:37:37 PM »
Further they suggest that in triangle tests, panels cannot distinguish beers fermented with liquid or dry yeast,  but when informed that a beer is from dry yeast, will then claim to detect tartness.  All very interesting (and as I said I may be deluding myself as to the taste because I've seen the pH readings) but of course, valid or not, that's all off topic,  as what I'm curious  about is the actual measured pH value.

The only reason I know that Nottingham tastes tart is because when I've detected tartness I've gone back to check my records.  So, my single data point is that I noticed the flavor before I knew the yeast.

I'm no help on the pH, though.

I quit using Nottinghamk maybe 15 years ago because of the tartness I detected.  No confirmation bias there.
Me too.  I always thought of that yeast as if it were the generic package they always gave you in a basic beginner kit beer.

11
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Hop flavor gone
« on: November 05, 2018, 01:44:53 PM »
So on the idea of limiting oxygen: if I want to dry hop in the keg is it worth putting the hops in a bag into the keg, filling with star san and quickly pushing the star san out with CO2 then racking the beer into the keg?  These will probably be pellet hops in a fine mesh bag with some type of weight.  Not sure how much hop aroma you lose to the quick starsan contact with the beer- hopefully not much.  This would prevent any oxygen from getting in but potentially at a cost.  Not sure if that is a better solution than just filling up the keg as much as possible with the beer, drop the dry hops in, and flush as much as possible.
I think once you have the sanitizer pushed out of the keg you could either add the hops when empty or add the beer and then add the hops.  If you are intent on dry hopping this may be the best method.
The last one I did, I added the hops to the beer as it was finishing fermentation like Robert said below, then purged the kegs and transferred.

12
Commercial Beer Reviews / Celebration
« on: November 03, 2018, 01:14:45 AM »
The new batch is in stores now and I am really enjoying it.
One of my favorites.  Every year.

13
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: High pressure lager yeast experiment
« on: November 01, 2018, 07:31:17 PM »
Not surprised to hear about the lemon notes with 34/70 being rushed and blended with another yeast....
Hell, I pick it up when its not rushed!

For sure - I have gone away from it for that reason; just thinking that rushing it would cause the lemon to be more intense than a typical fermentation profile...no science on that, just my speculation.
No longer happy with 34/70 for various reasons, beyond lemon.  Wondering where to go next.   What are your current preferences,  Beerery and ynotbrusum?  Just curious.
I have done a few split batches with 34/70 and S23 and overwhelmingly prefer the later.

14
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Racking beer off fruit
« on: October 29, 2018, 09:30:53 PM »
I've experienced this as well, most memorably with a cranberry mead.  It would be best to transfer as much as you can gently without disturbing or aerating it and then when done you could pour the remainder through a sieve into another container for immediate serving or carbonating.  That way it wouldn't be exactly wasted.

15
Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: Hickory Wood?
« on: October 27, 2018, 05:23:10 PM »
Pellets are compressed sawdust, no filler added (at least the ones I use). They return to sawdust if they get wet.

Pear is a favorite for smoked beer. Like apple, maybe more delicate.

I've got an IPA going in the secondary, with Spanish Cedar (it is in the Mahogany family).

There are many woods that would be worth trying. Avoid pines as  they can be toxic. Regular Cedar is toxic.

Edit - there is an article on the Spanish Cedar IPA by Rodney Kibzey in the last BYO. I  had his in Portland at HomebrewCon. Loved it.
 
Did you know that a friend of mine may have been the first to use wooden sticks from cigar boxes in a homebrew and later inspired Cigar City for their Humidor Series?
Back to whiskey soaked hickory, though, that may be a pretty strong flavor in a beer.  I imagine it would overwhelm anything but the strongest styles.

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