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Messages - jeffy

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1801
Ingredients / Re: Water Has My Head Spinning...
« on: May 29, 2012, 09:30:04 PM »

With that being said - if I were going to aim for a pH of 5.5 at mash temp, it would be safe to go for around 5.7 at room temp?

No!  The safe range of room-temperature mash pH is about 5.3 to 5.5.  That indicates that the pH in the mash is 0.2 to 0.3 units lower, but that doesn't really matter.  The only thing we need to focus on is the 'room-temperature measurements'. 

A 5.4 room-temperature pH is a good all-around target.  If you want your beer a little sharper or tarter, aim a little lower (5.2 to 5.3).  If you want your dark beers to be a little softer, aim for 5.5.  But don't get carried away with a high pH target.  All kinds of things go wrong when you exceed about 5.7 to 5.8.  You can be a little low with pH and the beer should taste OK.  But it won't be so good if its a little high.

That's concise.  I was starting to get even more confused for a second there.  I may have to print this and put it in my brewers log.

1802
Ingredients / Re: Water Has My Head Spinning...
« on: May 29, 2012, 07:30:36 PM »
Here's something I should know, but for some reason I find it confusing:
If I take a sample of my mash and cool it down to 60 or 70 F and then take a pH reading which shows 5.4, is that the number I am generally looking for or do I need to correct it for the mash temperature?  If so, what is the correction factor? 
I understand that the same mash will read completely different pH figures depending on the temperature, but I wonder if mash pH number needs to be corrected to the 148 to 156 range.  Or maybe the pH is exactly the same and I need a meter that corrects automatically.

1803
Equipment and Software / Re: How's your Thermapen?
« on: May 28, 2012, 04:57:14 PM »
I was just looking at pricing on one.  Do you think they ever have a sale?
I bid on a used one just now on ebay, but somebody has a "plus a $ higher bid" thing going on.

1804
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Pitching dry yeast without rehydrating
« on: May 27, 2012, 05:21:01 PM »
Do what you want but I always rehydrate my dry yeast. It just doesn't make sense to do all that work- carefully measuring and sanitizing etc and then cavalierly toss the dry yeast in. It seems that dry yeast is considered to be so substandard that any extra effort is deemed worthless.

Well, I hydrate even on lower gravity beers. It works well for me and suggest that you use plain boiled and cooled tap water to do so. Hydrate at 85-90F. Never use RO or distilled to hydrate the yeast.

Good luck.
+1, it's easy to pour 4 oz of boiling water into a pyrex measuring cup Let it cooland sprinkle the yeast on.  Otherwise you are just throwing away half of your yeast.
I thought I would add that, otherwise you are just throwing away all of your yeast.

1805
Going Pro / Re: Counter Pressure Keg Filler
« on: May 27, 2012, 05:18:24 PM »
Trying to figure out why you would need this?
Same here.  Is it to get carbonated beer from the bright tank to the keg or from a keg to another keg?

1806
I'm brewing a batch of Wayne Wamble's original Hop Island IPA.  Its a Centennial/Cascade AIPA that is similar to Two Hearted.  Tallahassee was poorer when Wayne left town and desolate when Buckhead Brewery closed.  It's great to see him back in WBC Gold form at Cigar City.
I picked up a growler of his IPA yesterday at the brewery.

1807
Bottling the remains of some kegs then dry-hopping and adding cigar box wood to my IPA today, smoking malt tomorrow, brewing Czech Pils Monday.

1808
The Pub / Today is Towel Day
« on: May 25, 2012, 11:36:06 AM »
http://towelday.org/
I forgot to bring my towel to work. :(

1809
Now that's just ridiculous for one guy to have to endure.

It's show biz...we work so you can have fun.  The nights and weekends you're partying, we're providing the party.
Now you've got me singing Jackson Browne "Stay Just a Little Bit Longer" for some reason.

1810
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Rookie Needs A Lil Help
« on: May 24, 2012, 07:53:59 PM »
Regardless, we all know that it's 99% likely this beer will taste nasty.  N-A-S-T-Y.  It's been sitting, souring, and doing who-knows-what for two weeks.  It certainly will not be what it was intended to be.
We don't know that at all!  We have no idea if it is contaminated or if anything is growing, if it has any off flavors, or if it is just sitting there.

No, it probably won't be exactly as intended.  KGS, you say lesson learned - I say there are MORE lessons to be learned. :)

Of course, we're here yammering away and arguing over it, and the OP hasn't even responded to anything. ::)
Yeah, I still say pitch some yeast.  Ain't skeered.
I wonder if the OP is still with us and reading all this...

1811
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Rookie Needs A Lil Help
« on: May 23, 2012, 11:25:58 AM »
I talked to an award winning homebrewer a couple years ago who stored unfermented wort for months, sometimes years before pitching yeast and fermenting.  He seemed to think it made the wort better, sorta like spaghetti sauce is better the next day......
As long as your vessel was sanitized, you should be fine repitching.

1812
I have a couple Blichmann conical fermenters and because it is warmer where I live I can only brew lagers for about 2 or 3 months in Dec, Jan and Feb.  I have looked at ways to cool them, but I have mostly contemplated external means of cooling (i.e. a large walk-in refrigerator, custom cooling jacket, those cooling chips) but they all involved a really large investment (walk in cooler) or seemed overly complex (custom cooling jacket).  And I'm not so sure the cooling chips would provide enough cooling.  I recently received a mail order homebrew catalog that had a stainless steel coil style wort chiller (most are copper) and that got me to thinking about using it to cool the fermenter internally.  If I could mount the chiller inside the fermenter, make a connection thru the top of the fermenter to an external supply of ice water in a large cooler, use a digital thermostat like the Ranco or Johnson, put the temperature probe into the fermenting beer and have the thermostat turn on a pump to pump ice water thru the wort chiller when it gets too warm it seems like a workable solution.  It never dawned on me until I saw the stainless wort chiller.  The only other issue is that I would have to somehow insulate the fermenter so that it wouldn't run constantly and use up a ton of ice, but this seems reasonable.  Does anyone have any experience doing something like this?  Any concerns?  Any ideas?  Thanks for any input you may have. 
Warm Regards,
Dave
It seems like it should work, but rather than changing ice water you could buy a small freezer and keep the cooling liquid inside that at the set temp.  I saw a small commercial brewery with this set-up, using glycol and a small pump to cool a ten bbl fermenter.

1813
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: is this normal?
« on: May 17, 2012, 09:23:54 PM »
Also if I fill my current tube any higher the beer will overflow and thus be about the same level as i currently use.
So when you have the tube full of, say, water, where does your hydrometer read?  Is it still reading zero?  If so and it reads less than that in the beer sample, then that's one very dry beer.

1814
We had a similarly stupid law in Florida up until 2001.  Beer could only be sold in 8, 12, 16, or 32 ounce containers (after that it was OK).  So we had almost no European beers and no 22 ounce bombers.
As I understand it the law was originally enacted in the late 50's to punish Miller for not putting their new brewery in Jacksonville, building it in Georgia instead.  They had 7 (or was it 7.5?) ounce bottles.

Nice that they fixed that...but didn't that create your ridiculous no-64oz-growlers law at the same time?
last I checked anything between 32 and 128 ounces was still illegal?

cheers--
--Michael

No, that is a left-over from the original stupid law.  At least we can get growler fills now, just not in the normal sizes that everybody else in the country has.  Pints are fine for me anyway.

1815
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: is this normal?
« on: May 17, 2012, 11:09:44 AM »
That's been almost three weeks.  At the low O.G. it was probably finished in the first few days, but giving it the extra time certainly didn't hurt. 
Some types of yeast leave a lot of stuff floating on the top.  It doesn't mean it is actively fermenting just because is hasn't fallen to the bottom.

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