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Messages - jeffy

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1876
Questions about the forum? / Re: Go Down
« on: February 22, 2012, 06:39:50 AM »
Okay...now when I hit "new" it jumps to the proper place...anybody else?
No, same same.  Perhaps you just clicked on a "new" link that was near the top of the page.

1877
Questions about the forum? / Re: Go Down
« on: February 20, 2012, 09:58:14 AM »
Mine doesn't have that.  It starts with Time format.

1878
Someone else suggested using a piece of plastic tubing stuck onto the end of the tube, long enough so that the hose curves around and leaves the open end a little above the bottom.

1879
Questions about the forum? / Re: Changes
« on: February 20, 2012, 05:37:45 AM »
I don't think there was ever an answer for the "new" post going to the top of the last unread page instead of the last unread post.  It's kind of annoying.

1880
Beer Travel / Re: Orlando, FL
« on: February 20, 2012, 04:15:56 AM »
As sparkleberry says, Total Wine is probably your best bet for a beer store.  You can find Swamphead, Cigar City and possibly Tampa Bay Brewing's Old Elephant Foot (in 16 oz. cans).  Orlando Brewing Partners is also available.
Rossi's Pizza is a good beer bar and where the Central Florida Homebrew Club meets (first Sundays).
I don't know that there is anything that's walkable in Orlando.  It's spread out and made for drivers.

1881
In the midst of mashing my second attempt at Timothy Taylor Landlord, thanks to Hopfen's tasting notes.  Also smoking 150 pounds of malt for my local brewpub, this time over orange tree chips.

1882
Ingredients / Re: When should I add lactose...
« on: February 17, 2012, 12:45:56 PM »
I'm with Dave.
Me too, because I made a milk stout recently, adding it to the boil and I had a tough time reconciling the high final gravity. 

1883
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Super Clear Beer
« on: February 17, 2012, 12:41:58 PM »
Guess I'm not getting it cold enough for long enough maybe.  I try to cold crash it but I put it in the cold room which is pretty cold right now but probably a few degrees warmer than what you are suggesting.  I'm using Knox gelatin because on another post I was told it was as good as buying gelatin from the LHBS.

I used to use a whole packet in 5 gallons and it worked great, really fast.  Upon reading in this forum that half a packet or less is more appropriate and following those instructions, it takes longer.  I'm going back to a whole packet next time.

1884
All Things Food / Re: Espresso Machines
« on: February 15, 2012, 03:28:43 PM »
This is one of those weird questions that come to mind after reading the subject line "Espresso Machines" in a homebrewing forum....

What would happen (what would the result be) if you put hops (pellets would work best, I think) in your espresso machine and extracted tea at 9 bars pressure (is it 9?). Would it be a bittering tea, a flavor tea, or an aroma tea?

Follow up question: What would be an ideal use for this hop tea?  Throw in boil, throw in at end, throw in fermenter or secondary, or use as a randalizer type situation in serving vessel?

has anyone ever tried any of this?  Someone call Calagione.  :)
I have two espresso machines sitting in my garage.  They have been modified to pour cold beer through the portafilter.  We used them at the conferences in Oakland and San Diego, and will again at the conference in Seattle.

In one we pour a stout through coffee grounds and straight into the cup, but it gets pretty foamy because the pump is running (but the boiler is disconnected).

In the other we pour an IPA through hops and into the glass.  This one comes out much less foamy - it's a different machine that lets you push the beer through with just CO2 pressure.  We found that whole hops work much better than pellets, the pellets clog too easily.  There is a definite impact of pouring the beer through the hops, although it is fairly small which isn't that surprising considering the short contact time.

Not exactly what you are talking about, but still cool. :)

I had that coffee stout at club night 2010.  It was really good.

1885
Going Pro / Re: Leasing Equipment
« on: February 15, 2012, 03:25:05 PM »
Scmaltz Brewery Company started out contracting and was making enough money to expand pretty big.  It looks like they're successful with the Hebrew beer line and the Coney Island beers.
The guy started out wanting a few cases as a gag for presents for relatives and realized there was a minimum batch size of 10 or 15 bbls.

1886
The Pub / Re: What's the Weather Like Where You Are?
« on: February 15, 2012, 03:18:58 PM »
I had the most blossoms ever on my avocado tree, but we had a couple of cold nights this week, into the upper 30's.  I hope they aren't all dead.  I was looking forward to a lot of fruit this year.

Are yours good to eat?

The few we have harvested over the years have been very good.  Mostly the squirrels taste them first.

1887
The Pub / Re: What's the Weather Like Where You Are?
« on: February 15, 2012, 10:34:43 AM »
I had the most blossoms ever on my avocado tree, but we had a couple of cold nights this week, into the upper 30's.  I hope they aren't all dead.  I was looking forward to a lot of fruit this year.

1888
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Headspace for a lager
« on: February 14, 2012, 04:27:53 AM »
Lagers don't really ferment on the bottom.  The latest BYO talks about that in the article on the origin of lager yeast.

I've long suspected this. Care to elaborate?

Any yeast ferments when it's in suspension. Once it drops out of suspension it goes dormant pretty quickly.

The terms "top fermenting" vs. "bottom fermenting" are technically misnomers. It's more correct to call them "top-cropped" and "bottom-cropped" yeasts.

Historically, the barm (AKA krausen) on top of fermenting ales was scraped off (or allowed to overflow into another container and then collected) and pitched into a new batch of beer, hence "top cropped" or "top fermenting." Some of these strains (e.g., Pride of Ringwood) are noted for being "powdery" in that they flocc poorly and must be removed with finings or filtration.

By contrast, lagers were brewed using yeast cake left in the bottom of the lagering vessel, hence "bottom cropped" or "bottom fermenting." This favored strains which flocculated well and could survive long conditioning times and cold temperatures.
I think you meant Ringwood yeast.  Pride of Ringwood is a hop variety.

1889
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Using brewer's best conditioning tablets.
« on: February 13, 2012, 11:29:57 AM »
I have used these when bottling a few for competitions, usually 4 per bottle and do it 6 weeks out.  Works for me.

1890
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Need opinions over lost airlock
« on: February 13, 2012, 08:32:16 AM »
I had thought as much.  Usually I find the yeast holds some Co2 in it, even if there is not a lot of yeast after racking.  However, I am still a little concerned  that because it was already done fermenting prior to racking there was much less co2 in it to begin with (but what can I do but hope it still comes out good).  And keeping that in mind, is it worth while to rack the lager after it's one fermenting because, even with the best siphoning technique, there is going to be a least 1.5 gallons of air left at the top of the carboy.  This may seem like a silly question, but I am told the small amount of air at the top of a bottle can ruin a beer.



The yeast will scavenge the oxygen in the head space of the bottle during bottle-conditioning.  That's why bottle-conditioned beers do better than beers bottled from a keg in long term storage.
I'd say you're fine to bottle whenever you want.  I seldom even use air locks anymore for the first two weeks of fermentation.

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