Brooklyn's Sorachi Ace is definitely worth seeking. It's a very nice Saison.
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No spot Denny, but I know Brad will consider what his users want, within reason.
I know that he will, Fred. I think that at this point the thing I'm having the most trouble with is that Beersmith seems to rigid about making you do stuff its way. Maybe that means I haven't looked at Beersmith enough, which I freely admit. But ya know, I don't wanna choose a mash profile from a list. I don't want to have to deal with equipment profiles. I want it to be more free form. It's entirely possible that it can work like that and I haven't figured it out yet, which is why I keep going back to Beersmith and working with it. I also have to figure out how to get it to give me the same results as Promash in terms of gravity, IBUs, volumes and stuff like that so I can can work on recipes that I've used before and have them give me the same results. I'm not in any way dissing Beersmith. I just need more time and experience with it. Until I can get that, I'll stay with Promash or use both at once so I can see what the differences are and how to deal with them.
I wonder if any of you have this problem. I use the ball lock flare (threaded) quick disconnect (beer out, black). I try to crank the nut nice and tight when connecting, but twice now, moving other kegs in or out or disconnecting for some reason loosens it...two days later I open the discover a couple of pints (or more) in the bottom of the keezer....it is so much fun to waste beer and you know how us brewers like to clean.
Has anyone had this problem? Has anyone devised a solution? I was thinking of using some silicone tape on the threads to insure against this...
If I had to guess, it would be due to this:
"A stiff mash of <1.25 quarts of water per pound is better for protein breakdown, and results in a faster overall starch conversion, but the resultant sugars are less fermentable and will result in a sweeter, maltier beer."
Since I am pulling out the thickest part of the mash for each decoction, that volume will produce more less fermentable sugars if Palmer is correct. I should pull out Noonan's book and cross reference, but this would be where I would start looking for additional dextrins.
Thanks for that, but I don't know if that really makes much difference. At least in my experience, it's a stretch to relate mash thickness to wort profile in more than a very minor way.
I wonder what an all pils malt, fairly hoppy, wit-fermented beer would taste like? It might be kinda fun, except that some wit yeasts tend to have a sour/tart note. It could be a very refreshing, low-gravity summer ale.Instead of that, consider making 5 gallons of something with an OG around 1.035. You'll be fine with one packet/vial/smack pack of yeast, generate plenty of yeast for your next batch, and have something low alcohol you can drink.That would be a great idea except that I've been asked to make a wit and I finally got the yeast. I'd have to make Wit Lite and then make regular Wit. Or would you call the first one "half wit"?
Just a thought.
They look fine to me, too.For some reason your pics are not coming through. Are you using a photo hosting site?
They come through fine for me (and that's saying something as work usually kills most anything).
It looks like he's hosting them on shutterfly.