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Messages - jeffy

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1921
Ingredients / Re: Hop Bursting
« on: January 31, 2012, 03:15:24 PM »
I read somewhere that various desired hop oils have flash points (between 100-180 F, I think), so a brief chill down after FO to get the wort temp below 170-180 F was suggested before adding the steeping hops.

I've been doing Hop Stands between 140-170 F for approximately 20-30 minutes.  I think it helps extract hop flavors and aromas, though the aromas are often lost/diluted by the CO2 outgassing during fermentation.  Dry hopping is a good way to get back some of the aromas, but at the cost of grassy flavors and less clarity.
What do you think?  Does the additional steeping time make a difference?

The only hop essential oil that has a flash point over 180F is Caryopholene (SP) at 200F, and this one has spicy charactor like black pepper.  The others are about 78F to 112F, which is why you can get the big aroma from dry hopping, and that is why you want to dry hop at room temperature.  When you rub hops between your hands, you are flashing off some of those oils due to your body temp and friction heat

I made a couple of beers with the last hop addition in the whirlpool for at least 40 minutes, after the wort had been cooled down to 100.  I was expecting more aroma than I got.

1922
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Bottles aren't carbonating.
« on: January 31, 2012, 08:38:19 AM »
There's an old trick that Jeff Renner used to post that describes filling a plastic bottle at bottling time, squeezing the air out and screwing the top back on.  As the beer carbonates the bottle will expand and get more firm so you can observe the level of carbonation taking place.
Also, if you mark the fill level on a few of your bottles with a sharpie, you can actually witness the level of liquid increase as the beer carbonates.
But I haven't bottle-conditioned beer much in years.....

1923
Kegging and Bottling / Re: gelatin fining in keg
« on: January 29, 2012, 07:57:05 PM »
I used a full packet of knox gelatin for years until somebody on this forum said to use less.  My experience is that a full packet clears the beer faster and more thoroughly.

1924
All Grain Brewing / Re: Can sunlight affect wort?
« on: January 29, 2012, 07:07:49 PM »
I've had a pint of IPA start to smell bad within minutes of taking it out into bright sunlight.

1925
Kegging and Bottling / Re: gelatin fining in keg
« on: January 29, 2012, 06:51:33 PM »
I don't think you want to boil it, just pasteurize it.  I heat my mixed solution to about 160 and add it to the cold beer in the keg.  It will clear in the time it takes for the hot liquid on top to reach the same temp as the cold beer and then settle to the bottom.  I usually get a glass of gummy stuff and then nice, clear beer.  I don't transfer to another keg unless I need to move it or take it to an event.

1926
All Grain Brewing / Re: Can sunlight affect wort?
« on: January 29, 2012, 04:02:29 PM »
I've been searching the interweb for the actual article by Ray Daniels and can't find it, but memory tells me that beer needs to be fermented and contain riboflavin in order for skunking to take affect.  Unfermented wort is safe.

1927
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Dry pasteurizing sugar?
« on: January 27, 2012, 06:57:11 PM »
I made a very nice triple that way last year.  No worries.

1928
The Pub / Re: slightly disturbing statistics
« on: January 27, 2012, 05:51:23 PM »
Wow.  31 days in two years.  I must leave the computer on, get interrupted and walk away….yeah, I'm sticking to that.

1929
The Pub / Re: #58 - Not too shabby!
« on: January 27, 2012, 03:36:24 PM »
They should call it "RateImperialStout" instead of "RateBeer"
It is a nice list though.

1930
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Dry pasteurizing sugar?
« on: January 26, 2012, 10:43:11 AM »
you need to get the sugar into a liquid state before adding to the fermenter. heating it dry to melting will just give you caramelized sugar.

as for water needs, you should be able to dissolve a 1.5 of sugar in about a cup of water. if you don't want more water, pull some beer from the fermenter and use it to dissolve

Drew's correct.  If you add dry sugar to your fermenter it will likely just sink to the bottom.  Without a lot of stirring you will never get it into suspension.

Paul

I have poured store-bought granulated sugar directly into a fermenter at high kreusen and it successfully fermented it all.  I did not have equal success with liquid sugar as there was some dark sweet liquid left on the bottom after transfer.

1931
Commercial Beer Reviews / Re: SN Ruthless Rye IPA
« on: January 23, 2012, 06:21:36 PM »
. It could use more hop flavor to help balance the bitterness IMO but I like it.

Yeah, I agree, or a little less bitterness.  But that's something that I commonly think with SN beers.  My east coast brain would like them to dial it down a bit  ;)

wow and here I thought the bitterness is pretty moderate. seriously - will have to recheck this thought on Friday  ;D

I'm with blatz in thinking it was less than IPA-level bitter.  Kind of a slick mouthfeel, too.  Not my favorite.

1932
Equipment and Software / Re: Cheapest/best wort chilling device.
« on: January 23, 2012, 03:23:46 PM »
I have an extra pump in my system now, so after running hose water through the chiller until I get about 85F, I pump ice water through it to get down lower.  I recirculate back to the kettle with a whirlpool until the whole mass is the proper temperature.

Before I had this system, I used to pump wort out of the kettle, into a counter flow chiller (garden hose attached), into 20 feet of copper tubing in an ice bath, then into fermenters.  This worked fine, even in Florida.  It works best if you move the copper tubing around in the ice bath or stir the ice-water.

1933
All Grain Brewing / Re: Measuring mash pH
« on: January 23, 2012, 03:11:49 PM »
So what chemicals do you guys have at hand to adjust the water?  Or does a "pH stabilizer" like this from Morebeer work just as well?

http://morebeer.com/view_product/19873/102199/52_ph_Stabilizer_-_1_lb

As discussed in several other threads, the 52 stabilizer doesn't seem to do much.
I keep Gypsum, Calcium Chloride, Calcium Sulphate and Magnesium Sulphate on hand, but I use lactic acid to acidify the mash in pale colored beers for the most part.

1934
It's a beautiful day here, sunny with temps in the 70's, and I'm 40 minutes into the boil of a Milk Stout.
It seems too quiet around here.  Usually I have beer to rack or beer to keg or stuff to clean or bottle or something, but not today.  Just enjoying a relaxing afternoon.

1935
I am wondering if the wort has been fermented or if it got hot so suddenly that the yeast was killed first.  Have you taken a gravity reading?  If it is low (finished) then more yeast will not help.
Does it taste hot?  Fusel alcohols burn.

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