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Messages - jeffy

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2236
Kegging and Bottling / Re: leaking popits...
« on: July 18, 2011, 04:50:29 PM »
What's the advantage to using olive oil or mineral oil over keg lube?

At least then you wouldn't have to aerate your beer.   ;D
You do realize that only about 10 people on the forum get this joke?
Maybe you need some footnotes.
But then it probably wouldn't be a joke.

On the other hand mineral oil may have the same effect as 5.2 buffeting additive.

2237
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Home Glycol system
« on: July 18, 2011, 05:28:55 AM »
I know conversation moved on but you could use a beer pump to deliver beer longer distances without overcarbonating beer.

Beer pump meaning beer engine?
He's talking about an electric pump.  Some brewpubs use them instead of CO2 to push beer when the serving tank is a good distance from the tap.

2238
As I'm sure you're aware, a Dunkel is a lager, which, when made correctly, is fermented and aged cold.  This style pretty much requires refrigeration to make.  Most people starting out and for that matter, most brewpubs find making ales less equipment reliant and faster to make.
You could make an ale similar in color, malt flavor and hop schedule to a Dunkel and use a clean ale yeast, but it wouldn't be exactly the same as commercial Dunkels, perhaps not as "clean" as what you're ultimately looking for. 
Once you have made a few batches of ales and are indelibly hooked on the hobby, you can obsess about buying or making new equipment.

2239
Beer Recipes / Re: Sorachi Ace Saison, feedback time!
« on: July 17, 2011, 03:46:36 PM »


Brooklyn's Sorachi Ace is definitely worth seeking.  It's a very nice Saison.

2240
Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: Attenuation
« on: July 17, 2011, 08:08:32 AM »
"I am consistently falling short .001-.002 for my final gravity"
What method are you using to calculate the predicted final gravity?
If the yeast package says 75 to 80% attenuation, then .001 - .002 gravity points is well within that estimate.
If a brewing program is telling you what your gravity should be, please search for "Denny and Beersmith" and read how he feels about predictinng final gravities.
It sounds like such a minor issue......

2241
All Grain Brewing / Re: Traditional Bock Rostmalz replacement
« on: July 16, 2011, 03:56:19 PM »
His book says to substitute it with 150L crystal malt or the darkest you can find.
Would some melanoidin malt fit this bill?

2242
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: What's Brewing This Weekend - 7/15
« on: July 16, 2011, 06:26:49 AM »
While getting beer for dinner at a friend's house, not one, but two kegs ran out last night. 
So now I have room to put two more beers on.
I'll be kegging Vienna and IPA, checking the fermentation status of the Smoked Porter and sampling the Berlinner Weiss to see how sour it is getting.  That and a ton of yard work.

2243
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: ProMash -> BeerSmith 2
« on: July 15, 2011, 02:27:49 PM »
No spot Denny, but I know Brad will consider what his users want, within reason.

I know that he will, Fred.  I think that at this point the thing I'm having the most trouble with is that Beersmith seems to rigid about making you do stuff its way.  Maybe that means I haven't looked at Beersmith enough, which I freely admit.  But ya know, I don't wanna choose a mash profile from a list.  I don't want to have to deal with equipment profiles.  I want it to be more free form.  It's entirely possible that it can work like that and I haven't figured it out yet, which is why I keep going back to Beersmith and working with it.  I also have to figure out how to get it to give me the same results as Promash in terms of gravity, IBUs, volumes and stuff like that so I can can work on recipes that I've used before and have them give me the same results.  I'm not in any way dissing Beersmith.  I just need more time and experience with it.  Until I can get that, I'll stay with Promash or use both at once so I can see what the differences are and how to deal with them.

Same for me.  I don't know the purpose of a set mash schedule or why I need to input my system's equipment.  I haven't spent enough time on it yet to see why and how it all works.  I wanted to record the mash schedule on my last brew and gave up after several minutes, adding it to the "notes" section.
I'll figure it out eventually, but like Denny, I liked the simplicity of Promash just fine.

2244
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: ProMash -> BeerSmith 2
« on: July 15, 2011, 01:04:41 PM »
I switched to Beersmith because I have a PC and a Mac and it works on both for the same price.  I would not have switched from Promash except that my PC hard drive crashed and the new PC doesn't like the antique floppy discs that I originally loaded Promash with, whenever that was.
Hopefully I'll be able to learn to export my recipe docs to Beersmith.  I still find it a bit cumbersome, but I'm still learning.  It is a lot fancier.

2245
I had a very successful solara project in which I kept adding wort to a carboy with a pretty thick slurry of yeast and stuff on the bottom.  Occasionally I would use a wine thief to remove some of the beer for bottling, mostly for competitions.  It worked well and won several medals.  Eventually the thickness of the trub at the bottom reached an inch or so and made me nervous about autolysis, so I transferred the beer to another carboy and threw the trub away.  Fortunately there were enough bugs in the transferred beer that it made a nice pelicle right away.  I now have two of these projects going, one with bugs from several commercial sour beers and one with Bret B.  I add partially fermented wort to them every so often and blend them to taste.  It's interesting and kinda fun.
I don't know if the above helps with your scenario though, but I'd keep the blend and pitch it for sure.

2246
The Pub / Re: Showering with Gordon
« on: July 14, 2011, 03:24:29 PM »
Several years ago I saw a scuba diver reading a paper back book about 15 feet under water while he was doing an extended safety stop after a cave dive.  I talked to him later and he told me that the book is useless until the next dive, but then it's just fine if you can remember your place in the story. 

2247
Kegging and Bottling / Re: beer leak
« on: July 14, 2011, 10:43:20 AM »
I wonder if any of you have this problem.  I use the ball lock flare (threaded) quick disconnect (beer out, black).  I try to crank the nut nice and tight when connecting, but twice now, moving other kegs in or out or disconnecting for some reason loosens it...two days later I open the discover a couple of pints (or more) in the bottom of the keezer....it is so much fun to waste beer and you know how us brewers like to clean.

Has anyone had this problem?  Has anyone devised a solution?  I was thinking of using some silicone tape on the threads to insure against this...

discuss.

I hate it when this happens.
Does it leak with the black quick-connect attached?  If so I would check the o-ring at the top of the post.  If not, then the o-ring at the top of the dip tube, under the post may have failed or the spring-loaded poppet in the post is bad and leaking.
I don't think thread tape would help much.

2248
Zymurgy / Re: Pilsner Urquell triple decoction
« on: July 13, 2011, 08:56:24 AM »
If I had to guess, it would be due to this:

"A stiff mash of <1.25 quarts of water per pound is better for protein breakdown, and results in a faster overall starch conversion, but the resultant sugars are less fermentable and will result in a sweeter, maltier beer."

From http://www.howtobrew.com/section3/chapter14-6.html

Since I am pulling out the thickest part of the mash for each decoction, that volume will produce more less fermentable sugars if Palmer is correct.  I should pull out Noonan's book and cross reference, but this would be where I would start looking for additional dextrins.



Thanks for that, but I don't know if that really makes much difference.  At least in my experience, it's a stretch to relate mash thickness to wort profile in more than a very minor way.

On the other hand, if one pulls a thick decoction of 40% and raises that to high sacc rest of 156-160F, then that would account for it, eh?

2249
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Making starter from grain.
« on: July 12, 2011, 12:52:00 PM »
Instead of that, consider making 5 gallons of something with an OG around 1.035.  You'll be fine with one packet/vial/smack pack of yeast, generate plenty of yeast for your next batch, and have something low alcohol you can drink.

Just a thought.
That would be a great idea except that I've been asked to make a wit and I finally got the yeast.  I'd have to make Wit Lite and then make regular Wit.  Or would you call the first one "half wit"?
I wonder what an all pils malt, fairly hoppy, wit-fermented beer would taste like?  It might be kinda fun, except that some wit yeasts tend to have a sour/tart note.  It could be a very refreshing, low-gravity summer ale.

2250
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: 15 more minutes.....
« on: July 12, 2011, 11:55:21 AM »
When does your door to door beer dispensing tour begin?  ;) My neighborhood could use it. It's hot out today.

Mom, Mom!  The beer man's here!  Can I have a dollar?

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