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Messages - jeffy

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31
All Grain Brewing / Re: increasing abv
« on: March 27, 2019, 10:50:11 PM »
I'm making a smoked porter in which the OG is 1.080 with an FG of 1.020. The result is an ABV of 7.9%. I'd like to bump the ABV up a bit more, like 8.5 - 9.0% (trying to make it like an imperial porter). The recipe has no adjuncts. What might I add to make the increase - perhaps molasses or treacle. And if so how much should I add for a 5 gallon batch? I don't want to mess with the overall smokey flavor to the beer. Is it possible? Thanks for your suggestions.
You could use a more attenuating yeast to get the final gravity lower or add some sugar to help dry it out.  I think just regular sugar would be fine to limit the influence on the rest of the malts in the recipe.

32
All Grain Brewing / Re: Topping off boil kettle for 10 gallon batch?
« on: March 22, 2019, 08:28:54 PM »
How about sparging?
Yeah, why not go with option 3 and sparge?

33
HomebrewCon 2019 / Re: Homebrew Con 2019
« on: March 17, 2019, 09:33:05 PM »
We have flights booked.  My wife and I are coming up the Saturday before to explore a bit.

34
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Think I'm going back to whole cone
« on: March 11, 2019, 09:35:15 PM »
I found in my system that I didn't get the hop utilization I wanted if I used mesh bags or even with one of those stainless things that hangs in the kettle.  I have gone back to adding pellets, loose. 
In the past I had been trying to find a way to keep all the debris from clogging my therminator and finally settled on running the hot wort through a Hearts Super Chiller https://heartshomebrew.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=17_213&products_id=878 with well water until the wort was 100F or so, then running it through the therminator with ice water and directly into the fermenters.
It helps if I start a whirlpool with my brewing paddle and continue the whirlpool while chilling.
Most of the trub stays in the kettle.

35
I saw a video of a pro brewer actually light ethanol he sprayed into a valve before connecting a line to harvest yeast.


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   There was a thread recently on the BA forum about sample port cleaning which had a link to a video produced by the ASBC and the BA. Among the suggested items were a spray bottle containing 70% alcohol - either ethanol or isopropanol - and a propane torch. The reason for using 70% instead of 90% alcohol is that 90% evaporates too fast, the torch is used to burn off/evaporate any residual alcohol before taking your sample. TIFWIW.
Careful there.  I heard a story just yesterday of a brewer starting a fire in the brewery like that.

36
The Pub / Re: What's the Weather Like Where You Are?
« on: March 06, 2019, 02:42:03 AM »


Groundhog, you got some splainin' to do!

Hey I saw and Osprey this past Saturday, and heard another today. That's a more sure sign of spring than any groundhog could ever come up with...

Yeah, and my house has been invaded by ants over the weekend.  I'll take that as a sign of spring!  ;D
The mosquitos are back.  Maybe they never left.
It’s supposed to get pretty cold tonight in Tampa.  I hope my avocado tree can take it.  It has more blossoms on it than I have ever seen before.

37
How old is that book? Klages?  Haven't heard that name in years.
Also curious,  I looked it up.  1990.  But even by then Klages was no longer grown and "Klages" was just homebrew shorthand for 2-row, IIRC.   FWIW,  I would discard any of those old  Classic Beer Styles Series books still lying around.   They were mostly wrong when they came out (not always the author's fault, good info was scarce then) and are utterly outmoded  now.

Agreed
On this note, note this.  The book's description of what clearly should be a cereal mash makes no sense, it appears to be a misplaced description of a decoction procedure from a malt mash.  The rest at 158°F can serve no purpose as the adjunct contains no enzymes to convert the starch; that happens later in the combined mash.  And in a decoction a long boil develops Maillard  products because conversion has taken place.  Here there is nothing to be gained from a boil longer than 10 minutes to gelatinize the starches.  This is the sort of half-understood information to be expected in old homebrew books (and some newer ones not written by Denny and Drew.)  Hope this helps the OP to understand the procedure.
I always thought the 10% barley malt was there at 158F to convert some of the adjunct and prevent a gummy, sticky decoction.

38
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Iodophor age
« on: March 02, 2019, 09:48:40 PM »


I tapped a sample tonight from a corny keg marked “iodophor 1/12/19, transferred to this keg 2/17/19.”
The color is pale yellow if not lighter.  Almost no color.
I will see if my local store has test strips this weekend, but the color tells me that it’s not a viable solution.

I just tested some with the strips I got (same brand hopfenundmalz posted about above.)  12.5 ppm is a WAY lighter, yellowish, color than what I expected.   You might be ok, but you'll have to test to find out.   It will be good to recalibrate my eyeballing of the color.  I've probably been wasting concentrate because I thought it looked too weak.
I picked up some test strips today and checked the solution in the above keg.  It was pretty much no color change on the strip.  I then tested a solution I had made up this morning to sanitize bottles and equipment and it looks like it reads about 12.5 ppm.  Interestingly, if I look at the latter in the tub (about 7 inches deep) it is mid amber in color, but in a typical judging cup, the liquid is almost colorless.  So if you are going to use color of the liquid as an indication, you need a deep enough sample.
I think I will experiment a bit with kegs and age to see how that progresses.

39
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Tobacco Infused?
« on: March 01, 2019, 09:54:50 PM »
Maybe some dark chocolate malt coupled with some of the "Spanish cedar" sticks you find in cigar boxes would evoke the flavors he wants.

40
I wonder, this style being one that is fairly high in carbonation and very dry, if you can manipulate the bottles so that the fermentation finishes in the bottle.  You say it is too sweet, but perhaps the yeast hasn't finished yet. Keep the bottles very warm until the last minute before shipping.  Too hoppy is a matter of perception and some saisons can be perceived that way.
If you have paid the fee, send it on in.

41
Equipment and Software / Re: Now about buckets
« on: March 01, 2019, 01:09:13 AM »
I agree with Denny in that scratches in plastic and infections in beer are not mutually inclusive.  If the scratches are clean and sanitized you’re good to go.  The old saying that scratches harbor bacteria infers that the scratches were not cleaned or sanitized properly. 

42
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Iodophor age
« on: February 28, 2019, 01:23:14 AM »
I tapped a sample tonight from a corny keg marked “iodophor 1/12/19, transferred to this keg 2/17/19.”
The color is pale yellow if not lighter.  Almost no color.
I will see if my local store has test strips this weekend, but the color tells me that it’s not a viable solution.

43
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Iodophor age
« on: February 26, 2019, 02:19:27 AM »
Wow.  Five pages, an expert, a lot of discussion, but not a clear answer to my original question, unless I missed it.  If I measure the proper amount of iodophor into a five gallon keg, seal it, then push it out with CO2 into another keg, there will be no air drying involved.  I'm OK with having a small amount of dilute liquid under the dip tube and I feel that that first corny keg is sanitized and ready to fill with beer.
Now what if I leave the other keg full of sanitizer until the next time I have beer ready to keg?  It's in the dark without oxygen in the head space.  It may be a couple of weeks before I push out the solution with CO2 into another keg.
From what I have read here, the answer is that this probably works, but since it is so cheap, why am I doing it?  Because I have lots of kegs and it's nice to clean and sanitize them at one time.
This weekend I think I will pull out a sample from a keg with three week old iodophor and check for amber color.  Will that be as definitive as a test strip?
Jeffy, something I don't quite get about your procedure.  If a little bit of iodophor is left in each keg, then from the second one on, they aren't completely filled to start.  You can surely invert the keg briefly to get full coverage.  But the headspace will be more and more as you go, which, it seems to me, means a little more air left unpurged each time -- which could affect not only the beer, but also the iodophor.  Am I missing something?

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I think we’re only talking a couple of teaspoons full.  Not enough to matter in my opinion.  None of the kegs is exactly the same volume.

44
The Pub / Re: your favorite commercial Pilsner
« on: February 25, 2019, 10:27:41 PM »
I really like Pivo Pils, but it is not available around here.

45
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Iodophor age
« on: February 25, 2019, 10:26:15 PM »
Wow.  Five pages, an expert, a lot of discussion, but not a clear answer to my original question, unless I missed it.  If I measure the proper amount of iodophor into a five gallon keg, seal it, then push it out with CO2 into another keg, there will be no air drying involved.  I'm OK with having a small amount of dilute liquid under the dip tube and I feel that that first corny keg is sanitized and ready to fill with beer.
Now what if I leave the other keg full of sanitizer until the next time I have beer ready to keg?  It's in the dark without oxygen in the head space.  It may be a couple of weeks before I push out the solution with CO2 into another keg.
From what I have read here, the answer is that this probably works, but since it is so cheap, why am I doing it?  Because I have lots of kegs and it's nice to clean and sanitize them at one time.
This weekend I think I will pull out a sample from a keg with three week old iodophor and check for amber color.  Will that be as definitive as a test strip?

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