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Messages - chumley

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All Grain Brewing / Re: Decoction
« on: March 14, 2015, 12:05:40 PM »
For weissbiers I like to mash-in at 105°, raise that to 135°F, then raise that to 155°F, then lauter/sparge.

90% of the time I will do that as a step mash, but once in a while I will do a double decoction. For a dunkelweizen with Munich, I would go ahead and go with decoctions.  I think they are more worthwhile for a wheat and munich malt beer, as opposed to a pilsner.

Ingredients / Re: Pellets vs whole hops
« on: March 10, 2015, 01:06:34 PM »
I pretty much use whole hops exclusively; however, then again, I also use a false bottom in my kettle.  Whole cones, a false bottom, and an immersion chiller allow one to drain clear wort from one's kettle.  Whirlpooling helps to reduce, but does not completely eliminate hop material from entering one's fermentation vessel when using a ball valve-equipped kettle.  A good compromise that I have seen used in several craft breweries involves using pellets in the boil and whole cones in a hop back while casting out the wort.

My exact reasons for preferring to use whole hops.  Although I agree with the storage and longevity side of pellets.  I use a lot of pellets, but have to use them in hop bags or knee high panty hose bastardized hop bags in order to keep them from clogging up my BK.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: What's Brewing This Weekend? 2/13/15
« on: March 09, 2015, 12:31:50 PM »
He does not specify fermentation schedules in the book.  I am fermenting it in my 55°F basement.  The great amount of yeast activity is such that the fermometer is reading 62°F.

I will probably secondary it until October or so.  Maybe bottle, maybe not.

Through the magic of Google and Amazon, you can look at the actual page from the book here:

The Pub / Re: the best beer countries in the world
« on: March 09, 2015, 09:16:27 AM »
I would place the Czech and Slovak republics ahead of Italy, Norway, and Sweden. Poland as well.

Ingredients / Re: Brewer's Pitch
« on: March 09, 2015, 08:15:55 AM »
Hmmm.  That would explain when I asked Karel Goddeau at the DeCam brewery how much lambic he needed to top off his casks for "the angel's share", he looked at me blankly and said, "none".  It's because he ages his lambics in used PU casks. Now I know.  :D

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: What's Brewing This Weekend? 2/13/15
« on: March 09, 2015, 08:04:39 AM »
Friday I brewed a stock/Burton ale recipe for 1846 Truman XXXXK, found in Ron Pattinson's book The Homebrewer's Guide to Vintage Ales.

Recipe called for an OG of 1.117. I hit 1.107. So close enough.

5 gallons

17.5 gallons 2 row
10 gallons Maris Otter

Mash in at 145°F for 30 mi. Add boiling water to raise to 152°F for another 60 min.

Lauter and sparge to collect 12 gallons of wort. Boil for 5 hours down to 7 gallons (actually 5 gallons when accounting for the losses to the hops).

4 oz. 10% Northern Brewer (Pellets) 90 min - The receipe called for 8 oz. of EKGs, but I only had 8 ounces in stock.
8 oz. 5% East Kent Goldings (leaf) 30 min

Pitched 3 packets Nottingham yeast. Whacked it with oxygen once I chilled it down to 55° prior to pitching the yeast.

48 hours later.....

25 years of homebrewing, and I still can be an idiot.  Friday night, I chilled the wort, then opened the ball valve to let it drain into the primary.

About a gallon and a half flows into it, and then it is stuck.

How could this be? I have a false bottom over a screened tube.

Here is why I am an idiot.  I bought these giant stainless steel tea balls at the World Market a couple of weeks ago, thinking they would be great to dry hop kegs with. Friday when I am brewing, I needed a pound of EKGs, and only had 8 ounces. So I substituted some Northern Brewer.

Only the Northern Brewer hops were pellets. Instead of using a hop bag, I thought, why not use those tea balls.

Turns out hop pellet particle size is much, much smaller than the mesh of the tea balls.

I let the wort slowly drain into the primary overnight. When I got up Saturday morning to go ice fishing, all five gallons had drained through the hop goo.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: When is a lager an ale
« on: March 03, 2015, 03:21:50 PM »

The only Idaho homebrewing law that I am aware of, is that all homebrewed beer must contain a minimum percentage by weight of 20% potatoes.

From your friendly next door neighbor. :)

Who has a great Irish ale recipe?

I have brewed this several times and love it.  Disclaimer: I am partial to 6-row, corn, and Clusters.

It's about time to think about brewing a beer for a St. Paddy's Day party. How about something different from the usual stout or green beer, something with an American touch? I've made an Irish-American ale that I figure is similar to what was served in Irish neighborhood taverns in the Northeast 100 years ago, although I have no proof. Maybe like McSorley's? It's sort of a red ale with corn, flaked barley, medium crystal and a touch of chocolate. It's a little stronger than a British session beer, a little less than typical US beers (due to higher FG), and certainly less strong than the authentic ales of a century ago, but they didn't have to drive home then. This is popular with Killian's drinkers as well as real ale fans as it has enough interest to hold them. Resist the temptation to up the bitterness as it is inappropriate in this style.

McGinty's Irish-American Ale

5.25 gallons @ 1.044
5.5 lbs 6-row (US 2-row should work, too)
1.75 lbs flaked maize (this is an American brew!)
0.75 lbs flaked barley
0.5 lbs crystal 30L
2 oz. chocolate (this gives dark amber and nice flavor, use 1 oz. if you want red)
This time I mashed 154°F 60 minutes. The first time, I did a 40/60/70C mash (30 minutes at each step) adding the corn at 60C the first time . The 40C rest may have helped break down beta-glucans in the barley, and passing from 40 to 60 over 30 minutes or so effectively gave me a protein rest, which may have made the beer clearer. Irish moss might not hurt. However, this brew has cleared nicely.
Bittering hops - Cluster (I used 3/4 oz for 19 IBU) (any neutral bittering hops will work)

Finishing hops - Golding (Domestic would be fine) (I used 1/2 oz for 15 min. for 4 IBU and another 1/2 oz at knockout) (FWH might be nice here) Target 23 IBU

Irish Ale yeast YeastLab A05 (although I used NCYC1332 this time)

OG 1.044
FG 1.015

- Jeff Renner

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Beer for Thought...
« on: March 03, 2015, 11:31:00 AM »
So how long do I boil the yeast?

Those beers look awesome!

After my 50 year old fridge that served as my lager fermentation chamber finally passed on to its great reward (see picture below with me dropping it off at the transfer station) in July, I have moped around and haven't brewed any lagers for six months.  Until my employer decided to buy me a new small chest freezer that holds two 6.5 gallon fermentors, as a reward for brewing beer for the client Christmas open house.  Woo hoo!

Back in the saddle again.  Bohemian pils is fermenting in there now, Vienna next, Mai-Bock for the third and final pitching.

Yesterday. after several hours of ice fishing, I went to the bar for lunch and had a Reuben sandwich with fries, washed down with three pints of PBR.  The bill was $17.50. I was happy.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Kick starting a stuck doppelbock
« on: February 26, 2015, 08:42:29 AM »
Yes, I have roused it several times, and it has been out of the fermentation chamber, sitting in the low 60s for a couple of weeks.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Who Has Experienced BRY-97 Slow Start?
« on: February 24, 2015, 05:24:23 PM »
I have not experienced that, and have had good luck with BRY-97 fermentations so far, but one never knows what the dried package went through before you got it.  When things are slow for the ales, a backup plan is always good.  I have brewed several IPAs where I used BRY-97 as the backup plan (e.g., add it, rehydrated, to the primary after a couple of days of slow start), and it has always worked out well.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Kick starting a stuck doppelbock
« on: February 24, 2015, 05:21:09 PM »
Thanks.  I am well aware of that strain, having used it 10 years ago to finish a stuck agave nectar mead (and an absolute fantastic job it did as well).  I thought I would start off with the lager yeast option, before proceeding with Option 2.  Believe me, that is being considered.

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