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Messages - gevans73

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All Grain Brewing / Re: Hop Aroma In The Final Product
« on: August 21, 2014, 12:57:07 PM »
I've found that no matter the dry hop amounts, the aroma always fads too fast.  I've gone to late additions, steep and whirlpool, then use a hop rocket to keg or bottle with.  Makes a huge difference.  If you really want a lot of aroma, connect your hop rocket or randle to your serving tap.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Hot Side Aeration
« on: July 01, 2013, 02:21:54 AM »
I've been using a paint stirrer drill to cool my 10 gallon batches for nearly a year now and have never had an issue at all.  I run the drill fairly slow and am careful to not produce foam or bubbles.  Seems to work better with the paint stir inside the chiller.  It still cools 10 gallons in less than 15 minutes.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Need Some Serious Help
« on: May 07, 2013, 12:28:35 PM »
I seldom respond to much, just read a lot, but feel your pain, so will throw my opinion in.  Bearing in mind you have had a lot already, sometimes this a good thing and sometimes it can get you to change to many things complicating the results.  Do you have any local micro brewers you can take a sample to and get their read?  I have done that often and has enabled me to make some great award winning IPA and DIPA's.
Next, if it were me I would simplify my grain bill and my hops.  Use one base grain, I have real hard water so I use a Canadian Pilsen but Canadian 2 row works well, because I like a lighter colored beer.  Make sure your grains are fresh, fresh, fresh.  If you or your HBS is not storing them in air tight containers like vittle vaults, then get them somewhere else.  All my grains are bought in bulk, but stored in a cool environment in Vittle Vaults as is my local HBS.
Hops, they seem to be competing. I would not use Chinook as a bittering in your case, try a neutral hop like Magnum to start at a 60 minute boil, or even better a FWH.  I'd drop the hops at the 0 minute boil and dry hop with 2 ounces of Simcoe at 7 days and 2 ounces of Citra at 4 days.  I found if I dry hop too long with my water I get that grassy taste as well.
Good luck and keep us posted.  Cheers!

Thanks for all of responses.  After adding up what it was going to cost me for all of the copper and plumbing work, I decided against it and am going to a 15 gallon SS pot instead.  Found a Bayou Classic for $100 brand new.  I can use my exisiting false bottom from my 10 gallon Igloo and auto sparge.  Adding insulation around it should keep my temperatures fine for a 60 minute mash.  Then I also have the equipment if I ever want to update to a RIMS or HERMS system.

mtnrockhopper, what does your LHBS do for a manifold.  I like the size, maybe I can get a piece of perforated ss and angle it thereby not having as much dead space.

Cheers - and thanks for the input.

On tap honey DIPA.
          bourbon stout
          Extra Pale Ale
          sMash Ale
          2 DIPA
          Black DIPA
          Extra Pale Ale

Curious to know if anyone is using the 70 Quart Maxcold coolers for a mash tun.  I have a 10 gallon Igloo round I use for smaller beers, but want to make a 10 gallon batch of a big beer, (36lbs of grain).  It would work in the 70 quart, but it has a weird 45 deg shape on the back for the wheels I guess.

I have a Blichmann Top Tier system and two of their brew kettles, but not quite ready to make the jump to a SS pot and then needing to go to a rims system.  We always fly Sparge and I use a Blichmann auto Sparge system that works well. 

I am new to brewing, just since October, but do have 19 batches made since then, so I think I have a pretty good handle on things.

Thanks for the input!

New to brewing and the AHA.

We are brewing a Stone Black Double IPA this weekend.  It is my son's 30th birthday and it was his request. 

On Tap:  Bourbon Stout, Pale Ale, Plain IPA, Hopslam clone, Oberon Clone.
Fermenters:  2-Two hearted IPA clones, Strawberry Blonde Ale, Hopslap Lite

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