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Messages - wingnut

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1
Equipment and Software / Re: Burner info is overwhelming!
« on: April 06, 2015, 06:17:31 PM »
Burer will work fine. 

I used SP10 (high pressure burner) for years and was happy with it.  I went to the blichmann style burner later and retrofitted it to my SP10 stands and ported for natural gas.  They are overkill a bit for 5 gallons, and the ones you are looking at will work great!

Long story is that there are lots of opinions, but short story, is they all work great for 5 gallons.  Most all work great up to 12 gallons, and some work good up to 15.... so if you are not doing larger than 10 gallon all grain batches... you will do great.

Enjoy!

2
The Pub / Re: Oscar Blues Buys Perrin Brewing in MI
« on: March 29, 2015, 06:42:07 AM »

I wonder what the bottling line they put in was? Last June we we unpacked the 2nd round NHC entries there, plenty of room, no bottling line. They had a top of the line Krones that they only did a test run on, and then sold it at a loss to Kuhnhenn who are expanding. Not a good return on that equipment.

http://www.mlive.com/business/west-michigan/index.ssf/2014/09/perrin_killing_craft_bottles.html

I appologize...  I was using bottleing in a generic sense.... (12 oz package vs kegs)  To be specific (and less misleading) It looked to be a canning line.   I was suprised by the small footprint (hailing from to the industrial automation world...it seemed more like a toy compared to jim beam and budwiser lines I have seen).   Looked like it had filling heads and a sealer....so I am pretty sure it was not just the "front end" of the mobile canning operation that visits so many michigan craft breweries. 

Must be why they dumped the bottleing line.  If they were looking to start small package distribution, it is better to start out in the correct format rather than grow and switch. 

Thanks,

3
The Pub / Re: Oscar Blues Buys Perrin Brewing in MI
« on: March 28, 2015, 12:03:57 PM »
Wow!  The wife and I just made a journey up there last Saturday.... enjoyed the restaurant over looking the bottleing line, good food and great beer!     Still had a bit to catch up to Founders and Bells after their remodels, but a great place to have a meal and a one stop beer journey.

Hope not much changes, except they take over more tap handles over a larger area.


4
Equipment and Software / Re: brew nanny
« on: March 25, 2015, 07:42:24 PM »
I ordered a brew bug when it came out.  performs the same function, great to work with.. and a year later..still doing great.

the company has continued to upgrade their system ... and I love it.

It is kind of nice to  call up the gravity and lunch....and know that you need to start the Drest when you get home... or be out on an all day fishing trip and see from the trend that the beer has started active fermentation.

At 250... it is still a toy that is NOT needed.  mills, fridge, kegs are all on the list long before this...but after you have all those gadgets...what the heck... :D

5
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: step infusion mash for german pils
« on: March 23, 2015, 07:01:44 PM »
I am  in the 133, 144,155 boat.    I used to do 2 infusions to get there, (10 minutes, 10minutes, 30 minutes) now I have the ability to ramp the temperature, and go from 133 to 155 in 20 minutes and hold for 30. 

I do an all pilsner malt bill, and I usually finish 1.012 to 1.009.

My anectdotal observations are that I get better head and mouthfeel in a low attenuating beer by going this rout compared to a single infustion mash at 152. 

Enjoy!

6
Running out of gas is a right of passage...  In the brewing bingo game, that is a definate square!

45 minute boil... NP

Hope its the best beer ever...and we all can shave some time off!


7
Kegging and Bottling / Re: WILL LAGER CARBONATE WITHOUT ADDING YEAST?
« on: March 22, 2015, 06:11:26 PM »
one week--- got Pffst..?  You are doing fine. 

Let it go another two weeks and then chill it so the CO2 dissolves more into the beer.  Let it sit cold for about 1 week minimum, and things will settle out, CO2 will dissolve into the beer more... and you will have a nice head on the beer when you pour it!


Enjoy!

8
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Stainless steel auto syphon bottler
« on: March 22, 2015, 06:06:39 PM »
My worry on the idea would be O2 pickup leading to beer stailing faster.   Seems like you are exposing more beer directly to air than I would lik. (compared to a bottleing bucket with a wand into the bottle.)

That said... if I was re-fermenting in the bottle,  or connect up a CO2 source to continuously blanket the filling chamber with CO2.... it is a sweet way to fill bottles!!


9
I might have to work on a project like this my next free day.   I have been looking for a means to provide speed control to the drill, and possibly lock the drill on... without havig to keep one hand on the drill the whole time.

This solves the issue!

Another idea would be for those people doing fly sparging with march pumps.  I would think this would allow them to ramp speed control better.   Might be a $20 fix where a $5 valve would work just as well... but it is a lot cooler to have a dial on your control panel than moving a ball valve handle.

thanks for the idea!

10
The Pub / Re: Electrical question for the smart folks
« on: March 13, 2015, 05:43:39 AM »
Check this site out....

www.batterystuff.com/kb/tools/solar-calculator.html


looks like it does all the "slide rule stuff" for you... and you get to just play with the conditions of your system.   (looks kind of like playing with Palmer's water spread sheet, or beersmith)

One thing to note... In your previous post, you had noted you had 6volt batteries.... and my spidey sense is going off.

Long story short, you likely have a 24V system... not 6V. I point this out because any amperage gauges you have are likely based on the 24V(assuming) not 6V.   

6 Volt batteries are common in a power bank system, but usually what happens is that the batteries are hooked up in such a way (series) so that you get 12, 18 or 24V systems.  (picture 4 batteries connecteced like this:  -+ -+ -+ -+     that gives you a 24V system. 6+6+6+6)  Likely you have a LOT of banks of batteries in parallel ... so lots of banks of 4 batteries in parallel, to give you the storage capacity you need, and larger amp capacity.

hopefully the site will allow for an easy estimation of time.   If you get some funny results, I am happy to provide a reality check. 


 


11
I am kind of on the fence on the whole thing....

I don't see the argument for Bells in this case....HOWEVER!

The way trademark laws are written, there really is no "protection".  No one is independantly or proactively studying each trademark or potential trademark. No entity is going to protect your brand for you.   So it is up to each company/person to defend its own trademark and brands. 

The way the laws are written, if you fail to defend a "potential" infringment as soon as you are aware... you are essentially letting your trade mark lapse and all future arguments that someone is "stealing" your tradmark become null and void because you did not defend it previously...So allowing the precidence of someone to use it without your express permission, opens everything in the future up.

All in all the preset system was created by lawyers and big business to benefit lawyers and those with deep enough pockets to have them... Creating a competitive edge for bigger companies by creating a need for lawyers to argue this nonsense, when most people could create an agreement over a beer and a hand shake.

I think it is a crappy move on Bell's part when looking at this singular item...but because of the whole big litigation world surrounding trademarks... I think it is something they may need to do when you look at the big picture.   (Part of the @$#% part of the business)

What really needs to happen is a better set of laws surrounding trade marks, and a change to the system that enforces it.  The present system was created by big companies (mostly outside of the beer business) so to have the laws work, you have to use them like big business. 

It sucks.


12
The Pub / Re: Electrical question for the smart folks
« on: March 12, 2015, 05:35:22 AM »
Yeah... a bit of "it depends" goes into the equation.

I don't have a solar array, but I did work on the solar car team back in college.... so I can present the theory... but I am sure someone else out there can speak from experience.

-The theory-

The 30 Amp charger will tell you the maximum amps you are putting into your batteries, but the actual power will be less than that.  (The 30 Amp charger should have a larger capacity than your solar array... or you would smoke your charger).

The actual solar power will vary during the day... it may be near 30amps at peak times, but typically much lower than that. 

To calculate, you would need to know the average amp output of the solar array during the day, and multiply that times the number of hours to get an  idea of the amp hours your are putting back into your batteries. 

Also your charger is not 100% efficient, so for a more accurate equation, you would need to multiply the solar array amps times the effiicency of the charger (been a while, but 80% is a good rule of thumb based on automotive alternators) to figure out how much is going to the batteries.  That should get you pretty close.

I would think the solar array has an watt or amp indicator on it.  (watts are volts times amps)  with that you should be able to start estimating the re-charge time.


Good luck!

13
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Hop Teas and other Hoppy techniques
« on: February 12, 2015, 05:56:43 AM »
My opinions... (ask 5 others and you will get 6 more opinions)

1.) I do not like the strategy of having the wort less than boil and above 170 for an hour... that is asking for off flavors.  10 to 15 minutes would be plenty. 
2.) I would add charges at 10 minutes of boil, 5 minutes of boil and 0 minutes of boil, and see what that does.... the charcter of adding hops is differet depending on the time you drop them in... and I think you need a RANGE of character to get the full hop effect you are looking for. Adding a bunch at one shot, give you a limited range of hop character.
3.) Compare finishing gravity of your beer to your favorite beer.  You may need to get your beer dow to 1.008 or below to get the mouth feel you are looking for.  (get the body of the beer out of the way a bit so the hops shine through)
4.) your more hops idea is probably a good idea.  I think you get everything out of the hops in about 10 to 15 minutes...once the stuff is in the wort, the green stuff is just taking up space.  (again opinion)  The hop stand you are doing at the end between boil and 175.... is a good thing, just not for an hour.  No added benefit for going past 15 minutes, and there are some cons that make me wrinkle my nose at the idea.

14
Equipment and Software / Re: Submersible pump keg cleaner
« on: February 06, 2015, 05:26:22 AM »
I've used the one that many homebrew suppliers sell.  I use as hot as water as I can.  In 3-4 years, never a problem. 

Same story here... bottom of line submersable pump... cleaned kegs for three years in as hot of water as my hot water heater will put out.... probably 60 keg cleanings... an hour or so running water through a piece.... and the pump still hums along.

Just make sure to plug it into a GFCI for safety!

15
Equipment and Software / Re: 2 brew kettle questions
« on: February 06, 2015, 05:22:34 AM »
The mesh will work.... but as others have indicated... it is likely to deform over time and reduce the space between the kettle and the bottom of the grain bed... essentially collapsing over time. (time might be minutes into a batch, or 50 batches...) 

I use some stainless screen in my 1 gallon setup (igloo jug.... probably about 2.3 gallons in size if I recall correctly) and that works ok, but due to the design, I have a two inch long, half inch nipple on the inside of the cooler, and that helps keep the mesh from collapsing by the spigot.   (I only brew on it once or twice a year... it is kind of my pilot system for making starter wort or for experiments with yeast/hops)

For a five gallon batch, I would spring for the stiffer perforated stainless, or put in a copper ring with slits cut into it with a hacksaw.  (if you are in a shop with stainless mesh, you might have stainless, copper, or aluminum tubing that would work for this)

Good luck!

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