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Topics - wingnut

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Events / Link to past presentations broke?
« on: May 30, 2017, 11:37:39 AM »
I was just lookng to listen to some of last years presentation now that lawnmowing season is back into high gear.   Problem is I do not appear to be able to find a valid location for them.

I tried  However, it brings me here:  and when I login, I get:  The requested URL /wp-content/themes/aha2016/includes/proc_login.php was not found on this server.


The Pub / Has Beer as a whole declining?
« on: December 23, 2014, 02:14:44 PM »
I just read an aricle listing the decline of some major big beer brands over the past few years, and I was wondering if beer as whole consumed in the US is on the decline?

I know craft beer is very much on the rise as far as per capita consumptioon, but these are some pretty big numbers craft beer would have to make up for!

Ingredients / Water Salts in beer?
« on: September 29, 2011, 08:59:19 PM »
Just brewed an American Brown Ale, and the resulting beer just does not have the "hop pop" I am looking for.  However, I tried adding some gypsum to a glass, and the flavor sharpened quite a bit.

Is there any reason I should not make a salt addition to the keg? Will the salt even dissolve?

Any advice would be appreciated!


Kegging and Bottling / leaking popits...
« on: July 16, 2011, 02:16:50 AM »
I started keging a year ago... and for some reason , I am suddenly having issues with my poppits not sealing when I pull the liquid disconnect off of my pinlock kegs.  Is there are trick to pulling off the disconnects, or it is possible the poppits have gone bad? Any suggestions?  (The puddles in the bottom of my fridge is starting to get old!)

Thanks for the help!

Ingredients / Any HopShot users?
« on: May 02, 2011, 01:25:17 AM »
Anyone used the Hopshot or other Hop Extract product in the secondary? 

I have been experimenting…rolling back the IBUs in a beer I have been brewing for years…so I can find the level of bitterness that leaves the malt character as “exposed” as possible, but still provide enough bitterness to keep it from being cloying.    I now know where just over the line is, and I would like to add some bitterness back to the beer so that I have five gallons of drinkable beer.   

I could brew a bitter version and blend the two… but since I have a HopShot floating around… it sounds like a good time to experiment with that as well.

So anyone have some experience to share?  Will the HopShot be more like dry hopping?  Will the extract dissolve in cold beer?  Will the hop character just be bitterness?


So I am sipping my last batch of Vienna lager… pondering what to do different as I compare it to a number of commercial examples.   

I like the malt flavor, and I like the hop balance, but the Sulfur characteristic I am getting from the Whitelabs 833 yeast is a bit higher than I would like compared to the samples I am comparing it to. 

So with that in mind, is anyone aware of mashing processes for reducing sulfur or different yeasts that give off a great malty flavor, but with less sulfur?   I am brewing the next batch in a couple weeks, so any advice to ponder now while I formulate the next recipe would be much appreciated!

Kegging and Bottling / Comment on proposed keg cleaning procedure
« on: November 19, 2010, 08:33:48 PM »
I am relatively new to kegging, and I have read up on it a bit… but I had the following brain storm and I am looking for comments/experience, on if my thoughts are critically flawed or not.

Basically, I went to kegging as a means to reduce oxidation in my beers, and a more speedy packaging day is a nice benefit too!

My thought was that once I kick a keg, it is full of CO2 and a bit of beer residue.  What if I filled a keg with StarSan and pushed that into the sealed keg… essentially dispense the StarSan into the sealed keg… and shake the Star San around… invert the keg to make sure the top of the keg gets a good dose as well… basically rinse the keg with StarSan, and keep the keg full of CO2.  That way when I am ready to fill the keg again with a fresh batch, the keg will already have CO2 in it and be sanitized.

Obviously, the keg will need to be completely dis-assembled every three or four batches to keep the poppet and such extra good… but is a complete dis-assembly necessary after EVERY beer?

I look forward to learning from everyone’s wisdom!


Equipment and Software / Hot Water Heater Burner?
« on: October 14, 2010, 06:54:59 PM »
So I am helping my brother replace his 20 year old water heater this week-end.  (His old one has developed a leak in the tank)

Being a homebrewer, I have become fixated on possibly detaching the burner unit from the tank and useing for brewing purposes.  I figure if it can heat up 30 gallons of water to 140F, it should be able to heat 5 or 10 gallons to 212F!!. 

My primary goal is to be able to use the house Natural Gas instead of going through propane tanks. Knowing that it has safetys for pilots not being lit....etc adds a layer of safety as well.

As a secondary benifit, I can probably connect some controls in place of the present thermostat to make my kettle a direct fire mash tun and have more control over mash temps than my present infusion/cooler setup.

Anyone have any experiance with useing a hot water tank heater as a burner? Anyone have advice on extrating the burner intact? (Since the tank is still in service, I have not seen how easy or hard it may be?)

Thanks for any advice!

So I have an Brown Ale in the fermentor right now.... and I have been enjoying the snow globe of yeast activity the past couple days.

This is the first time I have brewed this I make up from scratch... and in taking my samples the first and second day... I did not detect the level of chocolate flavor I was expecting at this point.  Granted it is WAY too early to start worrying if the beer will turn out the way I intended, and in all likely hood, once the sugars get chewed through and the yeast flavor dies down a bit... the roasty flavors will start to shine through.

However, it got me thinking, about adding roasted, chocolaty flavors to beer post ferment and how best to do it.  It would be a useful tool not only to correct flavors in beers, but to come up with two different beers from a single recipe. 

My thought was to steep roasted grain in cold water for a period of time (cold water to keep tannin extraction from the husks to a minimum since the cold tea ph will likely be in a bad range), then boil the extract and add to the keg or bottling bucket. 

Anyone with experience doing such a thing, or know of a resource to read through as a starting point? 


Beer Recipes / Nutty Brewnette... American Brown Ale guidance
« on: September 11, 2010, 03:44:31 AM »
On a recent trip out to Oregon, I stopped at a BJs Restaurant for the first time.  (Great food, good atmosphere, Great beer)  While dining, however, my wife FINALLY found a beer that she enjoys… the Nutty Brewnette.  

So, long story short, I have found my wife’s gateway beer.  However, BJ’s are not present in Michigan… So my wife has assigned me the task to brew up my own version of the Nutty Brewnette.  

After looking at their website, the list of the grains and hops to be used is listed…so I think I can get a decent beer produced in three or four tries… but has anyone brewed a similar beer that they wish to share the recipe on? Or provide pointers on the one I have developed?  I am just looking for a good starting point that my save me a few iterations, and possibly achieve a some “good graces” for brewing a beer she loves!

My planr recipe for the first 5 Gal batch is:

10LB    Pale Malt
1LB      Crystal 40
.5LB     Victory Malt
.75LB   Special Roast
.125LB Chocolate (350)

.5oz Magnum 12AA% @ 60min

1oz Willamette 4AA% @ 20min
1oz Fuggle       4AA% @ 20min

And the vitals off of the BJs website is:

  Nutty Brewnette® is an American-style brown ale. A blend of four different dark malts contributes to a flavor profile that is sweet with “nutty” notes. A healthy dose of hops makes this beer hoppier and more balanced than most English brown ales.

Style:American Brown Ale Alcohol:5.9% by volume
Malt Variety:2-row Pale, English Crystal, Briess Victory and Special Roast, Chocolate
Bitterness (IBU):35Hop Variety:Magnum, Willamette, UK Fuggles

Any comments to help dial it in would be appreciated!


Kegging and Bottling / Advice on Leaking keg posts
« on: August 29, 2010, 03:21:47 PM »
Hi all,

I just got the final pieces of keg system setup, cleaned and rebuilt the kegs, replaced seals...etc ... Spent a day locating and fixing leaks... and carbed up my first batch of beer.   

However, when I plugged in my faucet line, I had beer leaking past the post seal between it and the connector.  No amount of wiggling the connector, adding keg lube... etc would keep the beer from spewing past the seal. 

I finally removed the "brand new" o-ring and put one of the used ones on... and the leak went away. 

I got the new o-rings from a popular Homebrew supplier, and the gas side worked great... so I am wondering if my experience is unique... if there is a better cure than using an old seal, or if there is something to look for that will identify the o-ring as "not up to par" (aside from nicks and cuts).

Any and all wisdom is welcome!


General Homebrew Discussion / Beer staling prematurely?
« on: July 27, 2010, 10:36:55 PM »
→ The thing I am looking for advice about is beer flavor stability. 

Essentially, a LOT of batches in the past year and a half seem to be having their flavor change...relatively quickly.  The most common comments I have been getting from judges are “cardboard” or “sherry”.  Some of the beers with these comments are only 10 weeks old.... I did not used to have this issue, but now it seems to happen frequently.  Once the beer goes a little stale, however, it sees to say stable for at least 6 to 8 months (no beer has lasted past that age so far) Also, other than the notes of sherry/cardboard, the beers, when judged, receive very favorable comments, and no mention of flavors indicating bacterial infections.  (three of the beers in question were sent to NHC and scored 34,37, and 38, and the only negative notes were about the apparent “age” of the beer.   

In the past year I have started refrigerating my carbed beer, in hopes of lengthening the time (with minimal improvement, however). 

I presently prime/bottle condition my beer instead of kegging. (Would kegging help the issue?)

I batch sparge, ferment in glass, .put bottles in fridge 1 to 2 weeks after priming when carbonation is achieved.   All transfers are siphoned via boiled tubing. I use Irish Moss in the boil kettle, and that is the only fining.   Yeast is from a yeast starter/liquid yeast.

The one batch I did with extract, was a barley wine, about 6 months ago, did not have this issue. (Too bad, it would not mind it if the barley wine aged a bit fast!) The rest of the process was identical.

Any process recommendations that will increase the shelf life, or am I just expecting too much?



Greetings all!

I will be makeing a trek from Michigan to Portland On the week of July 16th to 25th and touring the upper Oregon and lower Washington area. 

Is anyone aware of hop farms giving tours during that week?  I would love to visit acers and acers of hops, and maybe even see some of the equipment. 

Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated!!!

Kegging and Bottling / Are all Corny Kegs the same size?
« on: June 18, 2010, 03:56:51 PM »
I am looking to move into Kegs, and I already have the luxury of a fridge… so I am looking to see what the best layout of Kegs in the fridge is.   What I have found is that my shelves are 24 inches deep and 28 inches wide.  My thought is to put thee kegs on their side across the fridge shelf.

However, in looking through the internet, I have seen two different sizes for corny kegs listed:  One is 9” dia, 23” tall.  The other is 25” tall and 8.5” dia in dimension.   Based on limited number of samples, it appears that Pin Lock kegs are 9x23 consistently, and Ball Lock kegs are 8.5x25 consistently.

So I am looking to find out if the dimension difference is based on keg style, or if the dimensions are somewhat random.  Also, if Pin/Ball locks are different dimensions, but consistent … how hard is it to get/find parts for pin lock vs ball lock? (The majority of places I see online have ball lock parts)

Thanks for sharing the wisdom!

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