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Messages - wingnut

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181
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Rinsing Lager Yeast
« on: May 07, 2011, 05:07:28 PM »
Any experience with WLP833?  I'm going to be using it soon and will want to rinse it when the time comes.

I have tried rinsing this yeast many times, and I do not get a distinct layer.  There is some trub that settles very fast, but most of the trub just settles with the yeast. 

What I wind up doing is doing a rinse and just decanting of the sediment that settles in the first 30 seconds or so.  Then I let the rest of the stuff still suspended in the decanted liquid to settle and use that for the next beer.

While it would be nice to pitch "pure" yeast into the next beer, I do not think it is detrimental to the beer if there is some carry over.  As long as the major hop particles and big clumps of break material are removed... I think you will be all set.

182
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Is this yeast or somthing else?
« on: May 07, 2011, 04:59:03 PM »
Lagers definitely have a krausen ring.  The CO2 that evolves from fermentation pushes yeast and other things that are in the krausen to the top... just like ales.  In fact, I think budwiser has special fermentation tanks that help keep the krausen from falling back into the beer.


183
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Ceramic coated stock pot?
« on: May 07, 2011, 04:53:26 PM »
That 21 qt is what I started with... and I am still using it 4 years later.   

If you follow the "typical" progression, the next thing you will find is that the wife or significant other may start complaining about the kitchen time, and smell.

What I did was invest in a turkey fryer setup.  The aluminum pot works great for all grain and full wort boils with extract, and the burner allows me to brew outside.

Enjoy the pot, and if you think of it... cover the oven top in foil (leaving a hole for the burner) that way if you have a boil over the cleanup is easy.

Good luck!

184
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: WLP029 at 58F?
« on: May 05, 2011, 05:02:47 AM »
Well, my alt spent a couple days chugging at 58F and now it's going strong at 62F. I will let it ride there for another week or so before I raise it to ambient for a few days while I let my fermentation chamber take on an IPA. Then I will rack the alt into a corny and pitch the slurry into 12 gallons of Kölsch which I will probably also ferment in the high 50's now that I know the yeast can take it.

I would pitch about 1/8to 1/4 the slurry into the kolsch. (assuming good yeast health, proper oxygenation in the last beer...etc)  Pitching the full slurry is just too much yeast.  (assuming same batch size). 

My personal progression for this yeast is 2L yeast starter -> 3 gal cream ale (1/2 yeast slurry into) 5 gal Alt  1/2 into a 5 gal Kolsch.  After that my fridge is full for the first half of summer. 

This tends to be over pitching the yeast, but the results are good for me.  Based on what I have been reading lately, I think that if I went to pure O2, the yeast health would be better and I could cut down on the quantity of yeast slurry to start. 

Either way, keep the kolsch yeast at 52 to 58 and love the results!!!

185
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: AHA First Round
« on: May 04, 2011, 06:57:27 PM »
If you wanted to re-brew, you have had every opportunity to do so since the competition began, or even before that.

you are joking... right?  what if I entered 5 beers, or 15, or 50?  How am I to know which made it through the gauntlet and which fell by the wayside?  I am still waiting for results from you or in the mail, and am WAY under a reasonable timeframe to rebrew a great beer in time to ship for the final round.

Quit splitting hairs, it seems like everyone is looking for a reason to complain about this year's NHC.  Take some personal responsibility and plan your brewing accordingly if it is that bloody important.

Competition sure brings out the best in people.


Here is kind of the genius of this year...

You could enter your beers in any region.  It has long been known that some regions judge before others.  Typically the west coast has their sheets back while in the midwest... we have to wait for the full release to know if we placed or not. 

This year, though, you could have entered your beer in ANY region.  Next year, just enter your beer in the region that is judged first if you are that worried about it.

This issue you speak of has been present for many years... it is just the nature of the competition.  You can either choose to embrace the competition for what it is... the biggest, the most, and the best... going head to head. 

So accept the logistics that come with it... or just enter in something smaller that does not have the logistics involved.

Choose wisely...  I chose to sit this year out... and I miss the excitement greatly!!!

186
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Plastic bottles?
« on: May 02, 2011, 07:20:09 PM »
I put my "fishing" beer into plastic bottles all the time.  (broken glass on a boat is bad news) It works great.  I bought 16oz brown plastic bottles from northern brewer and I think Midwest as well.  There is some debate on the long term storage as the plastic may be oxygen permeable, but I can say that the beers I had in plastic for a couple months were fine.  (Naturally carbed, stored cold after that)

Nice thing with naturally carbed beers is that you can squeeze the bottle and get the oxygen out of the head space before putting the cap on... essentially purging the bottle.

I would not use the root beer one's however, as I suspect the plastic will gain a root beer flavor that may carry over to your beer.  (I had that problem with some root beer I bottled for a party in the bottles...had to toss them after getting a really weird flavored cream ale...with the distinct flavor of root beer!)

Good luck!

187
Equipment and Software / Re: Beersmith
« on: May 02, 2011, 07:11:51 PM »
I spend my first three years of allgrain brewing creating my own software from Excel spread sheets and Visual Basic Macros.  It worked good... and then I found Beer Smith last year...

It does everything and even though it seems a bit overwhelming when you first open it... they have video tutorials that step you right through how to do everything.  It is fantastic software, and feels much better to use than Promash.  It also has a lot of features that I use... like mash schedules, auto brew day sheet creation, scaling from all grain to extract and back.

Try the 21 day trial...watch the tutorials, and import the recipies to play around with... enjoy.

188
Ingredients / Re: Any HopShot users?
« on: May 02, 2011, 07:05:12 PM »
Cool... so Hopshot used as "dryhop" yields dryhop effects... not really IBUs. 

Looks like I can place an order for a different product of brew a beer to blend.

Thanks!

189
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: WLP029 at 58F?
« on: May 01, 2011, 06:46:16 PM »
I have a "cream ale" going right now at 52F ... and it goes great.  The past three batches of the cream ale fermented at 52F to 54F, have medaled 5 out of 5 times.

The only thing I have found with that yeast is that you HAVE TO make a starter.  Otherwise the lag time, even with a fresh tube in a 3 gallon batch, will have a lag time measured in days...Once it has "woken up" up though, it will rock'n'roll in the 50s just fine.

Lastly, you may wish to let it lager for 3 to 4 weeks as well.  I have found a great improvement during that time, and if you can give it two months... it is fantastic!

Enjoy!

190
Ingredients / Re: tomato
« on: May 01, 2011, 06:33:33 PM »

I drank a bloody beer last week, and I can second that it was fantastic!  It is certainly not like a pale ale or stout by any means... but it was good.  It was great paired with roasted pepper hummus.

The dill character was very important, and I think the horseradish balanced the tomato similar to how hops would balance a normal beer.  I agree, though, it is more like a bloody marry than a typical beer.

191
Ingredients / Any HopShot users?
« on: May 01, 2011, 06:25:17 PM »
Anyone used the Hopshot or other Hop Extract product in the secondary? 

I have been experimenting…rolling back the IBUs in a beer I have been brewing for years…so I can find the level of bitterness that leaves the malt character as “exposed” as possible, but still provide enough bitterness to keep it from being cloying.    I now know where just over the line is, and I would like to add some bitterness back to the beer so that I have five gallons of drinkable beer.   

I could brew a bitter version and blend the two… but since I have a HopShot floating around… it sounds like a good time to experiment with that as well.

So anyone have some experience to share?  Will the HopShot be more like dry hopping?  Will the extract dissolve in cold beer?  Will the hop character just be bitterness?

Thanks!

192
Pimp My System / Re: 3 tier gas/electric indoor 10 gallon brewery
« on: February 09, 2011, 08:17:43 AM »
Very nice. I'm in the process of planning a basement brewery and am trying to decide on whether to use natural gas or electric. You don't run into any carbon monoxide issues with the propane? Does the exhaust fan have enough oomph to pull it all out? Do you also have a fresh air intake somewhere? Just curious as I start to plan...

You will want to provide some makeup air... in some fashion.  Essentially, the hood is going to pull 300 to 400 CFM (I am estimating based on experiance in the HVAC industry, different hoods may pull even more).  It will get that from somewhere.  If you provide a duct to the outside, it will pull it form that duct.  If not, it will pull it through window seals or cracks in the exterior of the house.  Essentially creating colder/wamer exterior rooms. 

With that said, most modern furnaces have a duct leading to the outside already located near the furnace to prevent the furnace exhaust and hot water heater exhaust from doing that exact same thing... so you many not need to add one if that already exists in your brewing area.

Bottom line, the makeup air source is not 100% needed, but I highly recommend it.

Now for the important part... does the jenair hood prevent the brewing smell from permiating the house?  That issue has pushed me to the garage in my house, and I would love to return to the friendly confines of the basement myself!!

Thanks,

193
All Grain Brewing / Re: A simple model for pH buffers
« on: January 25, 2011, 06:00:56 AM »
Hmph, I never thought of it like that before... but that is really a great way visualize.  A lot of the things I have been reading just went "click" after reading through the article and viewing the graphic representations.

Thanks Kai!

194
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Wort aeration needed?
« on: January 04, 2011, 06:59:48 PM »
I recently posted results of an aeration experiment that used a perforated pipe: http://braukaiser.com/lifetype2/index.php?op=ViewArticle&articleId=140&blogId=1

In that experiment I only got to 4 ppm O2, which is about  50% of what you can get with air. The problem is that you need to be able to create lots of fine bubbles to ensure wort saturation with O2.


Thanks Kai!

Gotta love hard data and I really appreciate you posting your experiments!

195
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Wort aeration needed?
« on: January 04, 2011, 10:57:35 AM »
I have had similar thoughts... on the order of "just how much aeration do I need?" and "How easiest to do it?"  What I have pondered is just holding the drain line from my kettle about two or three feet over the fermenter and letting it splash in. 

My hypothesis is that more wort surface area will be exposed to the air and result in saturation of the wort very quickly.  To reduce the chance of dust/bacterial contamination on the first experiment, I thought about drilling a hole in the bottom of a brew bucket and inverting it over the fermenter... protecting the space from floating dust, but still exposing the wort to a large volume of air.

Anyone done/doing something similar?

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