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Messages - wingnut

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Equipment and Software / Re: Immersion Chiller Solder
« on: January 11, 2015, 05:58:56 AM »
I my opinion, the fact that they took the time and effort to stabalize their chiller is a big plus.   the style chiller depends a bit on having the tubes spread out... but if you spread copper tubing out... it acts more like a slinkey.

i would keep it! 

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Star San Question
« on: January 10, 2015, 06:32:07 PM »
never had an issue. 

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Air distribution manifold expansion
« on: January 10, 2015, 06:44:13 AM »
no problem doing this.  The plug is the same thread as the other ports.

teflon Tape all connections... and put shutoffs with check valves to make sure the air pressure of the kegs are isolated.  (otherwise a leak in one, or a pull off of the other kegs... leaving 5 flat kegs. 

I put 6 into my fridge, and put two other ports (one for my beer gun, and one for a keg outside of the fridge for times when I needed to pressurize before storing)

The other option is to get another two port or more maifold and connect it to the plug port.

Just make sure if you have taps out the front of the fridge, you look to see if you have spaceing for it.   I put 6 kegs into my fridge, bought 6 taps... and just did not have a wide enough front on the fridge to make it look good.  (So I only have 5 on tap through the door)

Equipment and Software / Re: Ventilation for Indoor Brewing
« on: January 09, 2015, 07:50:54 PM »
The bigger the opening, the more volume (bigger fan) you will need to draw the air up.

For the electric system you are looking at, a standard overn hood that is vented outside should work well.  You may wish to bump up the fan size on a standard kitchen fan.... if you go with one of the big gormet oven hoods, you will have plety of draw, but a lot of those are 6" duct rather than the 4" duct you have with the dryer.

Equipment and Software / Re: Weldless fittings
« on: January 04, 2015, 08:28:18 PM »
All the ones I have work without drips....

All of mine have an o-ring on the outside between either a ball valve or washer and the pot.  Make sure you are compressing the o-ring slightly and you should be good. 

I would also check the holes you drilled and make sure there are no burrs in the holes.  I have had burrs create enough of a bump along the o-ring to keep it from sealing properly.

Good luck!

All Grain Brewing / Re: 3 Hour Mash What Happens
« on: January 03, 2015, 09:59:49 PM »
might be because its my first day back at work and my head is fuzzy- but how did you end up with 17 gals post boil for 12.5 gal batch?

im thinking the grains "drip dried" the extra...

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: How best to lager
« on: January 03, 2015, 09:43:08 PM »
I lager as I carb every time. No worries.

same here

All Grain Brewing / Re: Water options
« on: January 03, 2015, 09:24:33 PM »
Do you need to add the Gypsum and Calcium Chloride to both mash and sparge water?

I  add to both.  I batch sparge now vs fly sparge (as I used to)... and I have always added the salts to the grain for the mash, and then again when I add the rest of the water.  (Either when I start to fly sparge or when I add the second batch of water to batch sparge)   PH comes out at 5.2  for all styles.

I read somewhere that the grains help the salts disolve, and after adding the salts to the water a number of times and finding a lot of white residue floating on the  bottom of the pots...that is what I do.  (granted, If the salts do not dissolve in the grain... I would have no way of knowing).   

Ever since adding to the mash tun, however, the PH comes out the same each time.  (It may be a coincidence, but if it works...who am I to argue?) :-)

Good luck and enjoy!

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Yeast Viability
« on: January 02, 2015, 07:32:44 AM »
The couple cups wont make a noticeable difference in the finished product. 

I always look forward to reasons to stop by the local homebrew store, but this certainly not a reason to put off brewing a batch of beer!   Let it rip!

All Grain Brewing / Re: Water options
« on: January 02, 2015, 07:05:27 AM »
Chloride enhances malt flavor.  Gypsum/sulfate enhances hop bitterness.  If you prefer one over the other for a particular style then decide based on that.  If you want a balanced beer then use them 50/50 or lean a little more towards chloride as calcium chloride is smoother and less "offensive".  If you use a lot of gypsum the beer will taste harshly bitter.  Too much chloride?  Meh... almost impossible to do that.  A calculator like BrunWater is still your best bet if/when you are ready to get serious about water adjustments, which can be put off for later.

^^^^  Exactly.  I start my recipies with a 50/50 split and that works well for the beers I like to drink.   It works for my hoppy American Brown Ales... right on through to my German Pilsners. Even the Belgian APAs and Porters come out great. 

If I have a beer that I want the hops to pop a bit more, or make the malt pop more, I would shift the ratio so that I use more Gypsum to make the hops stand out, or more Calcium Chloride to accentuate the malt. (Note, I have not found a reason to do this yet)

My homes have traditionally had hard well water, and that is what I used quite a bit in my brewing career... the wisdom I have learned is that less is more when it comes to minerals in the water.  By going distilled/RO it gets the minerals "out of the way" and with a simple addition of putting back a few minerals to the water...everything becomes consistent and easy... and the flavors become less muddled and stand out on their own.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Water options
« on: December 29, 2014, 03:29:29 PM »
I just keep water simple....

I buy Distilled or RO water from the store (10 gallons per batch)
I add 1 TBS Gypsum and 1 TBS Calcium Chloride (you can pick these up from the homebrew shop) per 5 gallons.

Keeping it simple is the way to go in my book. 

Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: Do you strain your wort?
« on: December 26, 2014, 09:03:34 PM »
I dont strain.  I do not thin it hurts anything if done before oxygenating.  I do not do it mostly becuast it is just one more thing that I might screw up... and one more thing to clean. 

I am one for keeping trube out of the fermentor, but I just siphon after a whirlpool, and what little bit makes it in... never been an issue.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Question on Mash Temp
« on: December 24, 2014, 06:22:21 AM »
Couple hints I have found from my system.... the time it takes for the temperature to settle and be more or less even throughout the mash is about 15 minutes.  I do not know why, but it seems that after I dump in the water, and stir for 2 to 5 minutes, the mash reads one temp.  When I check again in 10 minutes.... it is usually another temp (sometimes higher sometimes lower...often by 5 degrees or more)

Most of my recepies have the same amount of grain, and same mash thickness... so I have settled on just warming my strike water to 12 degrees above the desired mash temp... and have had good results. 

I used to keep a frozen 1 gallon jug of water on hand, and a pot with 3 or 4 gallons of boiling water.... allowing me to adjust the temp if needed.    (Now I have added a pump and a coil and pump the mash water through heated water if I need to add heat)

As mentioned elsewhere on this thread...  missing the temp, even by a lot, rarely has a signficant effect on the beer.

The Pub / Has Beer as a whole declining?
« on: December 23, 2014, 07:14:44 AM »
I just read an aricle listing the decline of some major big beer brands over the past few years, and I was wondering if beer as whole consumed in the US is on the decline?

I know craft beer is very much on the rise as far as per capita consumptioon, but these are some pretty big numbers craft beer would have to make up for!

Equipment and Software / Re: Small Refrigerator
« on: December 21, 2014, 10:19:47 AM »
Small dorm fridges/wine fridges can be found for about $200.  (Have to be very careful to find compressor humps that can accomodate)  That holds one bucket.  For $300 I bought a freezer from home depot that holds 6 to 8 buckets.    Most of the price is for the chilling part of the system...

I have both a dorm and a freezer now.  I ferment in the dorm/wine fridge and store kegs in the bigger freezer.  Long story short, go as big as the space allows...the relative cost is pretty much the same regardless of size.

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