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Messages - kylekohlmorgen

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1096
Ingredients / Re: Low gravity ideas....
« on: May 21, 2012, 11:41:20 AM »
I just did a no-sparge, low-gravity IPA a few weeks ago (~1.030). Quick, easy, and satisfying!

Basically used "Pliny the Toddler" malt bill with my normal IPA (~1.065) hop schedule. I don't think I'm going back to the bigger IPA...

I LOVE how it showcased hops with a clean, dry beer. A touch of grainy, biscuity malt flavor from high quality MO/pils keeps things interesting. Bitterness is sharp but clean - I adjusted to ~ 250 ppm SO4 and used all FWH and late hops to bitter.

 

1097
All Grain Brewing / Re: San Diego water for Pale Ale
« on: May 21, 2012, 09:58:20 AM »
If you want a little more knowledge on water, I found that the 4 podcasts on The Brewing Network's Brew Strong were fantastic. JP also has an article regarding brewing water in the latest issue of Zymurgy. The podcasts are pretty awesome though. If you have a few hours to sit around and listen to them, it is worth it. :)

The Basic Brewing podcast with Greg Noonan is a pretty good primer as well. I guess it all depends on how much you really want/care to know...

1098
Equipment and Software / Re: Tired of crappy therm and hydrometer
« on: May 21, 2012, 09:56:03 AM »
I do a one-point cal during the boil. My mash thermometer usually comes out at ~214-215F.

See if your LHBS has a calibrated water bath or something. If not, a REALLY crude alternative is to get a few of the same thermometers off the shelf and stick them in the same water. See if yours comes out somewhere in the middle.

Not scientific AT ALL, but it may give you some piece of mind.

Keep in mind that measuring to 1 deg F at such a wide range is a pretty hefty feat for any instrument, especially without regular calibration. If you can nail down a reasonable offset that's fairly consistent (i.e. adding 2-3F to your reading), you're still doing ok. Just keep watching for drift.

1099
All Grain Brewing / Re: San Diego water for Pale Ale
« on: May 21, 2012, 09:00:28 AM »
Before you get up in arms about your water, try it (undiluted) in your pale recipe. Then brew the same recipe with either your water diluted by half or with all distilled water.

Which do you like best? Tasting the differences is going to make a lot of sense out of all the water adjustment information out there.

(P.S. Either way, you'll need to adjust your water at some point. I agree - Bru'n Water is a great tool even if you're unfamiliar with water treatment)

1100
Equipment and Software / Re: Tired of crappy therm and hydrometer
« on: May 21, 2012, 08:55:05 AM »
Your thermometers were "off" compared to what? What was your reference temp?

1101
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Mixing Lager Yeasts - Pros and Cons
« on: May 21, 2012, 08:51:31 AM »
Typically speaking, when I want the characteristics of two or more yeasts in a beer, I'll ferment them separately and blend the beer together after fermentation. This way you'll be able to achieve the desirable characteristics of each yeast in a desired proportion in the finished beer.  I recently used this technique for a BDS using Trappist and Abbey Ale yeasts.  Amazing results.

Currently trying this with a Flanders Red/Lambic-type beer - half with Roselare, and half with a concoction of dregs. Otherwise the fresh strains in the Roselare take up too many sugars/nutrients and give off too much acidity to revive the several strains from the dregs.

Also gives me some room to blend, hopefully creating a Flanders and a lambic from the same wort. We'll see.

1102
Beer Recipes / Re: Possbile IPA recipe
« on: May 21, 2012, 08:18:00 AM »
+1 - throw in some yeast nutrient for CYA

1103
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: I always liked Tallgrass Beer
« on: May 21, 2012, 08:10:08 AM »
From the same website (didn't see it earlier):

A note on yeast: Tallgrass uses White Labs WLP007 Dry English Ale; with Tallgrass' blessing, we suggest Wyeast 1450 as the default option so customers (especially mail order customers) can more easily evaluate viability before brewing.


1104
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: yeast bummer
« on: May 21, 2012, 07:01:09 AM »
I'm always shocked when I calculate viability by mfg date with Mr. Malty, but it holds true.

Use it or lose it.

1105
I've really enjoyed following along this thread and reading about Drew's clubs' experiments with this method.

Nateo - how long should these cellar before you're ready to drink?

1106
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: I always liked Tallgrass Beer
« on: May 21, 2012, 06:56:16 AM »
The recipe on the NB site calls for WY1450 - are they using Denny's yeast in the brewery????

1107
Equipment and Software / Re: Tubing and autosiphons
« on: May 21, 2012, 06:41:09 AM »
Before removal, I do pump OxiClean and then StarSan through it...

Just remember to find the "Free and Clear" (unscented) OxiClean for brewing equipment...

(don't learn the hard way)

My "old" autosiphon/tubing gets marked with a permanent marker and used for wild ales. I have a few sets just in case one breaks or I ever need to fill a barrel...

1108
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Mixing Lager Yeasts - Pros and Cons
« on: May 21, 2012, 06:38:26 AM »
A few years ago, Sun King made a great Belgian Golden with what they said was a "mixture of 7 yeast strains". If I ever get a chance, I'd really like to ask the SK guys how they did this...

Can you match up the Belgian strains with similar behaviors/attenuation ranges this way? Kind of like Hopfen described with the PU strains.

If you dump enough yeast in, will it give you something different (and worth the price of all that yeast)?

1109
All Grain Brewing / Re: Wee Heavy mash temp
« on: May 21, 2012, 06:27:20 AM »
Getting ready to partigyle. According to Noonan, you are supposed to collect 13 qts sparge runnings and heat this for the second mash's strike? do I got that right?

Do you mean run the first runnings back through during the sparge?

1110
Sometimes I do line the bucket with a grain bag and lift it out slowly aftewards to pull almost all the hops/trub out.

THAT's a great idea!

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