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Messages - kylekohlmorgen

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All Grain Brewing / Re: Color contribution from decoction mashing?
« on: May 01, 2012, 01:44:24 PM »
Surprised Kai hasn't been on this yet!

All Grain Brewing / Re: Stupid high gravity brew
« on: May 01, 2012, 01:43:15 PM »
Sounds good - please update with how it goes - I don't feel like I see enough follow-up after a thread has run its course!

What a huge difference from the local water here in Jacksonville.  Nanofiltration looks pretty effective.

Is nanofiltration economically feasible on the homebrewer level?  on the local microbrewery level?  I'd imagine the filters get clogged up pretty quickly ("blinded").  How does AB keep the process cost-effective?  Is flushing/backwashing done to extend filter life?
Is nanofiltration "wasteful" like RO systems are?  I've heard one gets 1 gallon of RO water per 8 gallons of regular water.

Anybody know if distilling local water is practicable?  We get a lot of sunshine and warm temps here in Jacksonville, FL.  Any microbreweries or homebrewers already doing this?

The wastewater generated by filtration can be put to good use, so its not necessarily waste. Use it for cleaning. Most commercial RO units use their waste water for cleaning water, cooling tower makeup, irrigation, etc. (Martin - could you use the concentrate for making sanitizing solution?)

The payback on buying an advanced water treatment vs diluting with Drinking/Distilled water all depends on your batch size and how often you brew.

Look at how much water you would need to buy per brew session. Compare that to the cost of the purchase and upkeep of a treatment unit (replacement filters, including upstream charcoal filters and water/sewer costs). How many brewdays would it take you to pay off the unit? Does it become economical after that?

If those numbers don't favor buying the unit, is it favorable ENOUGH to get rid of the hassle of buying water before every brewday?

Its not that a nanofiltration unit is out of the homebrewer's reach or too complicated - its whether it actually pays to do it.

It is always best to measure the thing you are trying to control.

+1 - We did studies on fermentation temp profiles in college - it's surprising how much different a fermenting body of wort can vary in temp from inside to outside and from top to bottom.

I do think a plastic bucket allows for more accurate temp reads and more distributed temps when controlling the temp via ambient air temp changes (like a ferm. chamber).

I am confused, you have 2 sensors?

+1 again - what's the other one for?

All Grain Brewing / Re: My first dumper batch...
« on: May 01, 2012, 01:11:18 PM »
I used 3787 once in a tripel, and it had a strong solvent aroma and fair solvent flavor for about 4-6 months after fermentation subsided. I let it set for 8 months, then kegged/bottled, and entered it into a competition (I eventually added some house wild bugs for an interesting twist, but that's neither here nor there - but it is tasting AWESOME).

POINT IS - If its 2 months old and you haven't noticed any additional off flavors that would suggest contamination (baby diaper, etc. etc.), I would stash it in a cool place and wait.

Take note, though - just because Belgian yeasts produce desirable flavors over a wide range of temps, that doesn't mean you have to be any less diligent about providing them a healthy, consistent environment to ferment.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Stupid high gravity brew
« on: April 30, 2012, 08:27:40 PM »
I think making a beer THIS big with out pure O2 is risky business.

The WLP099 may be able to handle it, but without proper nutrition/aeration it may give you some funky resuts. I've never used this strain, but White Labs cautions that its finnicky and needs a lot of TLC to reduce off-flavors.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Stupid high gravity brew
« on: April 30, 2012, 03:15:52 PM »
...I have a couple pounds of DME, but I'm worried about the extract adding unfermentable sugar...

Since you're using 20% dextrose/turbinado with the WLP099, I think you're OK here. Meph IS pretty thick... does Avery use sugar when they brew it?

How about aeration? What's your plan? Seems like taking it to three steps would give you less of a window to aerate than if you started bigger, aerated longer into fermentation, and then dosed out those 2L of sugar solution at the end (DFH does it this way).

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Berlinner or Lambic?
« on: April 30, 2012, 02:49:57 PM »
Sounds like its going to make a great Berliner!

I would really like to hear how the no-boil and pitch at 100F combo works out. Will you please post your results?

PS - BJCP guidelines allow for a slight Brett aroma/flavor, which I prefer in this style. It would be interesting to see, if you entered it before and after the Brett took hold, which would be preferred by the judges.

Zymurgy / Re: "New Rules of Brewing Water" - Same as the old rules?
« on: April 30, 2012, 02:42:13 PM »
Sounds like a quote from someone who didn't understand how to use the tool.
I test my carbonate hardness by titration on every batch, so I'm not just assuming my water report is correct.

Now THAT's dedication!

But I agree its the only way to even get in the ballpark - the water here in Indy can change dramatically from week to week (an AWESOME little problem to have when designing an industrial RO system).

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Lacto and/or Brett Pitching
« on: April 27, 2012, 01:23:54 PM »
Rack it.

Letting a beer sit on the yeast is really only beneficial in a lambic fermentation - brett gets nutrients from flocc'd yeast over a long period (> 8 months or so). The Lacto acidification cycle doesn't benefit from a yeast cake, and the higher temperatures preferable to Lacto will speed autolysis.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: 1st round NHC results
« on: April 26, 2012, 07:29:20 PM »
...From what I see and taste from the National Homebrew Competition, there are far too many brewers entering beers that are not qualified to vie for the top brewing prize in the country (sorry MCAB, but you're relatively unnoticed in the brewing realm)...

I'm very competitive when brewing for competitions, but I also enter beers when I'm not confident they are winners. Its the only way to TRULY know if your recipe needs a tweak or an overhaul.

If a beer is clean and (at least) loosely fits into the style, and you think a few tweaks will make it great, enter it. Its a great way to get truly objective feedback. Also, it can flush out any flaws in your competition packaging procedure. Its good to work out the kinks before bottling up that spot-on batch.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Metal rod for measuring volume
« on: April 26, 2012, 06:36:19 PM »
I just use a (spare) tape measure and convert the height of the liquid to volume on a spreadsheet (or in my head if needed).

Post-cool volume measurement is taken from the top of the wort to the top of the kettle (to minimize sanitized wort contact).

Keep the tape clean. If you have a rounded-bottom on your kettle (keggle) you'll have to account for that and always take the measurement in the same place.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Lacto and/or Brett Pitching
« on: April 26, 2012, 06:30:04 PM »
In my opinion, it's critical to make an appropriate sized lactobacillus-only starter prior to wort creation.  The ideal lacto environment is @100 degrees.  That's nowhere near reasonable yeast fermentation temps.  If you need dependable sourness, you should make a lacto-only starter of at least one liter in size for every 5 gallons you are brewing.  Essentially, you are creating the sourness in advance.  I keep mine wrapped with a heating pad on high for 2 days prior to brewday and I pitch the lacto warm(@110) and let the temps gradually decrease to fermentation temps and then pitch the yeast.
I think this is the approach I will use the next time.
In the mean time, for your current batch, patience is the key.  Find a nice warm spot and let it sour naturally.

You could also pull of a few quarts of the first runnings into a santized container, put it in a warm place or on a heat pad, then add it back in after it sours (about 3-7 days). That would save you some time and a separate culture.

I said to be patient as well, but its Berliner season now! I think these quicker souring methods may be the route you want to take now, with a bit of planning in the future (or not!).

This is why I don't like "styles" of IPA - "American IPA" should have such a broader interpretation than it does. Judges should think of more examples than the west-coast 'style' (i.e. Two-Hearted, 60 Minute).

I'm a homebrewer, so I can make an IPA with Citra, EKG, Nelson Sauvin, Sorachi Ace, and a touch of Hallertau. And it would be delicious. Would it best an all-Citra of the same quality in BJCP competition?? Of course not - even though it would be more complex and unique.

Guess I just won't enter it this year. More IPA for me :)

Martin and Keith hit it on the head - 60-90 min boil will give you all the isomerization and SMM volitization that you need - ASSUMING you keep a good, rolling boil throughout.

Urquell probably had a longer boil because of an inefficient kettle OR because using a hard boil would create hot spots and darken the wort.

At home, if you've got a good, stainless or dense aluminum brewpot and adjust your air/gas valves for an efficient burn, a good, rolling boil without hotspots is easy to maintain. In fact, most homebrewers have to cut back on the boil intensity. (Martin actually pointed out to me that I was "boiling the Be-Jesus" out of a Saison at a Big Brew a few years ago - has since been corrected)

If you use a long boil to concentrate or carmelize wort, add the bittering hops no earlier than the 90-mark. I think hops (much like over-cooked vegetables) have a dull, papery, "vegetal" flavor.

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