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Messages - kylekohlmorgen

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526
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Hit me with your best Session IPA
« on: February 14, 2013, 11:59:15 AM »
1.040 OG

~ 35 IBU

45% German Pils
40% Pale
10% Munich
5% Flaked Barley

~ 200 ppm SO4

Use your favorite IPA recipe's hopping schedule, types AND quantities, only backing off bittering hops to 35 IBU.

Dryhop: at least 4 oz near the end of primary, 3 days total. I like cascade, centennial, and chinook, but use what you like.


527
Ingredients / Re: Oak a Chocolate Imperial Stout
« on: February 14, 2013, 10:57:32 AM »
With oak and stouts, I think less about the flavors that work together (because they most often do) and think about the flavors that may clash.

For instance - if your stout has an assertive roasty flavor (on the high end of the style, almost astringent), then heavily toasted oak may make the beer overly astringent. Go with light or medium toasted oak instead.

FWIW - I think medium toasted french oak is a solid choice for most oak-aged beers. Just buy the stuff thats already toasted so you don't have to worry about over toasting or unevenly toasting. Sanitize by boiling it in a few changes of water.

528
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Open air fermentation
« on: February 14, 2013, 10:40:35 AM »
Corners are also the antichrist in sanitary equipment. You just need to be careful that you've got soft, rounded internal edges rather than a 90 degree point. I think the Rubbermaid has that all around.

529
All Grain Brewing / Re: where do you take mash pH?
« on: February 14, 2013, 10:34:16 AM »
The necessity to cool the sample is something I've never really understood.

If the change in pH with change in temperature is linear, why couldn't you just adjust the mash temperature reading?

Also - if the above is feasible, would you calibrate your sensor at mash temp?

530
Going Pro / Re: Pro Brewery Efficiency
« on: February 13, 2013, 05:08:31 AM »
Ask your vendors, then subtract 10% or so for raw material pricing/ordering at first.

Just like in homebrew, efficiency can hinge on the operator and process as much as the equipment.

531
Going Pro / Re: Beer Smith, Scaling, & Going Pro
« on: February 13, 2013, 05:05:35 AM »
(from the previous post on scaling):

The Brewing Network has a few great referencs, both on CYBI and Brew Strong.

For CYBI - look up the show on Pro-AM beers - JZ talks a lot about making commercial beer from a homebrew recipe. Also, you can get some idea of how hop utilization/extraction scales from pro to homebrew by listening to the Firestone Walker shows. Tasty talks about how he replicates the whirl pool on a homebrew scale. You can use the info in reverse.

For Brew Strong - I can't remember the show name, but if you look through their "Going Pro" series there is a show on equipment or recipe building, or both.

Hope this helps!

532
All Things Food / Re: My new Love affair with Pho
« on: February 13, 2013, 05:04:05 AM »
I know I live in Southern California and I know that here menudo is supposed to be the king high of hangover foods. (Personally I prefer machaca con huevos.)

But damned if pho doesn't beat the pants off menudo for curing you of everything wrong. Personally, I tend to go for the #1 pho, which seems to be in every restaurant the pho that contains all the weird s*** you don't want to know about!

Hangover + Pho + nap = Good to Go

Always struggled pairing a beverage with Pho. Any suggestions? Kinda thought Brooklyn's Local 1 might be a decent pick.

Speaking of - I'll look up Garrett Oliver's book when I get home.

533
Ingredients / Re: honey malt
« on: February 11, 2013, 10:28:31 AM »
Try it in a Kolsch, blonde, or cream ale... a bare-bones beer is a great way to test new ingredients!

534
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: NHC 2013 Pre Conference Events
« on: February 07, 2013, 06:18:40 AM »
*Crosses Fingers*

Beer Dinner at Monk's Cafe?

Here's Hoping!

535
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: yeast starter temperature and gravity
« on: February 06, 2013, 03:08:34 PM »
I'd say the BCS info is the more current method.

+1

This method is echoed in "Yeast"

536
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: The Mad Fermentationist's Top 10 Myths
« on: February 06, 2013, 03:07:07 PM »
Two weeks ago I had the last bottle of an old ale I brewed in 2006, how many people still have beers they kegged more than six years ago?

You gotta really commit to aging a beer in a keg - its REALLY easy to pull a half empty keg of old RIS or sour beer and put it on tap when you've hit a dry spell.

Its also hard to keep a bit of aging beer in a keg when you're full and don't want to buy another!

I've always thought it was worth the benefits (always able to blend, no risk of oxidation, etc.). My wife, OTOH, would rather see a case of old bottles than the herd of kegs in the basement!

537
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Pouring First Runnings Back into Mash Tun
« on: February 06, 2013, 10:54:22 AM »
I have done it for the experience. The benefit you gain, after following the above procedure, is that the first runnings wort is full of enzymes that get right to work on the new grain. The end result for me was that I ended up with a sticky wort at 1.120. The end beer fermented very nicely and has been aging. The one bottle we cracked is delightfully smooth.

Do you think you create a superior beer with the double mash as opposed to a similar first-runnings beer?

538
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: The Mad Fermentationist's Top 10 Myths
« on: February 06, 2013, 10:52:21 AM »
And let's not forget, in most cases kegged beer tastes better!

REALLY struggling to find an example of when bottle conditioning produces better beer than draft.

I don't buy it for sours or high-gravity, "ageable" beers. Unless you're trying to save cellar space or don't want to invest in kegs to age beers.

539
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: age 6 months in bucket, lid won't seal
« on: February 06, 2013, 09:15:48 AM »
I wouldn't store any beer in a bucket for 6 weeks, let alone 6 months!

Trying it now - kind of a "Homebrew Horny Tank". So far, so good!

540
Going Pro / Re: Product costing and overhead application
« on: February 06, 2013, 09:12:58 AM »
So basically: fermentors = lost revenue (if the demand is there).

Your most interesting point is how to put a value to more expensive/labor intensive/time intensive beers. I think most brewers price with their respective markets, but going through this exercise would give you a good idea if you were going to take a loss before you started a project.

You might also tweak it to show the actual cost of switching up something in your process: adding a new yeast strain, adding a new beer style, comparing investment opportunities (buy a fermentor vs something else) etc.

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