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Messages - kylekohlmorgen

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61
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Adding Dextrin for Brett
« on: October 03, 2014, 07:32:43 AM »
Why?

Brett doesn't need dextrin to contribute flavor.

Think about Orval, Boulevard Saison Brett, Jolly Pumpkin beers. Huge brett flavor in beers that have been fully fermented by Saccharomyces yeast in primary.

Just pitch the blend and let it go.

62
Ingredients / Re: Medusa Hops
« on: October 01, 2014, 11:28:04 AM »
Dryhop

63
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Keg hopping frustration
« on: October 01, 2014, 09:53:33 AM »
Make sure you're getting the right mesh bag. The disposable muslin lets too much through, and I've seen two resuable bags marketed as 'fine mesh' - one for hops, the other for specialty grains.

Here is the one I use for hops (and occasionally filtering hops/trub from my kettle into the fermentor):

http://morebeer.com/products/bag-6-8-mesh-hop.html

You shouldn't get much bleed through with this bag.

If you're using this type of bag (and don't have any holes) then your drawsting may be coming loose. I tie the drawstring tight first (with a few half passes), then make a few knots of fishing line overtop and underneath the drawstring, tightening with pliers.

I've also never been able to get a good seal w/ fishing line through the lid. I use a (clean) fishing bobber and lightly weigh down the bag so its completely submerged but not taking down the bobber.




64
Have you tried dry hopping in the keg?

I've always got the cleanest (least stemmy/vegetal) dry hop flavor from dry hopping in the keg at kegorator temps (~45F). I know this breaks away from most commercial and homebrew practices, but its what works for me.

I add 1-2 oz and taste often, usually pulling the bag after a week or two (depending on the type of hops/beer). If I want more dryhop character, I'll repeat the process.

65
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: fall/winter beer styles
« on: September 25, 2014, 07:58:30 AM »
Did Barleywine make the list? You can brew one for next winter...

I dig on Flanders Red / Oud Bruin during the holidays. Especially those on the higher end of ABV, aged in bourbon barrels. Boulevard's 'Love Child' series is perfect for the holidays. Again, you'll be making one now for next year.

Dubbel and Dark Mild are good ideas for this year

66
If you have a heat-safe blender, pull a quart or two of wort from the boil into the carafe, puree, then add back.

I've never used PB2, but this is how I go about adding raisins/dates to the boil.

You could also use an immersion blender, just use a high-sided pot and be extra careful not to splash.

67
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Suggestions for wild yeast
« on: September 23, 2014, 07:05:32 AM »
Limit aeration and oxygen pickup - its easy to get too much acetobacter from 'wild' inoculation.

Pickup American Sour Beers. Lots of info on culturing, maintaining, and brewing with wild cultures.

68
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: AIPA yeast: Fruity Esters or Clean & Crisp?
« on: September 23, 2014, 07:02:56 AM »
I would normally jump at "clean and crisp", but most of my favorite commercial IPAs are brewed with an estery yeast:

FW Union Jack/Double Jack (IMO esters are very noticeable in the Double)
Stone IPA (although they suppress esters w/ temp, pitch rate, etc)
Schlafly AIPA/TIPA (I think their house yeast is an English-style yeast)

I like using 1968 in my American-style beers just because it drops like a rock. I can dial in esters with fermentation control and attenuation w/ grist bill (sugar).

69
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Vienna/Octoberfest Maltiness
« on: September 08, 2014, 11:22:03 AM »
I get a hefty amount of bread crust and graham cracker aroma/flavor from the Best Munich 10L. Really nice malt.

The BCS recipe calls for Pils base with smaller amounts of Munich 10L and Vienna (maybe a touch of Caramunich?), which (IMO) strikes a good balance of mid-range (nutty, graham) and light (saltine, cheerios) malt flavors.

I'd rather use more Munich and no CaraMunich. So many domestic versions are overly rich/sweet (ala Sam Adams). Did you find that during judging?

70
Beer Recipes / Re: PNW American Sour
« on: September 05, 2014, 12:38:56 PM »
Cool. I guess in the new Bjcp guidelines this would be a 28B.

Cascadian Sour Ale?  ::)

Be patient Jim.  You will start noticing the aroma first, but it takes a while (3 months minimum in my experience) before you will detect any real tartness in the beer.  Good Luck!

Pitching a healthy amount of Wyeast 5335 without yeast, I've gotten berliner-levels of acidity in 10 days or so. It can also take several weeks/months. Depends on hop charge, starter size/health and temperature. Jim's got the right idea w/ a decent starter and keepin' her warm. I would think 2 oz of hops would really slow lacto down, though. If you want hop character, dry hop.

You could start a bit higher (100F) because the temp will fall off little by little. Tasting should tell you when its ready to cool/pitch yeast.

71
Homebrew Clubs / Re: Leftover competition entries
« on: September 05, 2014, 12:30:51 PM »
2) If you have enough volunteers, have them sort the extra beers by keeping 30+ scores and dumping the 29 and belows. We have a crew that dumps bottles and stacks them for other people to take home.

We did this for STL Microfest, but I'd like to bump it up to 35 next year. A lot less to sort thru before finding that 40 pointer  8).

Tasting the leftovers was one of my favorite parts of the Philly NHC, and I was disappointed that we didn't get the opportunity in GR. Fantastic learning experience for judges.

72
All Grain Brewing / Re: Saison maturing/aging
« on: September 05, 2014, 09:54:03 AM »
Assuming a 5 gallon batch in the kettle, that's hop load yields > 45 IBU, which is REALLY bitter for a beer with such a dry finish (and moderate ABV).

Next time, I would either cut down on the bittering addition, or just move the additions to later in the boil (15 min and around KO). You can bring up the final gravity a few points just by replacing some/all of the honey with base malt. At that starting gravity, 3711 will attenuate below 1.005 without any simple sugar.

The bitterness will fade, but so will the spices. If you've got the room, might as well store them and see what happens!

73
Equipment and Software / Re: Mini fridge
« on: September 04, 2014, 02:04:18 PM »
I currently just lay the copper probe in the bottom of the freezer, suspend a thermometer next to the carboy and adjust the thermostat until the thermometer reads what I want.

You're saying I should instead suspend the probe or wrap it in insulation instead of placing it in a small or large amount of water?  I finally got a 7 cu ft freezer for fermentation temperature control and want to make sure I'm doing it correctly. Thanks!

You want to measure/control the temperature of the fermenting beer. Fermentation produces heat, enough to increase beer temp 5-10F under normal conditions without active cooling. You're using the freezer to remove that heat and keep the beer temperature constant.

Sensing a rise in temp of air around the carboy means the carboy is already warm enough to transfer heat to the air, which means temperature inside the carboy has already increased.

This is why I suggested the thermowell, and attaching the probe to the side of the fermentor is another option. I use both methods (I tape the probe to the side of plastic buckets).

You've got the right equipment to actively (properly) control fermentation temp; now all you have to do is stick the probe in the right place. Cheers!

74
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Roeselare
« on: September 03, 2014, 07:35:19 AM »
Good tangent. Can a bug pro answer his question about bugs eating the sac yeast? If they do, what is the point of racking off the trub to secondary? Especially if secondarying for a long period of time?
I am not a pro, but with these styles of beers my thinking is that everything you know is wrong (comparing to normal brewingpractices).

Conduct a mash that leaves a lot of starch. Use 3 year old hops exposed to the air.
Expose wort to the air overnight.
Put into barrels that are inoculated.
Allow Pedio to do its thing, but depend on Brett to clean up Diacetyl after the Pedio.
Allow a little O2 into the beer as it ages in the barrels.
And the bugs and critters will eat the leftovers from the yeast as the autolysis happens.

Compare and contrast to usual practice.

Unconverted starch is metabolized by pedio (and potentially brett, but much slower, if at all).

In Flanders-style sours, you're looking to get most of the acidity from Lactobacillus, so residual starch is unnecessary. For the same reason, aged hops should not be used, since their purpose in lambic is to inhibit Lacto.

These beers hit their peak earlier than lambic, and so the wort is brewed to accommodate. You don't want starch or the level of unfermentables produced by a turbid mash w/ lots of unmalted wheat. You DO want dextrin and flavor from crystal malts, and increased body/foam from a touch of oats or wheat.

It's on its way to be good for a first try. Unless the sour really comes on from behind, I think next time I will pitch lactic warm for the first week, then the roesalare. Or better yet, lactic then abbey then age on Brett.

This has become my SOP. I've actually started leaving sacch. out of the mix altogether and conducting 'primary' (alcoholic) fermentation with bretta (unless a gnarly bottling strain has survived in my mixed culture, which I doubt).

75
Equipment and Software / Re: Super cheap pH meter
« on: September 03, 2014, 07:17:25 AM »
Even if it's a throwaway meter after a handful of uses, that's perfectly fine with me. I'm just looking to spot-check a few of my usual recipes to verify that the water calculators are accurate enough for me.

Why not use pH strips to spot check?

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