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Messages - kylekohlmorgen

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Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Sour Golden Strong ECY 001
« on: March 12, 2013, 09:40:30 AM »
How is the roeselare blend? How sour does it get?

The initial pitch of this blend is pretty unremarkable.

If you continue to use the dregs, the results get MUCH better. Sourness picks up as well depth.

I like the amount of sour I get from the lambic blend, but I don't care for the flavor profile. I'd like to try it in combo with different brett strains or mixed cultures.

Equipment and Software / Re: PID autotune question
« on: March 11, 2013, 11:27:28 AM »
I think as long as you set the water flowrate to approximately what your recirc rate will be during a mash, it should work just fine.

Make sure you start the auto-tune after you've got the flowrate adjusted and the water around mash temps.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: racking to limit attenuation
« on: March 11, 2013, 07:25:20 AM »
I tend to do everything I can to make sure the yeast complete the full cycle of fermentation. If you halt yeast activity early, whether on purpose or by accident, you risk fermentation off-flavors such as butter (diacetyl) or astringent green apple (acetylaldehyde). This is especially true in a lager fermentation.

I'd rather have a beer that is clean but too dry than one that has the proper finishing gravity but is flawed by one of the above flavors.

If you are kegging: After fermentation is complete and the yeast have cleaned up their by-products, you can add potassium sorbate to kill the yeast and then back-sweeten with more honey. Adding honey after fermentation is a great way to get honey flavor and aroma (kind of like dry-hopping with honey, while adding gravity/sugars).

If you're bottling: at bottling, add maltodextrin along with your priming sugar and bottling yeast. Figure out the amount of MD powder needed to add the desired gravity points to your bottling volume. Dissolve the powder with your priming sugar.

Equipment and Software / Re: promash vs beersmith vs others
« on: March 06, 2013, 02:10:25 PM »

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Souring a Berliner Weisse
« on: March 06, 2013, 02:09:01 PM »
A lacto starter has been the most consistent souring method for me. I pitch a 5/1 ratio of lacto to sacc at ale temps. Great acidity within a week, and no less complex a beer than one produced with a lengthy secondary acid fermentation or a sour mash.

The lacto culture from Wyeast or White Labs is a bit more expensive to start, but its reliable and can be kept alive in a few liters of starter wort.

I got the pitch ratio from a 2012 NHC presentation. Definitely worth a listen:

Ingredients / Re: My Recent Experience with Citra
« on: March 06, 2013, 02:00:48 PM » wife had one pint of Three Floyd's all-Citra Zombie Dust APA and told me I must brew something similar...

I. LOVE. THIS. BEER. In a small enough place, you can smell it before the bartender sets it on the bar.

Maybe its because its ALWAYS fresh, but they're doing some special things with hops at 3F.

Equipment and Software / Re: promash vs beersmith vs others
« on: March 06, 2013, 01:46:29 PM »
Try BeerSmith for Free.

Never look back.

Now if only someone invented an app to convert my old ProMash recipe files  ;D

Equipment and Software / Re: Chiller to pond pump question
« on: March 06, 2013, 01:45:23 PM »
As for the pump, don't buy a little "pond pump" unless that sucker is at least 1/3HP. Get a "submersible pump" with at least that rating. If you cannot get the velocity of flow through your chiller, you are not using the whole chiller capacity. It can make a big difference, especially when you have had the opportunity to use the proper setup.

From experience: do your homework on a pond pump. Its a great tool to have (I use one for chilling as well), but most are not built to last. has customer reviews for all of their brands. Most reviews will point out that the pump lasts 6-12 months before giving out. Pick up the one that has a reputation for a longer lifetime. Price point doesn't necessarily reflect quality, either.

Most pond pumps are rated by Gallons Per Hour (GPH) rather than HP. Some models don't even give HP with their specs. I think I bought a 560 GPH model, and it provided plenty of flow through my 3/4" IC.

IMO: Copper ain't no big thang on the brewhouse side.

I normally bottle from a keg, mostly because I'm a HUGE fan of secondary fermentation and/or conditioning in kegs.

And comparatively - bottle conditioning is a PITA.

I'm actually finishing up a blog post about this right now. It mostly pertains to sour beers, but the pros and cons can be applied to any beer.

I'll update this thread when I finish the post - hopefully by next week. Promise I'm not just out for the shameless plug.

All Grain Brewing / Re: adding sulfate to my SNPA clone
« on: March 01, 2013, 08:28:28 AM »
If I don't need to adjust pH in the mash (most of the time), I add flavor salts in the boil.

Just make sure that if you're using a spreadsheet/calculator, you calculate ion concentrations based on your actual pre-boil volume. I think its pretty easy to mistakenly use your mash volume or your expected boil volume and over-estimate salt additions.

Ingredients / Re: Today's question...
« on: March 01, 2013, 07:15:13 AM »
Yeast express those ale-like flavors during growth phase. In bottle conditioning, the yeast don't have much of a growth phase, so flavor contributions should be fairly limited. A local brewer uses their wit yeast to bottle condition their sour beers, and I have never picked up yeast derived flavors (from this yeast, anyway) in them.

Use a packet of S-05, which is a fairly clean yeast. My only issue with it is that its somewhat powdery, but it'll settle with some time in the fridge. I use dry champagne yeast for higher ABV beers.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Belle Saison Dry Yeast
« on: March 01, 2013, 06:34:00 AM »
This yeast is a BEAST so far... from 62F - 68F in 36 hours, still fermenting away at 70F (I pitched on Sunday night).

The recipe was an uber-simple saison:

1.060 OG. 70/30 Belgian Pils to flaked wheat as a base, a touch of aromatic, and 1 lb of honey (~15% of total fermentables). 40BUs Apollo at 60 min. No late hops.

Rehydrated one packet (per Danstar's instructions) and pitched. Shook to aerate. Placed in ferm. chamber with cooling set to 72F.

I normally don't just let the fermentation temp go (at least through the first 48 hours), but that's what a lot of brewers advice on saison yeast. I've heard of many homebrewers taking the same approach, whether they are taking cues from the pros or simply dont have temp control and brew saisons in the summer.

Either way - it should be a good test of this yeast's attenuation ability and flavor profile. Updates coming.

Ingredients / Re: Natural Spring water vs Distilled water
« on: February 28, 2013, 10:55:49 AM »
The best thing to do with the well water is to send off samples for testing for each season. Don't remember who does it- think they are called Wards. This way one will know the mineral makeup of their water and then can plug the info into bru'n water or palmer's spreadsheet.

Or just brew with it and see what happens...

If you like the taste of your water, you'll probably like the taste of the resulting beer.

Going Pro / Re: Starting a brewery
« on: February 27, 2013, 11:53:07 AM »
I, on the other hand, would like those people to get funded, buy equipment, and *then* fail. ;)

Yeah, I suspect there's going to be a lot of dirt cheap 3-7bbl brewhouses for sale in about 3-4 years, when the current crop of under-capitalized breweries goes under.

On the other other hand - Imagine what the average, hands-on experience-lacking, do-it-yourselfer has managed to rig up in all the pinches he/she got into...

Most used processing/packaging equipment that I've come across has been my. worst. nightmare.

On the bright side, I learned a whole lot of "what not to do".

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: dry yeast for rye ipa
« on: February 27, 2013, 09:11:21 AM »
For my tastes, I wouldn't use T-58 for anything that has "IPA" in the name.  IMO, 05 would be the way to go.

Is T-58 more of a saison yeast or a classic Belgian Abbey-type yeast? I read a few descriptors online, but didn't get a whole lot of specifics.

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