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Messages - kylekohlmorgen

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661
I don't think there's a conflict; I think you have some choices based on what the end product tastes like:

Is the beer sour/funky/complex enough to qualify as a fruited lambic? If so - 17F. If you just used a Flanders blend like Roselare, this probably isn't the case.

If the base beer was a really solid stylistic example of an Oud Bruin, and the raspberries add complexity without masking the base style, go with 16E.

If its a well-balanced beer that doesn't neatly fit into either of the above, go with Fruit Beer.

662
Going Pro / Re: blending beers
« on: March 18, 2013, 10:23:18 AM »
Blending is an art unto itself, one I am completely incompetent about thus far...

I think it takes a lot of practice, just like training your palate for BJCP judging or a Cicerone cert.

I like to blend beers I have on tap in the glass, trying to guess the outcome beforehand. Most of the time the blend isn't something to be desired, but I think going through the process is good practice.

Maybe after doing it for YEARS I'll be able to apply it to entire batches without ruining them.

663
Ingredients / Re: Hop to complement Citra?
« on: March 14, 2013, 11:08:12 AM »
Isn't Zombie Dust all Citra?


Complement to Citra = MORE CITRA.

664
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: London Ale vs American Ale
« on: March 14, 2013, 10:27:55 AM »
1056 is a super-fast starter for me, but I've always attributed it to the freshness of the culture. Its probably the best seller at my LHBS, so its normally 2-3 weeks old off the shelf.

I also assumed its youth was the reason I can squeeze 1-2 more batches out of a cake than the other yeasts I use.

665
All Things Food / Re: Growing food - The Garden Thread
« on: March 13, 2013, 05:27:21 AM »
Its depressing to read The Garden Thread when we're currently getting 2"-3" of snow  :'(

I actually just like the pictures - the wife and I have a hard enough time growing grass and shrubs.

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What yeast you use Al?

The pepper beer sounds good.

I made the Vienna lager and then made a light lager and for some reason I didn't set the MrMalty calculator to lager and just pitched a vial of mexi-lager yeast in 3gal of wort.  I figure this one might just be a large starter for the next batch, I'm even debating whether to take it out of the 50F fermentor chamber and let it run hot to get it done faster.  Any hope for this beer being drinkable?

You should be okay - creep up the temp slowly and do a long diacetyl rest. Rack it to a keg and "lager" in your kegorator if you can. That way you keep up the experiment without taking up any fermentor space.

You could also krausen with that next batch of lager if this one needs a bit of cleaning up.

667
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Sour Golden Strong ECY 001
« on: March 13, 2013, 05:12:10 AM »
How is the roeselare blend? How sour does it get?

The initial pitch of this blend is pretty unremarkable.
Wow, I totally disagree.  I only ever use a fresh pitch, and I think it is outstanding.  Maybe I need to try repitching to see what could possibly make the outstanding look unremarkable. ;)

I guess the "unremarkable" was relative. I did a side by side with a Flanders Red recipe: 5-gal with only a pitch of Roselare and 5-gal with a mixed pitch of Jolly Pumpkin, Cuvee Renee, and Upland dregs. Just proving to myself that maintaining mixed cultures from bottle dregs was worth the effort.

The next batches into these fermenters were both superior to their predecessors, and with the initial batches a year older in kegs, I had four batches to blend!

Didn't take the opportunity to use the same cakes for a third go-around - I'm still really curious on how many batches I can do before quality drops off for one reason or another.

668
Beer Recipes / Re: Potential Parti-gyle Blackberry Wheat Recipe Help
« on: March 12, 2013, 10:26:28 AM »
Good to know,  I found an extract at my LHBS.  they also sell canned puree.  Should i assume the puree will react the same way as the fresh fruit?

IME - the canned purees (normally in the wine section) of my LHBS are fantastic. And it saves you from pureeing/sifting fresh fruit yourself.

I've done exactly one fresh blackberry beer. I spent a lot of money at the Farmers Market, got a low yield of puree, and still ended up with seeds in my beer (but not much blackberry flavor OR color).

If you want the fruit to be the main attraction, you're going to need a lot of puree - more than you think. The flavor is quite mellow. When I make fruit beer, I add it to the keg. I'll buy 4 3-lb cans of puree, add two, and then continue adding one at a time until the flavor is to my liking. With blackberry, I wouldn't be surprised to add all 12 lbs.

Just like adding lemon juice to a fruity cocktail or dessert, adding the zest of a lemon or two will punch up the fruity flavor.

669
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: racking to limit attenuation
« on: March 12, 2013, 09:50:01 AM »
The yeast will clean up, or take back up, things like diacetyl at the end of fermentation. The thing is...to do so, the yeast have to be active and in suspension. Since you cold crashed your secondary and sent your yeast to the bottom (dormant), they will not have the chance to do so.
I am not convinced that this is 100% the case - I believe it will slow, but not stop the process.  I think it comes down to surface area and availability.  By cold crashing you massively reduce the surface area of yeast exposed to the beer.  You also drastically reduce that yeasts' exposure to compounds that need to get cleared up.  During an active or semi active fermentation the CO2 bubbling out is constantly mixing the beer, so the non-flocculating yeast and the compounds like diacetyl are being mixed throughout.  When the beer has been chilled and CO2 is no longer coming out, the compounds have to diffuse through the beer to come into contact with the yeast, which is now mostly at the bottom.  So I think it is these two factors, combined with the lower yeast activity due to the cold, that keep the yeast from cleaning up the beer.  And I don't mean to minimize the decreased activity due to the lower temperature, but it is not zero.

Makes a lot of sense.

Tom - do you think this is why you don't need a diacetyl rest with more powdery yeasts like WLP001/1056? Or is it that some yeasts are just better at completing fermentation in less-than-ideal conditions?

670
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Sour Golden Strong ECY 001
« on: March 12, 2013, 09:40:30 AM »
How is the roeselare blend? How sour does it get?

The initial pitch of this blend is pretty unremarkable.

If you continue to use the dregs, the results get MUCH better. Sourness picks up as well depth.

I like the amount of sour I get from the lambic blend, but I don't care for the flavor profile. I'd like to try it in combo with different brett strains or mixed cultures.

671
Equipment and Software / Re: PID autotune question
« on: March 11, 2013, 11:27:28 AM »
I think as long as you set the water flowrate to approximately what your recirc rate will be during a mash, it should work just fine.

Make sure you start the auto-tune after you've got the flowrate adjusted and the water around mash temps.

672
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: racking to limit attenuation
« on: March 11, 2013, 07:25:20 AM »
I tend to do everything I can to make sure the yeast complete the full cycle of fermentation. If you halt yeast activity early, whether on purpose or by accident, you risk fermentation off-flavors such as butter (diacetyl) or astringent green apple (acetylaldehyde). This is especially true in a lager fermentation.

I'd rather have a beer that is clean but too dry than one that has the proper finishing gravity but is flawed by one of the above flavors.

If you are kegging: After fermentation is complete and the yeast have cleaned up their by-products, you can add potassium sorbate to kill the yeast and then back-sweeten with more honey. Adding honey after fermentation is a great way to get honey flavor and aroma (kind of like dry-hopping with honey, while adding gravity/sugars).

If you're bottling: at bottling, add maltodextrin along with your priming sugar and bottling yeast. Figure out the amount of MD powder needed to add the desired gravity points to your bottling volume. Dissolve the powder with your priming sugar.

673
Equipment and Software / Re: promash vs beersmith vs others
« on: March 06, 2013, 02:10:25 PM »

674
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Souring a Berliner Weisse
« on: March 06, 2013, 02:09:01 PM »
A lacto starter has been the most consistent souring method for me. I pitch a 5/1 ratio of lacto to sacc at ale temps. Great acidity within a week, and no less complex a beer than one produced with a lengthy secondary acid fermentation or a sour mash.

The lacto culture from Wyeast or White Labs is a bit more expensive to start, but its reliable and can be kept alive in a few liters of starter wort.

I got the pitch ratio from a 2012 NHC presentation. Definitely worth a listen:

http://www.homebrewersassociation.org/pages/lets-brew/homebrewing-seminars/2012?cid=FdLNrG%2bg6pA519kcsIMI7w%3d%3d&redirect=http://www.homebrewersassociation.org/pages/lets-brew/homebrewing-seminars/2012

675
Ingredients / Re: My Recent Experience with Citra
« on: March 06, 2013, 02:00:48 PM »
...my wife had one pint of Three Floyd's all-Citra Zombie Dust APA and told me I must brew something similar...

I. LOVE. THIS. BEER. In a small enough place, you can smell it before the bartender sets it on the bar.

Maybe its because its ALWAYS fresh, but they're doing some special things with hops at 3F.

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