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Messages - kylekohlmorgen

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766
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Key to creamy stouts
« on: January 29, 2013, 07:19:03 AM »
+1 Flaked barley/oats/wheat

767
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Free rise temp for Belgian strong?
« on: January 29, 2013, 07:13:15 AM »
I don't like it that high for my tastes, but I've always thought of 70F as the fusel "breaking point", esp. if its already rising on its own.

Its easier to keep control than take control.

768
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Hennepin Clone Yeast Question??
« on: January 29, 2013, 07:08:39 AM »
If you want the Ommegang strain, the best source is from Rare Vos  or BPA. They use the same yeast but are lower in ABV, so they will yield more viable cells.

I have heard this somewhere. I believe it was on an episode of CYBI, but I'm not sure...

769
Going Pro / Re: "House" Yeast Strain
« on: January 28, 2013, 07:54:04 AM »
What I want to say is: Learn your yeast and try different temperatures. Learn how to harvest and handle your yeast with your equipment.

I've heard this advice many times before. For the most part, I've stopped experimenting with new yeast and stuck to repeatedly using 3 or 4 strains (1056, 1214, 1968, and 3711, if you're interested).

I LOVE 1056 because its damn-near bullet proof and can be repitched several times, but it is a PITA to get clear (usually I get one or two 'brilliant' pints before the keg kicks).

OTOH I love 1968 for its ester production in milds/bitters, but I haven't experimented with it enough to find its limits (performance at lower temps, performance after multiple pitches). Not so much concerned with ester profile in pale/IPA/browns, since FW uses it throughout their lineup.

770
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: APA...Great Flavor...Poor Aroma
« on: January 28, 2013, 07:43:54 AM »
The majority of aroma is going to come in additions after the boil: Whirlpool and dry hop additions.

Everyone has their opinions on late/dry hop additions (times, temps, procedures), but however you do it - it needs to be done for hop aroma of any significance.

771
Ingredients / Re: Flaked Maize Storage
« on: January 25, 2013, 01:28:33 PM »
Freshness is huge with corn (think about reheating corn grits a few days later).

Flaked corn is cheap - just pitch it.

772
Equipment and Software / Re: chilling a 30-gal batch
« on: January 25, 2013, 01:22:16 PM »
I used to run 45 gallon batches through my Chillzilla and March pump w/no problems. I would just run over to fermentor and pitch the next AM if the water wasn't cold enough.


Looks like those kegs are attached. I kept wondering what they were for!?

Same here. I thought, "Man - those are some BIG ASS HOPBACKS"

...glad I'm not the only one...

773
Going Pro / Re: "House" Yeast Strain
« on: January 25, 2013, 01:17:59 PM »
It's hard to deal with other strains because I don't have any means to propagate yeast aside from the fermentor so if I am going to brew one 15 bbl of 1.090 quad I need to start w/an existing slurry and it's not just as easy as deciding to throw in another style to grow up yeast because you need tap handles and/or labels for that beer and I don't want to waste an entire brewday making up a yeast starter.

So, if I want to add a different strain I need to either add a new flagship beer or a yeast propagation set up. For my Belgians I am actually considering adding a belgian Pale ale so that I can change the strain to what I prefer in my higher gravity Belgians.

Makes a lot of sense, and a hurdle that might be present for most new breweries. Why buy a prop. vessel when that money could go towards another fermentor/more kegs/etc.?

774
Ingredients / Re: Prefered base malt for brewing?
« on: January 25, 2013, 06:50:02 AM »
I like to use a house blend for almost all my recipes, unless I'm going for a truly traditional take on a beer (ESB, pils, Bock).

40% Rahr 2-row
40% Wey. Pils
20% Munich

I can increase the Munich for "malty-ness" and color, the Pils for delicate beers, or the 2-row if there is a lot of specialty malts or total fermentables (which drown out the pils anyway).

775
Going Pro / "House" Yeast Strain
« on: January 25, 2013, 05:33:40 AM »
All you commercial brewers (or aspiring commercial brewers) out there,

What did you decide on for your "house" yeast strain? How did you choose? Did you just use the one you were most familiar with?

I'd like to think my homebrew recipes will eventually turn into commercial brews, so its something I'd like to start giving thought to...

776
Beer Recipes / Re: double batch
« on: January 14, 2013, 02:39:54 PM »
If you can mash the whole batch run the total wort volume off into a couple of carboys and boil it in batches.  Blend it together and pitch.

But to answer your original question, if you're planning on doing them a little bit apart, I would pitch the correct amount of yeast for the whole batch into the first one.  You probably want to get the second one in there before a couple days though.

This seems to be the easier method, but I wouldn't let the un-hopped, high gravity wort sit overnight. You'll have a stinky sour mash going by morning.

If you've got a fresh yeast cake lying around, just boil, cool, and transfer one half at a time. Long day, but it will net 5 gallons of BW.

You can also do as you said and space the brews a few days apart. Just make sure you make an adequate starter for the 1st three gallons, add the second batch at high krausen, and keep control of your temps!

777
Ingredients / Re: boil volume question
« on: January 14, 2013, 02:25:36 PM »
Wouldn't it be easier to just figure out how to reduce your evaporation rate?

You said your large kettle contributed to this; can you adjust your burner?

I would think such an active boil would contribute off-flavors, even if you figured out how to compensate with more water. You also will probably save some cash in propane refills and bottle water!

778
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Brett dosed trippel
« on: January 14, 2013, 02:18:00 PM »
What's the gravity reading? How's it taste?

Let these two things always guide when you should rack/bottle/etc.

779
Ingredients / Re: To Hop Stand or not to Hop Stand?
« on: January 09, 2013, 07:32:12 AM »
You can also reduce the temp to 80 C (~180F) for the hop stand. That will limit isomerization and DMS production.

That's what I do.

Kai

Ooo. I like this. Might even have to break out the old immersion chiller for the occasion.   8)

If you've got a plate chiller, just circulate the hot wort through until the kettle is <180F, then cut the cooling , add hops, and start the whirlpool. Let stand 20-30 min or as long as it takes you to get the fermenter ready, then cool-in as usual.

This process mirrors a professional brewery. I only use the "Hop Stand" because I use an immersion chiller and have to whirlpool after cooling.

I've gone away from the typical knockout addition and use that portion of the charge in the Hop Stand.

780
Pimp My System / Re: Pilot Brewery
« on: January 09, 2013, 07:21:51 AM »
for a solera project I would think you would want some o2 permeability as some of those bugs need o2 to thrive.

I would be worried about build up of acetobacter since its never really emptied/cleaned. Maybe you just pull from it until the acetic character gets too high and then start over?

1Vertical has made some amazing solera beers that are at least a couple years old. In the one I tasted any acetic character was just right. I think that's kind of the point with a solera project. to see how the barrel evolves.

I'm glad this got brought back up - I'm working the kinks out of a process using a plastic bucket as a "Homebrew Horny Tank" - using the bucket to inoculating new batches while letting in a bit of oxygen. The bottom valve on the plastic conical would be helpful so I could transfer out the trub with each batch, rather than having it accumulate in the bucket.

Submitted this project (along with other sour culture techniques) as a seminar topic to NHC. If its not picked to present, I should at least have some samples/cultures to share!

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