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Messages - kylekohlmorgen

Pages: 1 ... 54 55 [56] 57 58 ... 90
826
Going Pro / Re: MonsterMash
« on: October 08, 2012, 01:32:13 PM »
I think mine is 60-qt. I'm pushing it at 25 lbs.

827
Going Pro / Re: MonsterMash
« on: October 08, 2012, 10:47:23 AM »
I once did over 30 pounds of grain!!!!
 8)

Gold Star.

Actually - I don't even think I could fit that much in my Gott Cooler!

828
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Belgian dark strong, low FG
« on: October 05, 2012, 07:33:21 AM »
A BDS that is strong but not heavy is one that keeps you coming back. Garrett Oliver said that was his mission for Local 2 (and that's a big BDS that you can have several glasses of).

It may need to condition a bit after fermentation to mellow out the "hot" alcohol notes, but you're right on track with FG to make a nice BDS.

829
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Cellaring Beer
« on: October 05, 2012, 07:29:23 AM »
*sigh*

Life is too short to "cellar" beer.

830
Classifieds / Re: Wild bugs!
« on: October 01, 2012, 01:10:50 PM »
Ah well, I'll have plenty enough slurry to give away. Just send me a few bottles of the finished product whenever they're ready.

I'll DM you for a shipping address after the first pitch is ready.

831
Ingredients / Re: Pellets or whole for dry hopping?
« on: September 28, 2012, 01:23:48 PM »
Yeah, 2" ports. I forgot about that part. Still, I dry hop in carboys/buckets without a bag. But with a .5" port on a conical that could cause some problems.

+1 - The only time I use a bag is with keg hops.

832
Classifieds / Re: Wild bugs!
« on: September 28, 2012, 10:38:22 AM »
Sounds like a good opportunity for a beer swap! Have you any sour homebrew?

I'd gladly trade some wild slurry for a few wild homebrews!

The current "house" mixed blend is going into a gallon starter today - the last step before pitching. It will have revived dregs from Jolly Pumpkin, Goose Island (Juliet), Boulevard (Love Child #2), Petrus, The Bruery (Oude Tart), and Upland (Gilgamesh). I might also throw in a touch of slurry from WLP670.

833
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Boulevard brewing yeast strains
« on: September 28, 2012, 09:33:22 AM »
The bottle condition Saison Brett with Brett as well as their normal bottle conditioning yeast.

I'm trying to culture yeast/bacteria from Love Child #2, but just from the look/smell of it, I may just be getting T-58. Not sure if they filter primary yeast out first.

EDIT: It says on the website that it changes as it ages, so I assume all yeasty beasties from the barrel are still present.

834
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Brett C and a 1.011 Saison?
« on: September 28, 2012, 08:52:25 AM »
Brett C does give fruity/pineapple flavors, but I think you'll still get a little "funk" with any brett strains you use.

With that in mind - I love the combo of brett and saison! I have one going now that's about to be kegged.

1.011 is plenty left for the brett to work on.

If I'm going for a slight funk and pitching brett after primary fermentation, I'll just keg all of it and pull a sample periodically. When the brett presence is to my liking, I'll put it on a tap. If you're using a wild yeast blend or just dumping dregs in, its a good way to keep O2 levels / acetobacter production low.

Let us know how it turns out!

835
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Transfer to secondary with March pump
« on: September 28, 2012, 07:00:53 AM »
What type of primary fermenter are you using?

Sounds like a conical, since you probably can't prime a march pump from a carboy/bucket.

In that case, CO2 is your best bet, IF your conical is rated for pressure (I know Blichmann conicals are, but not sure about other make/models).

Foaming might not be bad for the beer, but its definitely bad for a centrifugal (March) pump. Its just like sucking air into the pump.

836
Ingredients / Re: Pellets or whole for dry hopping?
« on: September 27, 2012, 01:35:19 PM »
I remember reading something from a major brewery (maybe NB?) about how extraction of volatile compounds peaks within 24 hours when dry-hopping. Not sure how applicable that is with homebrew-sized batches, but it makes me wonder if I've been dry-hopping for too many days.

I'm usually never on a charge of dryhops for more than a week.

I'll dry hop at the end of primary and then in the keg. More hops and less contact time isn't exactly efficient, but it provides a more intense hop presence without grassy, dirty, vegetal off flavors (that I can detect, anyway).

837
Beer Recipes / Re: Critique my Wit
« on: September 27, 2012, 09:17:55 AM »
If you really want a genuine wit, go with raw wheat and a cereal mash. Its not that much more work.

Take into account about a 5% drop in efficiency due to the raw wheat.

IMO, wheat malt/torrified wheat doesn't cut it in this style. I do like torrified wheat for an easy sparge and popcorn-like flavor contribution.

I know there will be conflicting opinions on this - its just my opinion.

Also temp control is important on this one. Witbier (and hef) yeasts can throw off some nasty phenols with uncontrolled spikes in fermentation temps.

838
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: What's Brewing This Weekend - 9/28 Edition
« on: September 27, 2012, 06:35:26 AM »
A Belgian Dark Strong for me - brewing up this while showing my brother around our hobby.

He's a chef - so I think we'll be making some type of carmelized sugar source for the beer. Flambe'd raisins, perhaps? I've got some Craisins and dried cherries also.

839
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Feral Yeast (or Yeast Gone Wild)
« on: September 27, 2012, 06:32:33 AM »
Try before you buy on this one...

Definitely make starters and leave them in areas where you want to try spontaneous fermentation. There are a few accounts recently of homebrewers doing this successfully, but I have tried capturing wild yeast in my area and have been WILDLY unsuccessful.

Still doesn't deter me from making "wild" beer... I just use the "wild" yeast and bacteria from other regions  ;D

840
Beer Recipes / Re: Sour beer
« on: September 27, 2012, 06:27:57 AM »
Bottle dregs can be a mistery - a fun experiment but I wouldn't go that route for my first batch. Use a commercial culture to get more reliable results.

You can do both. Start with the Roselare/lambic culture and add sour dregs to the carboy later.

If you're going for more of a Flanders Red/Brown type of beer, go with Roselare, and transfer out of primary into secondary, then add dregs from other sours.

If you're going for more FUNK (lambic), start with a lambic blend from Wyeast/White labs, keep the beer in primary, and add sour dregs.

In either case, I wouldn't start tasting for at least 6 months (except for a final gravity reading).

Use the resource given above, its great! Also, Mike Tonsmire has some great info on homebrewing sour beers on his blog, TheMadFermentationist.com. He provides a short list of commercial beers worth harvesting here:

http://www.themadfermentationist.com/2010/06/harvesting-sour-beer-bottle-dregs.html

Will this be an extract or all grain batch?

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