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Messages - kylekohlmorgen

Pages: 1 ... 54 55 [56] 57 58 ... 90
826
Beer Recipes / Re: covert FWH to boil hops
« on: October 16, 2012, 06:45:50 AM »
You do whatcha gotta do to get beer in the fermenter. You're committed to the hobby, dude!

Try it by "steeping", and if you don't like it, try it another way. IME, Waldo Lake Amber is a beer worth brewing multiple times (as well as a good base to start your own hoppy amber recipe).

As far as IBUs go - this is where brewing software comes in handy. FWH and a 60 min addition give you different IBU figures, so use software as a guide to nail down these numbers.

827
Beer Recipes / Re: How much Munich 1 in a bock?
« on: October 16, 2012, 06:34:32 AM »
some of my best bock recipes use a blend of Munich I and Munich II for the majority of the grist (if not the entirety). I usually add at least 10-20% pils for the enzymes. I also like a touch of cara munich as well.

What is the difference between Munich I and Munich II? Is it just length of kilning (color)? I've chewed on both and didn't taste an appreciable difference.

Is the blend just for complexity (i.e. layering crystal malts)?

828
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Over pitching/under pitching experiment
« on: October 16, 2012, 06:27:01 AM »
Jason did a nice experiment about that a while back. Take a look:
http://sciencebrewer.com/2012/03/02/pitching-rate-experiment-part-deux-results/

This is a good read - make sure you get to the bottom for Garrett Oliver's advice!

829
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Dry-Hopping Citra DIPA
« on: October 16, 2012, 06:17:40 AM »
I have heard people mention about dry-hopping in the primary fermenter but i was never too sure about how it would turn out. Plus, since Im still using carboys and not a conical, I cant just drop my yeast so I guess it scared me a bit too much to try. But, I guess there is only one way to find out  ;)

+1 for the Brynildson method.

I dryhop near the end of fermentation (when bubbles are about 30 seconds apart in airlock). The warmer temperatures help with extraction, and you can add a good amount of dry hops without worrying about picking up grassy/vegetal flavors (you'll be racking off in a few days, anyway). Then I'll dryhop again in the keg, pull out the hop bag after 4 days, and then refrigerate/carbonate.

A keg for "secondary" is perfect, esp. for hoppy beers. That way you reduce transfers (oxygen pickup) AND you can purge the keg more effectively than carboys. Minimizing oxygen pickup is the key with hoppy beers. AND the beer gets to the glass quicker!

830
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Cleaning kegerator
« on: October 09, 2012, 08:19:41 AM »
Good references listed above.  I would follow the directions on the BLC, plus remove and completely disassemble the faucets and make sure they are clean and in good condition.

+1

Before its first use, its worth it to replace the beer lines.

When you pull apart the faucets, make sure any gaskets/o-rings are in good working order.

831
Going Pro / Re: MonsterMash
« on: October 08, 2012, 01:32:13 PM »
I think mine is 60-qt. I'm pushing it at 25 lbs.

832
Going Pro / Re: MonsterMash
« on: October 08, 2012, 10:47:23 AM »
I once did over 30 pounds of grain!!!!
 8)

Gold Star.

Actually - I don't even think I could fit that much in my Gott Cooler!

833
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Belgian dark strong, low FG
« on: October 05, 2012, 07:33:21 AM »
A BDS that is strong but not heavy is one that keeps you coming back. Garrett Oliver said that was his mission for Local 2 (and that's a big BDS that you can have several glasses of).

It may need to condition a bit after fermentation to mellow out the "hot" alcohol notes, but you're right on track with FG to make a nice BDS.

834
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Cellaring Beer
« on: October 05, 2012, 07:29:23 AM »
*sigh*

Life is too short to "cellar" beer.

835
Classifieds / Re: Wild bugs!
« on: October 01, 2012, 01:10:50 PM »
Ah well, I'll have plenty enough slurry to give away. Just send me a few bottles of the finished product whenever they're ready.

I'll DM you for a shipping address after the first pitch is ready.

836
Ingredients / Re: Pellets or whole for dry hopping?
« on: September 28, 2012, 01:23:48 PM »
Yeah, 2" ports. I forgot about that part. Still, I dry hop in carboys/buckets without a bag. But with a .5" port on a conical that could cause some problems.

+1 - The only time I use a bag is with keg hops.

837
Classifieds / Re: Wild bugs!
« on: September 28, 2012, 10:38:22 AM »
Sounds like a good opportunity for a beer swap! Have you any sour homebrew?

I'd gladly trade some wild slurry for a few wild homebrews!

The current "house" mixed blend is going into a gallon starter today - the last step before pitching. It will have revived dregs from Jolly Pumpkin, Goose Island (Juliet), Boulevard (Love Child #2), Petrus, The Bruery (Oude Tart), and Upland (Gilgamesh). I might also throw in a touch of slurry from WLP670.

838
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Boulevard brewing yeast strains
« on: September 28, 2012, 09:33:22 AM »
The bottle condition Saison Brett with Brett as well as their normal bottle conditioning yeast.

I'm trying to culture yeast/bacteria from Love Child #2, but just from the look/smell of it, I may just be getting T-58. Not sure if they filter primary yeast out first.

EDIT: It says on the website that it changes as it ages, so I assume all yeasty beasties from the barrel are still present.

839
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Brett C and a 1.011 Saison?
« on: September 28, 2012, 08:52:25 AM »
Brett C does give fruity/pineapple flavors, but I think you'll still get a little "funk" with any brett strains you use.

With that in mind - I love the combo of brett and saison! I have one going now that's about to be kegged.

1.011 is plenty left for the brett to work on.

If I'm going for a slight funk and pitching brett after primary fermentation, I'll just keg all of it and pull a sample periodically. When the brett presence is to my liking, I'll put it on a tap. If you're using a wild yeast blend or just dumping dregs in, its a good way to keep O2 levels / acetobacter production low.

Let us know how it turns out!

840
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Transfer to secondary with March pump
« on: September 28, 2012, 07:00:53 AM »
What type of primary fermenter are you using?

Sounds like a conical, since you probably can't prime a march pump from a carboy/bucket.

In that case, CO2 is your best bet, IF your conical is rated for pressure (I know Blichmann conicals are, but not sure about other make/models).

Foaming might not be bad for the beer, but its definitely bad for a centrifugal (March) pump. Its just like sucking air into the pump.

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