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Messages - kylekohlmorgen

Pages: 1 ... 54 55 [56] 57 58 ... 91
826
Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: Zombie Dust Clone (extract)
« on: November 05, 2012, 02:27:03 PM »
You'll need more dryhops if you want to mimic the aroma from Zombie Dust.

I'd do 4 oz of Citra in primary as the fermentation slows down (airlock bubbles every 15 sec or so). Rack off after no more than a week. Add 4 oz more to secondary/keg in a hop bag. Taste after 3-4 days and pull them out if there's any sign of "green", grassy, vegetal flavors.

It sounds like overkill, but that's the 3Floyds way.

827
Equipment and Software / Re: Help!! Pickup Tube/Chilling/Whirlpool Dilemma
« on: November 05, 2012, 02:19:30 PM »
Edited response above

828
Equipment and Software / Re: Help!! Pickup Tube/Chilling/Whirlpool Dilemma
« on: November 05, 2012, 02:08:12 PM »
I'm in the same boat here. I have a naked pickup (a bare 1/2" street 90 elbow) and draw off directly to a pump. I have clogged the outlet valve/pump with both whole hops and pellet hops. I was going to try making a Hop Stopper (or at least fitting the pickup tube with a stainless Chore Boy).

Another option might be to add a hop back to the outlet of your pump and recirc through it while cooling. This will gradually filter out some of the hop/trub material while cooling so there is less to deal with during transfer.

Was this your first time using the Hop Stopper too? What did you do before the new equipment?


829
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Long-term sour starter
« on: November 05, 2012, 12:48:13 PM »
This could be a good read, if you haven't already:
http://www.themadfermentationist.com/2011/03/maintaining-brett-and-lacto-cultures.html

+1 for this as a primer.

I've had 3 different "house cultures" in the 4 years or so I've done sour beers.

The first two I kept in a gallon jug. I would pitch dregs of any sour/funky beer I enjoyed, and would "feed" the starter a bit of fresh wort every 6 weeks or so, or about 3 weeks before I was going to brew a sour/funky beer. This method makes GREAT sour beers that are more unique and complex than using a Wyeast/White Labs blend alone. My favorite sours were made by pitching only this culture in primary.

I'm keeping the current starter in a horny tank (i.e. plastic bucket). I'll transfer the current beer out in 6-8 months, leaving behind a bit of liquid, spent yeast, trub, and oak cubes. I'll top up the tank with fresh, unfermented wort. I hope this allows me to keep a house culture alive and evolving without having to dump the culture and start from scratch.

830
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: RIS Yeast Recommendations
« on: November 05, 2012, 12:23:07 PM »
Can't go wrong with a yeast cake of WLP-001 / Wyeast 1056. Its clean and handles high-gravity fermentations well with proper fermentation management (oxygenation, fermentation temp. control, pitching rate, etc.).

This is what I use - mainly because I am most likely to have a yeast cake of it handy. I use it for most of my normal-gravity beers.

831
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Weirdness with Repitched 1214
« on: October 26, 2012, 12:21:41 PM »
I'll bet the yeast didn't finish because they were low on nutrients.

With the tripel, even though you over-pitched, the small amount of nutrient from the malt was divided amongst a large quantity of yeast. That yeast was probably already low on nutrient from fermenting the blond.

832
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Post a pic of your Pellicle!
« on: October 26, 2012, 11:54:58 AM »

Double batch of Flanders Red 2011:


What's the difference between the two beers? What strains did you use?

The left was only my house culture of bottle dregs (from the pic above). The right was only Roselare.

The house culture was by FAR my favorite, a lot more depth and acidity than the Roselare. I think it was because the house culture was very active when I pitched. Either way, house culture is how I'm doing it from now on. It produces more unique sours AND gives me a reason to buy good commercial examples.

833
Wood/Casks / Re: Charring oak cubes
« on: October 26, 2012, 11:42:15 AM »
Here's a great resource on toasting oak cubes. Times/temps for different desired flavors:

http://forum.northernbrewer.com/viewtopic.php?f=29&t=104116


834
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Post a pic of your Pellicle!
« on: October 26, 2012, 11:34:55 AM »
House Culture:



Double batch of Flanders Red 2011:



Cultured dregs of Goose Island's Juliet:


835
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Weirdness with Repitched 1214
« on: October 26, 2012, 11:21:21 AM »
How are you harvesting the yeast? Just dumping the wort onto it or are you rinsing/storing/refrigerating etc.?

Did you use a blow-off tube for the Blonds?

Did you add yeast nutrient to both the blond and the bigger beer? That was my first thought, especially since both beers had simple sugars, and more so in the 2nd, higher-gravity wort.

FWIW - I just repitched 1214 slurry from a 10% Quad and it fermented properly. This yeast is normally a trooper, that's why I'm interested in getting to the bottom of it.


836
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: short term yeast storage
« on: October 26, 2012, 11:11:53 AM »
If you put it in the fridge, make sure you give it enough time to warm up before you pitch.

That's quite a bit more liquid than a regular smack pack / tube, so just take note and pull it a few hours before you would normally take your pack/tube out of the fridge.

837
Equipment and Software / Re: Interesting immersion wort chiller design
« on: October 24, 2012, 09:19:12 AM »
Definitely overthinking it...

838
Beer Recipes / Re: basic amber ale recipe help
« on: October 24, 2012, 09:16:28 AM »
If you.re just going for a color adjustment and want to minimize any flavor contribution from the roasted grain, I'd use something like dehusked Carafa or Midnight Wheat instead of the chocolate malt.

You could also mash really thin and do a long, hard boil to contribute the color. This tweak simplifies the malt bill, makes it easier to lauter, and will probably accentuate the caramel flavors from the roasting of the pumpkin. You could also draw off a portion of the 1st runnings and boil it down, similar to a Scottish ale process. The resulting depth of flavor is deeper/richer than any combo of crystal malts.

Another unsolicited idea - When I'm going for a beer with caramel-type flavors that finishes with some body, I like to add additional table salt (tsp or so) to my water adjustments. No scientific/water chemistry reason; I'd like to think I'm playing off that salted-caramel, salty-sweet balance of flavors.

839
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: FWH question
« on: October 24, 2012, 09:04:48 AM »
What is claimed is that it adds some flavour and a softer bitterness, although with a higher IBU in comparison with a 60 minute addition.

What he said. Some references say that you can estimate FWH by assuming its a 60 min addition plus a 20 min addition in one dose.

Agreed - to a point. IME FWH utilize small amounts of hops more efficiently because you can extract 15 min addition-type flavor from a bittering hop. But you cant just move all your flavoring additions to FWH.

I use FWH mostly to reduce total hop mass in the kettle without sacrificing bitterness or flavor. I've changed my IPA recipes, taking a portion of my higher alpha hops from the 15-20 min addition and adding to FWH, normally in place of the 60 min addition. I'll use a small amount of super high alpha hops at 60 min if I can't get the desired IBU with 1/2-1/3 of the flavoring hops as FWH.

Do a side-by-side with a Pale/IPA. You can never have enough of it around the house anyway.

840
+1 for DennyBrew.

That's how I started all-grain, and (aside from a few minor upgrades) its what I still use.

The best way to nail down your process and produce consistent, quality beer is to start with simple equipment. After you can get good beer out of it for awhile, make changes/upgrades to suit you.

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