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Messages - kylekohlmorgen

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841
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Boulevard brewing yeast strains
« on: September 28, 2012, 09:33:22 AM »
The bottle condition Saison Brett with Brett as well as their normal bottle conditioning yeast.

I'm trying to culture yeast/bacteria from Love Child #2, but just from the look/smell of it, I may just be getting T-58. Not sure if they filter primary yeast out first.

EDIT: It says on the website that it changes as it ages, so I assume all yeasty beasties from the barrel are still present.

842
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Brett C and a 1.011 Saison?
« on: September 28, 2012, 08:52:25 AM »
Brett C does give fruity/pineapple flavors, but I think you'll still get a little "funk" with any brett strains you use.

With that in mind - I love the combo of brett and saison! I have one going now that's about to be kegged.

1.011 is plenty left for the brett to work on.

If I'm going for a slight funk and pitching brett after primary fermentation, I'll just keg all of it and pull a sample periodically. When the brett presence is to my liking, I'll put it on a tap. If you're using a wild yeast blend or just dumping dregs in, its a good way to keep O2 levels / acetobacter production low.

Let us know how it turns out!

843
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Transfer to secondary with March pump
« on: September 28, 2012, 07:00:53 AM »
What type of primary fermenter are you using?

Sounds like a conical, since you probably can't prime a march pump from a carboy/bucket.

In that case, CO2 is your best bet, IF your conical is rated for pressure (I know Blichmann conicals are, but not sure about other make/models).

Foaming might not be bad for the beer, but its definitely bad for a centrifugal (March) pump. Its just like sucking air into the pump.

844
Ingredients / Re: Pellets or whole for dry hopping?
« on: September 27, 2012, 01:35:19 PM »
I remember reading something from a major brewery (maybe NB?) about how extraction of volatile compounds peaks within 24 hours when dry-hopping. Not sure how applicable that is with homebrew-sized batches, but it makes me wonder if I've been dry-hopping for too many days.

I'm usually never on a charge of dryhops for more than a week.

I'll dry hop at the end of primary and then in the keg. More hops and less contact time isn't exactly efficient, but it provides a more intense hop presence without grassy, dirty, vegetal off flavors (that I can detect, anyway).

845
Beer Recipes / Re: Critique my Wit
« on: September 27, 2012, 09:17:55 AM »
If you really want a genuine wit, go with raw wheat and a cereal mash. Its not that much more work.

Take into account about a 5% drop in efficiency due to the raw wheat.

IMO, wheat malt/torrified wheat doesn't cut it in this style. I do like torrified wheat for an easy sparge and popcorn-like flavor contribution.

I know there will be conflicting opinions on this - its just my opinion.

Also temp control is important on this one. Witbier (and hef) yeasts can throw off some nasty phenols with uncontrolled spikes in fermentation temps.

846
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: What's Brewing This Weekend - 9/28 Edition
« on: September 27, 2012, 06:35:26 AM »
A Belgian Dark Strong for me - brewing up this while showing my brother around our hobby.

He's a chef - so I think we'll be making some type of carmelized sugar source for the beer. Flambe'd raisins, perhaps? I've got some Craisins and dried cherries also.

847
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Feral Yeast (or Yeast Gone Wild)
« on: September 27, 2012, 06:32:33 AM »
Try before you buy on this one...

Definitely make starters and leave them in areas where you want to try spontaneous fermentation. There are a few accounts recently of homebrewers doing this successfully, but I have tried capturing wild yeast in my area and have been WILDLY unsuccessful.

Still doesn't deter me from making "wild" beer... I just use the "wild" yeast and bacteria from other regions  ;D

848
Beer Recipes / Re: Sour beer
« on: September 27, 2012, 06:27:57 AM »
Bottle dregs can be a mistery - a fun experiment but I wouldn't go that route for my first batch. Use a commercial culture to get more reliable results.

You can do both. Start with the Roselare/lambic culture and add sour dregs to the carboy later.

If you're going for more of a Flanders Red/Brown type of beer, go with Roselare, and transfer out of primary into secondary, then add dregs from other sours.

If you're going for more FUNK (lambic), start with a lambic blend from Wyeast/White labs, keep the beer in primary, and add sour dregs.

In either case, I wouldn't start tasting for at least 6 months (except for a final gravity reading).

Use the resource given above, its great! Also, Mike Tonsmire has some great info on homebrewing sour beers on his blog, TheMadFermentationist.com. He provides a short list of commercial beers worth harvesting here:

http://www.themadfermentationist.com/2010/06/harvesting-sour-beer-bottle-dregs.html

Will this be an extract or all grain batch?

849
The Pub / Re: Finding a city
« on: September 26, 2012, 06:36:03 AM »
I've got to make a plug for Indianapolis.

We live in the city, in an area called Broad Ripple (10 minute bike ride downtown). Its a great community of food/beer lovers and has many wonderful restaurants, a few brewpubs, and taphouses. I have about 1/2 acre that's perfect for a great garden. Its legal in our area to have chickens, and several people do (my friend has a chicken coop with a small garden on top, actually). My local (walking distance) market is a Fresh Market (like Whole Foods) and the Farmers Market every Saturday.

The cost of living in Indiana is AWESOME. I have worked in Chicago, St. Louis, Kansas City, and Columbus, and Indianapolis is the most affordable city.

The area my fiance and I are in is a more historical district - our house was built in 1924. The neighborhoods continue to be kept up by the owners. We have a neighborhood association, but their focus is on commercial zoning, business growth, etc. The neighborhood is kept up organically by... the neighborhood. We chose the neighborhood because we wanted to meet other like-minded people and families. We've definitely succeeded! My neighbor is my age and an Engineer (like me). We've also met several couples via the dog park, rec. league sports, beer events, and my LHBS.

Indianapolis International can get you to Paris via Chicago or New York in 7-8 hours.

I am within walking distance of 3 or 4 wonderful Catholic churches. Not sure about protestant.

The job market is great as well. I just switched companies, and found a job within 3 months of starting my search. My fiance is a recruiter and she is busier than ever!

Indianapolis is home to a few great museums. The IMA (imamuseum.org) is a huge indoor/outdoor facility. There is also a workshop in the heart of Broad Ripple, if your wife is a sculpture or welder (or if you need to weld on homebrewing equipment). The Art Institute, IUPUI, Butler, and U of Indy all offer great arts/culture programs. Broad Ripple is a great district for arts and culture. The annual Art Fair is impressive, and arts in schools are heavily supported (Broad Ripple High School is a liberal arts magnet school).

The beer culture is growing exponentially and electric right now in Indianapolis! We've had a lot of breweries start up since Sun King has become so successful, and better beer locations continue to thrive. I think its the city for me to start my brewing venture someday. The area is fertile for well-run food and beer-centric business.

The homebrew culture is great as well. We have an AWESOME homebrew shop (greatfermentations.com) and a great homebrew club (Foam Blowers of Indiana). The state contest draws more than 1,000 entries per year.

AND we host a kickass Super Bowl!

Let me know if Indy falls into your consideration - I'd be happy to help you explore our options and connect with real estate agents, schools, recruiters, churches, homebrewers, etc.

Good luck in your search!

850
All Grain Brewing / Re: IPA Help PLEASE!
« on: September 21, 2012, 05:44:55 AM »

  This beer did have a lot of trub, maybe the next time I will bag all the pellets?

This is what I think is your main issue. Try whirlpooling (you can find the basic procedure on BYO.com or by Google'ing) and use a few different size strainers when pouring into your bucket.

When I load the kettle with hops, I use a spaghetti strainer on top of a finer mesh strainer from the homebrew shop (fits over the bucket) on top of a large fine mesh bag. I usually have to clean and re-sanitize the bag a few times while pouring into the fermenter, but you get a lot less (basically no) hop gunk in the bucket that way. All that trub gives my beer a dirty, "earthy", unpleasant taste.

851
All Grain Brewing / Re: IPA Help PLEASE!
« on: September 20, 2012, 12:22:32 PM »
not really - its a matter of personal preference. I do a 3 week primary as a standard practice for all my ales, including IPAs.  I doubt that is the problem here.  The trub issue you mention could be.  One of the benefits of a conical - trub dump pre-pitch and again at high krausen  ;D

Sorry - to clarify: 3 weeks is a long time if you've got a lot of trub in the primary. Also, I feel its eating into prime drinking time! I know a lot of homebrewers leave the beer in primary for 3 weeks or more, so I think that's ok if yeast is all its sitting on (or esp. if you have a conical!).

I think his estimated ABV was 6.5%, but he got 4.7%. With ABV that low, and with healthy fermentation, you can get it out of the fermenter and into a keg in ~ 1 week. I rack out ASAP because I want my IPA!

852
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: 100% Brettanomyces (or similar) fermentation
« on: September 20, 2012, 06:33:34 AM »
Do you need to make a starter with a 100% brett beer?

Yep - most sources recommend lager pitching rates.

I've read (mostly on other posts in this forum) that Brett produces the most "funk" under stressful conditions. So if the purpose of all Brett beer is to really experience Brett's full character, wouldn't it be better to under pitch, at least slightly, to encourage ester production?

If you want funk, just pitch brett in a mixed fermentation.

When used in primary fermentation, brett needs to be treated as you would sacch. or it won't attenuate. Adequate pitching, aeration, temp. control.

Per C. Yakobson's paper, increasing acidity of the wort will yield more flavor compounds from the brett, but it may not be the funky flavors you're expecting - more along the lines of esters and phenols produced with belgian strains.

853
All Grain Brewing / Re: IPA Help PLEASE!
« on: September 20, 2012, 06:26:46 AM »
That's a LOT of kettle hops for a 4.7% IPA - backing off a few late additions (3-4 oz) could reduce the vegetal ("earthy", "dirt") flavors in the beer. Simcoe/Chinook have some "savory" tones, so start by taking them down by an ounce or two.

Are you getting a lot of hop debris in the fermenter? By a lot, I mean do you have more than 0.5 gal of green "crud" when you transfer out of primary? Trub with lots of spent hops that is carried over into primary will surely get you dirty, vegetal, earthy off-flavors, especially since you were in primary for 3 weeks. Speaking of:

3 weeks is WAY too long to be in primary, especially for an IPA. Get it off the yeast as soon as fermentation is complete and all fermentation by-product flavors have been cleaned up (no "buttery" taste). The "dirty" flavor could be simply from the yeast!

With dry hopping - I will add a good dose of dry hops (3-4 oz) in primary at the end of fermentation, and rack off in 3-4 days. This minimizes any off flavors (as mentioned above - "strained over asparagus").

If you dry hop in the keg, pull them out as soon as you start getting any sign of "grassy" flavors. My keg hops are usually never in the keg more than a week.


854
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: 100% Brettanomyces (or similar) fermentation
« on: September 19, 2012, 12:47:19 PM »
Do you need to make a starter with a 100% brett beer?

Yep - most sources recommend lager pitching rates.

855
Beer Recipes / Re: IPA late hops additions combos advice
« on: September 19, 2012, 12:43:23 PM »
For a true "floral" component (smells like flowers), I like upping the cascades at the end of the boil. You can also add Hallertau, but its has more "herbal" qualities than "floral".

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