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Messages - kylekohlmorgen

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841
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Wyeast 3864 - Canadian/Belgian Ale
« on: October 19, 2012, 01:29:57 PM »
I'm another fan of this yeast!

Just asked Wyeast via their website if it will return. I'll post when I hear something.

842
Ingredients / Re: Ideas for Sorachi Ace
« on: October 17, 2012, 11:03:48 AM »
I think they would do well in a Hefeweizen.

I tried this - didn't like the lemon/dill and banana/clove combination. I thought the flavors conflicted.

843
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Belgian Golden Strong
« on: October 17, 2012, 10:52:53 AM »
WY PC Canadian/Belgian strain. It's restrained with gentle apricot and lemon character. Very very nice yeast for a light colored belgian.

I've had some GREAT beers made with that strain. It's the yeast from Unibroue, per Mr. Malty. Great all-around Belgian strain.

844
Classifieds / Re: Wild bugs!
« on: October 16, 2012, 06:54:51 AM »
Always good to have an extra set of plastic ware (thief, racking stuff, buckets, bungs, airlocks, etc) for sours/brett'd beers.

I use duct tape or red permanent marker to mark the "sour" equipment.

BTW - lambic is fermenting away in primary. I didn't have time for slurry, but I probably could send you a bottle of unfinished (but fairly attenuated) beer that you could pitch straight into a batch or grow a starter from.

845
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Bourbon Porter
« on: October 16, 2012, 06:49:14 AM »
I brewed a standard porter about a month ago and added ½ a bottle of Jim Beam, 8 oz of cocoa nibs and 2 vanilla beans a week ago to the secondary and now it is re-fermenting.  I have bubbles in the S airlock every 2 -3 minutes.  Not sure if this is normal and if it is how long it will take to stop.

That's a LOT of Beam!

What's it tasting like?

846
Beer Recipes / Re: covert FWH to boil hops
« on: October 16, 2012, 06:45:50 AM »
You do whatcha gotta do to get beer in the fermenter. You're committed to the hobby, dude!

Try it by "steeping", and if you don't like it, try it another way. IME, Waldo Lake Amber is a beer worth brewing multiple times (as well as a good base to start your own hoppy amber recipe).

As far as IBUs go - this is where brewing software comes in handy. FWH and a 60 min addition give you different IBU figures, so use software as a guide to nail down these numbers.

847
Beer Recipes / Re: How much Munich 1 in a bock?
« on: October 16, 2012, 06:34:32 AM »
some of my best bock recipes use a blend of Munich I and Munich II for the majority of the grist (if not the entirety). I usually add at least 10-20% pils for the enzymes. I also like a touch of cara munich as well.

What is the difference between Munich I and Munich II? Is it just length of kilning (color)? I've chewed on both and didn't taste an appreciable difference.

Is the blend just for complexity (i.e. layering crystal malts)?

848
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Over pitching/under pitching experiment
« on: October 16, 2012, 06:27:01 AM »
Jason did a nice experiment about that a while back. Take a look:
http://sciencebrewer.com/2012/03/02/pitching-rate-experiment-part-deux-results/

This is a good read - make sure you get to the bottom for Garrett Oliver's advice!

849
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Dry-Hopping Citra DIPA
« on: October 16, 2012, 06:17:40 AM »
I have heard people mention about dry-hopping in the primary fermenter but i was never too sure about how it would turn out. Plus, since Im still using carboys and not a conical, I cant just drop my yeast so I guess it scared me a bit too much to try. But, I guess there is only one way to find out  ;)

+1 for the Brynildson method.

I dryhop near the end of fermentation (when bubbles are about 30 seconds apart in airlock). The warmer temperatures help with extraction, and you can add a good amount of dry hops without worrying about picking up grassy/vegetal flavors (you'll be racking off in a few days, anyway). Then I'll dryhop again in the keg, pull out the hop bag after 4 days, and then refrigerate/carbonate.

A keg for "secondary" is perfect, esp. for hoppy beers. That way you reduce transfers (oxygen pickup) AND you can purge the keg more effectively than carboys. Minimizing oxygen pickup is the key with hoppy beers. AND the beer gets to the glass quicker!

850
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Cleaning kegerator
« on: October 09, 2012, 08:19:41 AM »
Good references listed above.  I would follow the directions on the BLC, plus remove and completely disassemble the faucets and make sure they are clean and in good condition.

+1

Before its first use, its worth it to replace the beer lines.

When you pull apart the faucets, make sure any gaskets/o-rings are in good working order.

851
Going Pro / Re: MonsterMash
« on: October 08, 2012, 01:32:13 PM »
I think mine is 60-qt. I'm pushing it at 25 lbs.

852
Going Pro / Re: MonsterMash
« on: October 08, 2012, 10:47:23 AM »
I once did over 30 pounds of grain!!!!
 8)

Gold Star.

Actually - I don't even think I could fit that much in my Gott Cooler!

853
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Belgian dark strong, low FG
« on: October 05, 2012, 07:33:21 AM »
A BDS that is strong but not heavy is one that keeps you coming back. Garrett Oliver said that was his mission for Local 2 (and that's a big BDS that you can have several glasses of).

It may need to condition a bit after fermentation to mellow out the "hot" alcohol notes, but you're right on track with FG to make a nice BDS.

854
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Cellaring Beer
« on: October 05, 2012, 07:29:23 AM »
*sigh*

Life is too short to "cellar" beer.

855
Classifieds / Re: Wild bugs!
« on: October 01, 2012, 01:10:50 PM »
Ah well, I'll have plenty enough slurry to give away. Just send me a few bottles of the finished product whenever they're ready.

I'll DM you for a shipping address after the first pitch is ready.

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