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Messages - kylekohlmorgen

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841
All Grain Brewing / Re: IPA Help PLEASE!
« on: September 21, 2012, 05:44:55 AM »

  This beer did have a lot of trub, maybe the next time I will bag all the pellets?

This is what I think is your main issue. Try whirlpooling (you can find the basic procedure on BYO.com or by Google'ing) and use a few different size strainers when pouring into your bucket.

When I load the kettle with hops, I use a spaghetti strainer on top of a finer mesh strainer from the homebrew shop (fits over the bucket) on top of a large fine mesh bag. I usually have to clean and re-sanitize the bag a few times while pouring into the fermenter, but you get a lot less (basically no) hop gunk in the bucket that way. All that trub gives my beer a dirty, "earthy", unpleasant taste.

842
All Grain Brewing / Re: IPA Help PLEASE!
« on: September 20, 2012, 12:22:32 PM »
not really - its a matter of personal preference. I do a 3 week primary as a standard practice for all my ales, including IPAs.  I doubt that is the problem here.  The trub issue you mention could be.  One of the benefits of a conical - trub dump pre-pitch and again at high krausen  ;D

Sorry - to clarify: 3 weeks is a long time if you've got a lot of trub in the primary. Also, I feel its eating into prime drinking time! I know a lot of homebrewers leave the beer in primary for 3 weeks or more, so I think that's ok if yeast is all its sitting on (or esp. if you have a conical!).

I think his estimated ABV was 6.5%, but he got 4.7%. With ABV that low, and with healthy fermentation, you can get it out of the fermenter and into a keg in ~ 1 week. I rack out ASAP because I want my IPA!

843
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: 100% Brettanomyces (or similar) fermentation
« on: September 20, 2012, 06:33:34 AM »
Do you need to make a starter with a 100% brett beer?

Yep - most sources recommend lager pitching rates.

I've read (mostly on other posts in this forum) that Brett produces the most "funk" under stressful conditions. So if the purpose of all Brett beer is to really experience Brett's full character, wouldn't it be better to under pitch, at least slightly, to encourage ester production?

If you want funk, just pitch brett in a mixed fermentation.

When used in primary fermentation, brett needs to be treated as you would sacch. or it won't attenuate. Adequate pitching, aeration, temp. control.

Per C. Yakobson's paper, increasing acidity of the wort will yield more flavor compounds from the brett, but it may not be the funky flavors you're expecting - more along the lines of esters and phenols produced with belgian strains.

844
All Grain Brewing / Re: IPA Help PLEASE!
« on: September 20, 2012, 06:26:46 AM »
That's a LOT of kettle hops for a 4.7% IPA - backing off a few late additions (3-4 oz) could reduce the vegetal ("earthy", "dirt") flavors in the beer. Simcoe/Chinook have some "savory" tones, so start by taking them down by an ounce or two.

Are you getting a lot of hop debris in the fermenter? By a lot, I mean do you have more than 0.5 gal of green "crud" when you transfer out of primary? Trub with lots of spent hops that is carried over into primary will surely get you dirty, vegetal, earthy off-flavors, especially since you were in primary for 3 weeks. Speaking of:

3 weeks is WAY too long to be in primary, especially for an IPA. Get it off the yeast as soon as fermentation is complete and all fermentation by-product flavors have been cleaned up (no "buttery" taste). The "dirty" flavor could be simply from the yeast!

With dry hopping - I will add a good dose of dry hops (3-4 oz) in primary at the end of fermentation, and rack off in 3-4 days. This minimizes any off flavors (as mentioned above - "strained over asparagus").

If you dry hop in the keg, pull them out as soon as you start getting any sign of "grassy" flavors. My keg hops are usually never in the keg more than a week.


845
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: 100% Brettanomyces (or similar) fermentation
« on: September 19, 2012, 12:47:19 PM »
Do you need to make a starter with a 100% brett beer?

Yep - most sources recommend lager pitching rates.

846
Beer Recipes / Re: IPA late hops additions combos advice
« on: September 19, 2012, 12:43:23 PM »
For a true "floral" component (smells like flowers), I like upping the cascades at the end of the boil. You can also add Hallertau, but its has more "herbal" qualities than "floral".

847
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Flanders Red fermentation
« on: September 19, 2012, 12:20:33 PM »
+1 to having sour beer around for blending. I read that, even in Cantillon, they have barrels that are so acidic they're "only good for shining the copper".

Not quite as romantic, but it will get the sour stock up a bit quicker!

Nateo - are you worried about over-carb'ing / bottle bombs with such a young, non-soured portion? Do you just drink them quickly enough to avoid this issue?

I'm still in the "low and slow" camp when it comes to wild/mixed fermentation, but I may have to try this to get some acid beer that I can blend into saisons or the second runnings of a wheat beer to make berliner weisse.

848
All Grain Brewing / your experiences in moving to 10g?
« on: September 18, 2012, 10:55:30 AM »
Heating and cooling take longer, but are part of the process.

I would not be doing 10 gallons without a pump - no heavy lifting with a pump.

+1 on both of these. You need to incorporate a valve on the kettle and the mash tun for a pump.

Adding a recirc for hot wort and an ice water loop was the only way I can cool 10 gal below 70F.

849
Equipment and Software / Re: Best Big Burner
« on: September 17, 2012, 06:40:15 AM »
I've got a Blichmann burner, and wouldn't hesitate to recommend one. It's built like a brick sh!thouse, gets the wort to a boil fast and seems efficient.

+1 and QUIET!!! Plus, you can't beat the customer service.  Generally, John replys himself!

Yep. That Blichmann stuff is AWESOME and always worth the investment. John is a great guy - AND a Boilermaker!
John said he went to Iowa State.

Haha - guess I thought that since he was located in West Lafayette! Oops!

Recommendation still holds true!

850
Ingredients / Re: Pumpkin
« on: September 17, 2012, 06:14:49 AM »
I had the same questions, DW. I took a few pumpkin recipes and played with them in ProMash figuring out the pre-boil gravity with and without the pumpkin.

Another question: how do you know when pumpkins are ripe? Is it just color or do you need to knock on it like a watermelon? Are there any other markers?

The newest addition of BYO talks about playing with nuts/seeds in beer. I might just have to add the roasted pumpkin seeds as well!

851
Ingredients / Re: Making a Custom Hop Blend
« on: September 17, 2012, 06:11:55 AM »
Too many different hops can yield a hop character with muddled, soft edges. Its like they cancel each other out.

Kind of the same as a really busy malt bill.

I use, at most, 4 different types of hops in any IPA/pale ale. Increased complexity comes with playing with the addition of these fewer varieties at different stages, especially in multiple whirlpool and dry-hop additions.

852
Ingredients / Re: NZ hop varieties?
« on: September 17, 2012, 06:06:59 AM »
I just can't get over that "Savory" character that Nelson puts off... I can't put my finger on it, and I don't want to just call it "catty". It's just odd. Same thing I don't care for in some S. Blanc, esp. NZ varieties.

I really like Galaxy. Flat12 Bierworks (a brewery here in Indianapolis) does a single-hop Galaxy pale year-round, and its one of their most popular brews (they call it "Walkabout").

853
Equipment and Software / Re: Best Big Burner
« on: September 17, 2012, 06:01:54 AM »
I've got a Blichmann burner, and wouldn't hesitate to recommend one. It's built like a brick sh!thouse, gets the wort to a boil fast and seems efficient.

+1 and QUIET!!! Plus, you can't beat the customer service.  Generally, John replys himself!

Yep. That Blichmann stuff is AWESOME and always worth the investment. John is a great guy - AND a Boilermaker!

854
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: First sour - bottle or not?
« on: September 17, 2012, 05:57:18 AM »
OK, I'm convinced.  I'm gonna bottle in champagne bottles and move that way.  The beer was down around 1.004 when I threw in the bacteria/brett so it's gotta be pretty low anyway (original yeast was WY3711).
I think I'll call this one finished for now and then re-start when I get into the new house with a bunch of new batches.
Thanks for the advice.

At 1.004 you should be fine, even with your desired amount of priming sugar.

With any wild beer, it takes quite awhile to get over-carbonated and esp. to the point of bottle bombs. As long as you open one every month or so, you should have a good feel if you're in any danger of an explosion.

Plus, its a great way to see how the beer evolves over time in the bottle.

855
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Flanders Red fermentation
« on: September 17, 2012, 05:52:44 AM »

1) I've been blown away at the results by doing a fast-lacto souring upfront, combined with wine yeast (for underattenuation) and Brett, and fractional blending to taste. I know I'm a heretic and I know everyone else disagrees with me, but the Flanders Red I made that way was better than any other Flanders Red, commercial or homebrew, I've ever had, and it only took about 4 months...

No disagreement here - My way is the lazy way. And once you have a few vintages laying around, you can use the quick way and blend in some older, super sour (and in my case, oaky :)) stuff for complexity and depth.

Do you bottle-condition your Flanders? I just have mine sitting around in kegs, but I wondered if such a young wild brew would bottle condition much quicker / more successfully than stuff that's sat around awhile (1-2 yrs).

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