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Messages - kylekohlmorgen

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General Homebrew Discussion / Looking Forward to Fall
« on: July 26, 2012, 06:41:54 PM »
The AC went out at the house, so I found myself looking forward to cooler weather.

Harvest, Football, and big, badass beers!

I have an Imperial Stout conditioning and will start an Octoberfest (w/ roasted corn, ancho, and smoked malt) in 2 weeks.

Anybody else have big beers aging for the cold months?

Beer Recipes / Re: Pliny water
« on: July 26, 2012, 06:36:55 PM »
I'm pretty sure Greg Noonan wrote that he used 700 ppm sulfates for his IPA. I'll check the book when I get home.

I think 400 ppm isn't too much. I REALLY enjoy the minerally, tight bitterness in my IPA at this level. I thought about experimenting with even higher levels.

Beer Recipes / Re: Recipe help please
« on: July 26, 2012, 06:33:31 PM »
I guess the takeaway from this is if some people don't taste it the way others do, then better to not use it if you're looking to compete with it or sell it.

The beauty of being a homebrewer. You don't have to do either and just keep it all to yourself.

BTW I get the savory/onion flavor with Nelson Sauvin hops. Thing is, in small quantities its nice! I just ease up on them during dryhopping.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Sour Worting
« on: July 26, 2012, 06:13:15 PM »
The newest Basic Brewing Radio is an interview with a guy who does a sour-mash BW.

He mentions that his sour mash smells terrible but does not taste terrible. He mentions in 48 hours the bad smell dies down (a bit) and does not at all carry through to the finished beer.

A few other BBR shows have covered sour worts with similar results, one of which being a commercial brewery (Upright) who sours a bit of their mash in a cooler overnight. He says the brewery smells very "ripe" in the morning, but it also doesnt carry that flavor through.

Commercial Beer Reviews / Re: Founders Reds Rye PA
« on: July 25, 2012, 07:09:16 PM »
LOVE this beer. Enough bitterness to satisfy my hophead nature, refreshing through the summer, and the citrus hops and spicy rye work VERY nicely.

Tempts me to add a few handfulls of rye in my IPA.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Flanders Red fermentation
« on: July 25, 2012, 07:05:27 PM »
As I recall, the book "Wild Brews" suggests not racking the beer at all for either lambic or Flanders reds to give the Brett something to eat over the course of the 1 - 2 year fermentation. My latest attempt scored pretty well in a recent competition and I just pitched a pack of Wyeast Roselare blend right at the beginning and let it go. After 15 months I racked it, not to get rid of the yeast, but because I wanted to clear out that carboy for a different beer and I wanted to add some heavy toast oak chips for the last 7 months.

Leaving it on the trub is normally a lambic procedure, where Brett is a much more dominant component. Lambic is conditioned much longer, and the trub/yeast cake aids the Brett in continuing to produce esters and reduce diacetyl produced by Pedio. Since Flanders beers are primarily soured with Lacto, the conditioning period can be shorter and does not rely on a Pedio/Brett combo.

That being said - if you like a Funky and more acidic Flanders, GO FOR IT.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Flanders Red fermentation
« on: July 25, 2012, 02:13:26 PM »
You can refill that primary with a simple wort to make another wild beer. Maybe pitch dregs from a few bottles.

Those chips will harbor the bugs for future batches - AND you'll have more wild beer! (eventually)

Beer Recipes / Re: ESB recipe
« on: July 25, 2012, 02:04:42 PM »

If you still have your training wheels on, focus on making solid beer before you worry about making solid to-style beer.  It's a skill you'll always need.

Writing that one down...

I think I'll always have training wheels on in one way or another.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Fermentation Temps
« on: July 24, 2012, 07:13:05 PM »
There's definitely a difference in controlling at higher than normal temps and letting the fermentation temp freely rise (and consequently fall) without temp. control.

You can use the heat from fermentation to slowly raise the temp over the course of a few days. I usually do a degree or two per day as the fermentation hits high krausen.

Letting the temp swing up and then down by several degrees (5F or more) can shock the yeast, causing them to give off phenols/higher alcohols and then stop fermentation early.

Beer Recipes / Re: ESB recipe
« on: July 24, 2012, 03:17:33 PM »
The biggest problem I had when I started all-grain brewing was deciphering what each base and specialty malt brought to each beer. This was mostly because I never started with one base, tasted it, and adjusted with one specialty malt at a time.

Now I try to do this every time I start brewing a new style. ESB is PERFECT for this exercise. A 100% Maris Otter ESB is a great beer, especially with a solid amount of EKG flavor/aroma. Brew this first, taste it, bottle a few (for side-by-side comparisons), and decide what malt flavors you want more of. Then layer on one flavor at a time in future brews. They may not be your EXACT target, but they will be pretty good and you can never have enough ESB.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Kegerator/Lager Fermentation Chamber?
« on: July 24, 2012, 03:10:09 PM »
+1 - test with the controller first. You'll need one, anyway. Great investment.

Remember you don't just need to control the air temp, you need to control the wort temp as it heats up during log phase. Some yeasts can put off a lot of heat, so try a kolsch at 62F and see if you can keep it under control first.

You may just be getting that low because your fridge is turning itself off. If its accessible, pull the thermister out of the inside of the fridge so you're controlling the cycles, not the fridge.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Flanders Red fermentation
« on: July 24, 2012, 03:03:50 PM »
1. Rack it to secondary before tucking it away. Lambic is really the only fermentation profile that benefits from autolyzed and trub.

When you add oak chips it depends on your preference for oak flavors in the style. I really like the vanilla character in mine, so I add cubes when I rack to secondary. I use 0.25 oz or so since it will still sit on them a long time, but so I dont have to pull a lot of samples to taste for oak when I know the beer isn't nearly ready. A little goes a long way for a Flanders, and it isn't necessarily traditional to have a lot of oak character, so judges can ding you for it.

I always err on the side of keeping as much O2 out as I can through conditioning. Acetic WILL develop over time, so don't worry about an oak stopper. Use a rubber stopper w/ filled airlock since you will get some gas evolution over time.

If the beer is ready and it doesnt have enough acetic for your liking, you can doctor it with actual vinegar (or older flanders as you brew more).

If its for a competition, judges are many times over-sensitive to acetic. I doubt a judge will comment "boy, this could SURE use some more vinegar!"

Limit samples. I don't even touch it for 6 months.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Sour Worting
« on: July 24, 2012, 02:47:59 PM »
The technique is to keep the wort in the kettle holding the temp somewhere between 100 F and 120 F and innoculating with a Lacto culture from Wyeast.   Once he reaches his desired sourness he boils the wort and ferments it. 

How long was he (and are you) tying up your kettle to get the desired sourness?

For a commercial brewery, that sounds like a really big drain on production time. Especially since they are already buying lactic cultures (not just relying on culturing lacto from the grain).

Ingredients / Re: Big 'old hops
« on: July 24, 2012, 02:41:53 PM »
Unfortunately, my newly-planted rhizomes didn't take off at all this year. The cascade came up about 3" out of the ground, and the centennials didn't pop out.

I was going to take a pic, but just imagine a bare dirt pile...

Maybe they're just getting HUGE root balls underground for next year?

Ingredients / Re: Rauch Malt vs Heavy Toast Oak
« on: July 24, 2012, 02:39:12 PM »
dee / majorvices - Can you go right into the mash after smoking malt, or do you have to let the smoked malt "rest"?

Probably a dumb question, but I know Randy Mosher suggests waiting before using home-toasted oats. I also know these are completely different processes, but I wanted to make sure I didn't get any rough flavors fresh off the smoker.

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