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Messages - kylekohlmorgen

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976
All Things Food / Re: Growing food - The Garden Thread
« on: June 27, 2012, 08:44:26 AM »
I have one of these that I got from my parents years ago.  It works very well.  They are a bit pricey though.

Betcha I could make one of these. I'll ponder (and possibly Google) this afternoon...

977
I like dried peppers (anchos, chipotles) because you get a lot of flavor (plus a little smokiness) without a lot of heat.

Those are 2 the greatest peppers ever! Especially ancho, which are dried poblanos. It tastes like a spicy raisin.

A TON of flavor depth to the dried chilies. I'm planning to brew an amber lager (Somewhere between Vienna and Oktoberfest) with ancho in the keg late this summer. Should be great with fall bbq's.

I've also added ancho/chipotle to a kolsch keg with FANTASTIC results.

978
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Plate Chiller or Whirlpool
« on: June 27, 2012, 07:36:25 AM »
I am going to stick w/ my current IC and make a second IC that I will have sitting in an ice bath to cool down the water going to the wort chiller.

I tried this first and found the second IC chiller really decreased the flowrate and didnt really cool the water all that much. Plus its still wasting a lot of water.

Buying the Pond Pump at lowes along with the hose and hose fittings was cheaper than buying another IC. I traded my two 3/8" ID ICs in for one homemade 1/2" IC. That also helped a lot.


979
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Attenuation and Infection
« on: June 27, 2012, 07:32:32 AM »
I disagree on infection causing the low FG.

Even the *accidental* strains of brett take quite awhile to achieve super-attenuation (fermentation of normally unfermentable sugars). How long does it take to get to your FG?

155F isn't THAT high of a mash temp. If you aren't using any crystal malts, I wouldn't be surprised to see a FG in the 1.008-1.009 range. This is especially true if your mash temp falls a few degrees during the mash, it takes awhile for you to lauter, or if your mash thermometer is off.

I would check out the thermometer first. Then, think about mashing a bit higher. To get in the 1.015 range for my English Pale, I mash at 158-162 (depending on target starting gravity, amount of crystal, etc.).

980
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Aerate Starter?
« on: June 27, 2012, 07:25:16 AM »
I like the aeration idea, but a stir plate is a good addition, especially if you're heating with a heat pad or reviving old yeast (to keep it in suspension).

I pinged my microbio friend about this recently - stir plates (or shaker tables, normally) work in a lab because they are in a sanitary environment (usually lots of samples under a fume hood). A growler in your basement is a different story.

Speaking of - does anyone use temp control on a starter? With intermittent shaking and the small amount of volume, I never gave it much thought (unless I'm culturing lacto).

981
Ingredients / Re: Rosemary Dry hopping
« on: June 27, 2012, 06:48:01 AM »
No worries about contamination.

I would taste it often, though. Rosemary can get very strong very quickly!

I love the idea, though - I've had a few commercial beers with Rosemary and I'd like to try some in my IPA recipe.

What is the beer its going into?

982
Equipment and Software / Re: Give Up on ProMash??
« on: June 26, 2012, 07:49:00 AM »
I don't want to sound like my dad (his hatred of power windows on cars is legendary), but more features and gadgets often means you have less control.  ProMash does the calculations I need without doing stuff that I don't need (and often don't trust).  I hate seeing things like FG calculations that people trust blindly just because the software said so.  It's a tool, no more, no less.

I've downloaded/trialed other brewing programs (and even made my own spreadsheets) to test the accuracy of some of the calculations. I'm like you - I don't trust the machine unless I can see the moving parts.

I'm probably going to stick with ProMash until (like any other tool in my brewery) I feel its hampering my progress/success as a brewer.

I'll put the $30 towards something else for the brewery...

983
Equipment and Software / Re: Aeration? How important is the method?
« on: June 26, 2012, 07:42:03 AM »
I just bought an oxygenation system (~$50 total) this weekend because I was brewing a big imperial stout (1.115 OG).

I followed the instructions and was blown away by the reduced lag phase. The fermentation was VERY active in 6-8 hours. I'm only 2 days into the fermentation, but I'm sold on O2. Its a pretty cheap way to encourage yeast health and reduce fermentation times.

984
All Grain Brewing / Re: melanoidin in an amber?
« on: June 26, 2012, 07:37:25 AM »
I just put .25 lbs in an amber recently, and I think it tastes quite nice. It was a 3 gallon batch. I'm pretty sure Denny uses it in his Waldo Lake Amber as well.

Waldo Lake Amber is still the best amber I've ever brewed. I now use the malt bill and adjust the hops to my tastes.

I like a more complex malt profile than an American Pale or an English Bitter, but you should err on the side of fewer, higher quality malts than more types of malts. Since malt profile is secondary to hops (although a closer second than pale), "complex" can turn to "muddy" fairly easily.

985
All Things Food / Re: Growing food - The Garden Thread
« on: June 26, 2012, 07:28:58 AM »
Question about "compost":

I don't really have much space for compost, but I have a corner of the house that we have not yet landscaped. It was just dirt (no plants, weeds, etc), so I started piling up and burying my spent grain, trub, dryhops, grass clippings and burying it (it gets a bit funky otherwise).

Will this produce dirt worth using or am I more harm than good?

986
Beer Recipes / Re: Imperial Pilsner - advice/suggestions?
« on: June 26, 2012, 07:22:42 AM »
I have only had 1 imerial pilsner, My Antonia from DFH. It was lovely. for sure maltier, sweeter, and richer than a 'normal' pilsner. Don't know if they use any sugar or just go for a really low mash temp to maximize fermentability. It's not cloying but its not what I would call light and refreshing either. very hoppy as well.

I almost mentioned this as an example, but didn't since he mentioned the more traditional BoPils style.

Its one of my favorites from DFH (which is saying a lot). It showcases noble hops better than any other beer I'm familiar with.

987
Beer Travel / Re: Best beer bar or brewpub in Nashville?
« on: June 26, 2012, 07:10:37 AM »
There's a bbq place called "Puckett's Grocery" off Broadway. We found it on our last trip.

The BBQ is good, the sides/specials as well - and its really affordable for that area. Best of all, they have a well-curated tap list of local and southern brews you don't see if you live north of the Mason-Dixon.

I was also impressed by the beer knowledge of the staff. When I asked about one of the taps, the bartender happily poured me a few free tasters and was excited to talk beer.

988
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Lost O2 Sintered Stone in Bucket
« on: June 26, 2012, 07:02:06 AM »
Since it's a bucket I would fish it out with a sanitized spoon, but you can safely leave it at this point.

I may try this after the yeast backs off a bit - I was very pleased with the shortened lag phase from adding O2, but this is the most vigorous fermentation that I've ever had! I had to change out the gallon-sized blowoff jug after about 12 hours.

Also +1 on the sticky note. I'll def have to do this or my stone will end up in the compost pile!

989
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: That German lager flavor
« on: June 25, 2012, 12:40:50 PM »
hopfen,

you mention lots of yeast. This seems to be important across the board with lager. I have also heard that if you get enough healthy yeast a D-rest is not really needed. Is this your experience? I ask because when I do a lager I will be getting lots of yeast from the local brewery. If I pitch a quart of 1 day - 1 week old yeast slurry do I need to do a D-rest?

One reason to do the D-rest is if you can taste diacetyl. A good test is to warm a sample up to room temp and taste. The other reason is to speed the fermentation up for a shorter time length, and the increased activity will blow off more SO2.

Yes pitching a lot of healthy yeast at a temp cooler than your fermentation will reduce Diacetyl production.

I try to give a "diacetyl rest" (a ramp in temp of 2-3F after I've reached about 80% of the expected FG) to every beer, ale or lager, that's I'm not fermenting at the top end of the temp range.

It can also help clear up acetylaldehyde.

In dry-hopped beers, I'll start this rest and add the dry hops at the same time.

990
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Plate Chiller or Whirlpool
« on: June 25, 2012, 12:27:35 PM »
For a 5 - 10 gallon batch I think the IC chiller works best. Much easier to sanitize (just drop in boil last 10-20 minutes), and you can start cooling immediately at flame out.

+1

My LHBS owner actually talked me out of a plate chiller because she said it was more hassle than improvement for batches < 10 gal.

I do 5-10 gal batches with a homemade IC on an ice water loop (submersible pond pump in an mash tun of ice water). This will get me to pitch temps in ~ 40 min. I'll run tap water through until I get to ~ 110F and then switch over to chilled water. I use the warm outlet tap water to wash down my equipment.

I can cut this time in half if I recirc the wort with my March pump, but its not necessary.

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