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Messages - fmader

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Beer Recipes / Re: Russian Imperial Stout Help
« on: February 18, 2016, 07:22:25 AM »
Yeah. Leave it on the yeast. Remember that you shouldn't be determining that the beer will be done in three weeks. The beer will tell you when it will be done.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: 02 level in wort
« on: February 18, 2016, 07:19:22 AM »
I went form an O2 system to a MixStir to nothing special now.  Once I started pumping the wort to the fermenter, I found I was getting so much foam that I didn't need to do anything else.  And the results prove it.

Yeah something like this. I run my wort off through a filter into a bucket. Then I dump from that bucket into a fermenting bucket or carboy. I get plenty of oxygenation in most beers. Some bigger styles might get an extra stir.

Homebrew Competitions / Re: bottles for NHC
« on: February 14, 2016, 01:17:37 PM »
I believe the short bottles are out because they don't package well with the standard bottles. These sites could have 800 bottles coming, so they are going to be stored in cases. The short bottles don't fit well. As far as raised letters like Sam Adams bottles go. I think they're listed as "discouraged." It's been said that nobody bats an eye at them though. I personally don't take the chance.

All Grain Brewing / Re: water to grain ratio
« on: February 14, 2016, 12:18:05 PM »
really..........1.75 qts?

Me too... Sometimes with bigger beers I end up with 1.5 qt/lb, but I'm usually in the 1.65-1.75 range.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Pics of recent brews?
« on: February 14, 2016, 11:47:42 AM »
Ok. I did a little homework on this beer. Tired Hands does not have much on their website, but what I can gather elsewhere is that this beer and HopHands APA are brewed with a large amount of oats in the grist. I found nothing on flour. I feel better about oats than I did with flour. Though still not pretty, I'd give it a shot. I still don't think I'd brew anything like this though, but you never know.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Pics of recent brews?
« on: February 14, 2016, 10:58:59 AM »
Why are they doing this?

My thought, too. I can't come up with a reason it makes sense, unless they just want to look really different than some of the clearer West coast beers like Pliny ? Looks Wit-like or even turbid to me. Think I'll pass on doing that to mine.

This has to be some obsurd hipster movement. Count me out of this too. It may taste fine, but it looks like it was brewed in a washing machine.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: 2016 Spring Swap
« on: February 14, 2016, 10:13:07 AM »
Lost my Dad to leukemia today. If the chaos settles down in time, I'll try to organize the swap. Otherwise, if someone wants to step up and run it that would be great

So sorry for your loss, Jim.

Beer Recipes / Re: The perfect Imperial Stout
« on: February 13, 2016, 11:30:48 AM »
I am committed to going AG to this beer.  I have been really pushing past the limits of the term "partial" mashing for 100% of my beers.  I have only been using DME for starters and a fail safe to conversions.  I have no problem getting the 70+% efficiency out of 10lbs of grain and still using it as a "partial" mashing.  While getting the needed conversions out of the base malts.  HoosierBrew, I was thinking of RO and salts, but with the hard water we have here in Indiana anyway I did not know if I could 50/50 it or if you would go 100% RO.  I figured a filtered version of what we get out of tap might be alright with such a dark beer.

also do you use black patent at all in your recipes?

Don't take what I said the wrong way. I'm impressed that you're making this jump. I just wanted to throw it out there. Are you batch sparging in a cooler? You won't get 70%+ efficiency with this thick of a grain bed. I wouldn't assume anything higher than 60% when creating your recipe. You can easily assume 75-80% efficiency when you brew a beer in the 1.060-1.070 range.

Beer Recipes / Re: The perfect Imperial Stout
« on: February 13, 2016, 11:12:23 AM »
I'm going to suggest, since this is your first all grain batch, to brew something simpler first so you can understand your system a bit better. You're going to have a good bit of money and time invested in this beer. With a beer this big, you'll want to mash at 148 for about 90 minutes. If you mash it at 156 like you're suggesting, your FG will be high and it will be like drinking roasted motor oil. 5.6 is a good mash pH. You can also assume that you're efficiency is going to be low. I can get 75% efficiency with a 1.080 beer, but it drops to about 60% at a 1.100 beer and you're looking to go higher than that. Don't sub midnight wheat in here. I'd go 60% two row, 20-25% Munich and use the other 15-20 % between crystals and roast malts. If lad suggest getting your IBUs up around 60 since this will be aged. Any yeast you suggested is good as long as you have a monster starter. 001, 007, 013, 028, or 1450 will be fine.. Or a combo of any of them. Start fermentation in the low 60s and let it ride after initial fermentation. If you're going to age on vanilla, I wouldn't oak it. I'd go with one or the other just so the taste is more easily controlled. Also have it so you can taste it and remove the vanilla when you get it where you want it.

Also, make sure your mash tun can hold the grain and water you'll need to mash. I'm assuming that you're looking at a 1.120 OG. You're going to need nearly 30 lb of grain for a 5.5 gallon batch. I just brewed a 1.100 RIS a few weeks ago. It was an 11 gallon batch. 52 lbs of grain and 16 gallons of water filled a 100 qt. cooler. I actually had to put a ratchet strap around it so the walls could support the weight.

Good luck, man. Normally, I say brew whatever you want for your first batch, because this is America! But this is a busy, complex, intimidating beer. But if you can pull it off, everything else will seem like a breeze.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Pics of recent brews?
« on: February 13, 2016, 07:48:09 AM »
They're actually more durable than you'd think. They're supposedly shatter proof crystal. They are very thin and very light. I've actually knocked one out of the cabinet and onto the counter (a couple feet) and it just bounced. It was like slow motion lol. My uncle puts his in the dishwasher with no issues, but I don't put mine in. They are tricky to get the bottomed cleaned, so I wash right away. I scrub the top by hand and with soapy water in it, cover the opening and give it a good shake. I love these glasses. I think that they're stronger than a regular glass pint. But I'm also more careful with them. I don't bring my fancy glasses out during a party.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Pics of recent brews?
« on: February 12, 2016, 06:45:37 PM »
Yes. These glasses are spectacular. I got a pair a couple years ago for Christmas. They're not fancily etched with SN on them though :P

Very nice looking beer, Jon!

Thanks, man. Don't know if they still have them now, but I bought two from the SN site a few years back. Like 'em.

The big question is... Are you digging these hops?!?

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Pics of recent brews?
« on: February 12, 2016, 05:33:14 PM »
Nice looking beer. Great cream-sickle head! Looking forward to hop review.

Edit: and your glass reminded me to order my set of 6 on Amazon.....on the way.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Yeah, it's nice. Great glasses, too. Really concentrates hop aromas.

Yes. These glasses are spectacular. I got a pair a couple years ago for Christmas. They're not fancily etched with SN on them though :P

Very nice looking beer, Jon!

Beer Recipes / Re: american wheat
« on: February 12, 2016, 02:12:35 PM »
Also not a dry yeast but I have always had good luck with WY1010 American Wheat.

It finishes with enough body, a little cloudy and I've always enjoyed the flavor profile.


I am very intrigued by this yeast especially.

Yeah. I'm not sure what I was thinking when there was no equivalent. I've used this strain too. But for some reason, I'm traditionally a White Labs fan. It's what I can regularly get, so I feel comfortable with it.

I remember. I was at a tiny brewery in Port Clinton, Ohio - Catawba Island Brewery and I spent a lot of time speaking with the assistant Brewer. They had just tapped a habanero/mango hefe. I was intrigued because I was planning on brewing a Hab/mango pale ale. He said he would've more excited about that, because he didn't like his Hab/mango hefe because they used the WYeast 3068. He thought that the banana esters clashed with the flavors of the beer. They certainly did. I agreed with him. I asked if he would consider WLP320. He explained that they contracted through WYeast and didn't think they had an equivalent to WLP320.

Wow. Long story for that. Owell. Regardless, I think either 320 or 1010 will get you where you want to go as opposed to a neutral yeast like S05.

Beer Recipes / Re: american wheat
« on: February 12, 2016, 12:59:17 PM »
I know you said you would probably use dry yeast, but look into White Labs WLP 320 American Hefe. It's a dialed back standard Hefe yeast strain. You won't get the banana bomb as you would with WLP300, but you'll get hints of those traditional Hefe notes. This alone might get you the dynamics that you want. From my understanding, WYeast does not have an equivalent. I'd keep the malt bill simple with 50/50 Pilsner and wheat. Maybe a splash of caramunich. Bitter with magnum and finish with a combo of cascade/Willamette/Mt. Hood.

Homebrew Competitions / Re: Still waiting on NHC Entry email.
« on: February 11, 2016, 05:35:19 PM »
Everyone who applied during the week of February 1-7, will have communication from the AHA by February 17th.  Thanks for your patience. Cheers, John

February 17th? But what about this post saying that you have to pay by February 12th? Tomorrow!

This is from the email I got

"Entrant notifications are being sent in staggered groups, but if a large number of entrants are attempting to access the software at the same time you may experience slow speeds. If this is the case, you may come back later to finish your entry payment, so long as it is completed by the deadline of 11:59 PM Eastern Standard time on Friday, February 12."

You have to pay within 3 days of getting your confirmation. In that case, and in my case, I got notification on the 9th. I had to pay by the 12th. If you get your notification tomorrow, you'll have to pay by the 15th. This is all in efforts to not big the system down. They've learned from past mistakes and the new process is working so much better. I've not encountered any web glitches or didn't have to refresh 18964 times just to try and get entered. You'll get your email.

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