Seems like Rahr is much preferred than Briess here. I think I bought one kit back in the day that had Rahr two row. I think that was the only time I've used it. Nobody carries Rahr around here.
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Looks to me like it is a better bottle just with a different name:) probably works just as well too!
Actually I'll end up with 5.5 gallons of puts boil wort. I know my schedule is confusing and doesn't make sense to most, but those are the general numbers I use to hit my volume and gravity.
In that case you're looking at a HUGE beer (~1.13 assuming full conversion), but you're going to need to boil off 3.8 gal. I'd reduce both the grain and the water, personally. You're going to take a mash efficiency hit, but you'll save just as much in gas or propane.
Your own send sound and I don't think you will see a huge hit in efficiency. 5% drop is probably accurate.
However you med a bit more water, your 1.5 gallon loss to grain and hops should be closer to 3 which may have been a typo as you said you would use 12.5 gallons total
26lb of grain will hold on to about 3 gallons then 2 gallons boil off. So 5.5 into fermenter means ~11 gallons into the mash
I would totally use some sugar in this. I used ~2 lbs of maple syrup in my last bw and it is still plenty chewy
I see your points now - should've read a little slower. Be sure to post what you actually end up with (OG and efficiency). But if you're making a BoPils that ends up @ 6% instead of 4.8%abv, that's a pretty big overshoot. But this style practically has no ceiling. I target 1.100 for Barleywines - sometimes I'm a little over, sometimes a little under. They're always good. Just use plenty of yeast and oxygenate like crazy !
No chemistry, just physics. The more grain you have, the more water it absorbs. If the batch volumes stay constant, that absorption loss will represent a larger fraction of the total water used. That's really all there is to it, though, and the math is fairly straightforward.
If I'm interpreting this correctly, you're looking for a 5.5 + 1.5 = 7 gal post-boil volume, and that would hit 1.100 OG (71% mash efficiency) as long as conversion is complete. With the low mash temperature you may want to plan on, say, 95% conversion efficiency, and add another pound or two of malt.
Typically for my really huge beers I will calculate about a 5% drop in efficiency and it works out pretty well. I attribute it to the really large grain bill and ability to stir, mix and Lauter as I batch sparge.
Do you mill your own grain? If not, you may have gotten a better crush on your stout resulting in a better efficiency then calculated. The same may or may not hold true when doing your barley wine.
Just my initial thought...
What happens here is that you're mashing MUCH more grain to end up with the same volume, so the ratio of water to grain goes down proportionally . I like to mash a normal beer at ~ 1.8 to close to 2 qts/lb. Efficiency tends to go up as your water : grain ratio goes up , and vice versa. I can get pretty good efficiency from a 1.078 beer like yours, but I think when you go much over 1.080 is when you start to see the efficiency drop a bit. 1.100 is obviously quite a bit over that. It'll come out great - I like your recipe. Just get a lb of DME to keep on hand and take a refractometer reading after the wort comes up to a boil, so you can adjust if need be. A beer that big is a different animal !
Looks great and congrats on your up coming marriage.
aye - congrats. is that your Kona Longboard (?) attempt?
looks solid frank! I just did a black rye double ipa that is currently chilling and carbonating. hope it looks that good!
I just picked up a sack of Avangard Munich.... Anybody dip into it yet?Made a German pilsner that is lagering now. Will say when it is carbonated.