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Messages - dordway29

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31
Beer Recipes / Re: German Pils - hop and malt questions
« on: June 03, 2013, 10:48:57 AM »
I think the recipe looks fine. Not sure what the AA% on your magnum are but that should get you where you want. The vienna isn't a bad idea, I had a friend use pilsner with a touch of ashburne mild. Turned out great. The mexican lager is also great and is not used often enough. Stick with the hallertau.

32
Beer Recipes / Re: kolsch grain bill
« on: May 29, 2013, 08:55:10 AM »
It sure would. Mine was 94% pils and 6% wheat. The important part is using the best quality pilsner available to you. And a big starter with good fermentation at around 60F. One of my favorite beers to make.
I've also taken first with this recipe and recently had the chance to brew it "professionally" at a local brewery.

Weyermann Pilsner 94%
Weyermann Pale Wheat 6%

.5oz magnum 60
.75oz hallertau 20

german ale

mash at 149F and I fermented mine at 56F
OG: 1.045
TG: 1.008

33
You should try using the original packaging for leftover hops. Weigh out what you need, roll it up and rubberband or tape it. Then freezer. Most hop suppliers use oxygen barrier bags purged with either nitrogen or co2. Normally those will stay at the bottom of the bag if you only open to take what you need and put it back.

34
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: LHBS
« on: May 28, 2013, 07:49:16 AM »
I think it depends greatly on your local shop. I currently work at one and am fortunate it's a good one. We have to do monster grain and supply orders every few weeks. Yeast is every week from both white labs and wyeast. Hops are only harvested once a year. So as long as the packaging is good you're fine. Heat, oxygen and light are what destroy your hops so eliminate those and you're fine. Ours are vacuum sealed in oxygen barrier bags and put in a freezer for storage. We currently carry 89 hops (pellet & leaf) and 110+ different grains/adjuncts. We could get more but we're running out of space.

You have to be careful with the online guys. There were a few months when wyeast wasn't offering any roeselare. But northern brewer and midwest both had it in stock. Which means they were at least 4 months old before they could order any more. The stuff you buy online isn't always fresh.

35
Beer Recipes / Re: What type of Scottish ale would this be?
« on: May 18, 2013, 04:32:25 PM »
Assuming 70% efficiency, 80 schilling.

36
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: British Yeast Recommendation
« on: May 08, 2013, 07:08:41 PM »
Wyeast 1968 london esb is fun.

37
Ingredients / Re: Brewing With Grits
« on: March 15, 2013, 06:57:49 AM »
It might be easier to just use flaked maize. But if you really want to include the grits, I'd recommend a cereal mash. This is from BYO and explains as well as I could without thinking too hard:

"In a cereal mash you begin by heating a mash of your adjunct and small amount of your 6-row malt to 158–160 °F (70–71 °C) and holding there for about 5 minutes. Then you heat the mixture to a boil, boil for 30 minutes, and return the cereal mash to the main mash. The bulk of your barley malt can be mashed in at 122 °F (50 °C), then heated to 140 °F
(60 °C). When the boiled cereal mash is added to the main mash, the temperature moves into the saccharification range. Cereal mashing requires a nearly constant stirring of the mash. Using flaked maize is much simpler."

38
Ingredients / Re: Mosaic Hops?
« on: February 28, 2013, 12:22:09 AM »
There's a saison IPA here with all mosaic that's fantastic. My co-worker describes it as having a green tea taste. Definitely some simcoe flavors and could probably be substituted with simcoe. Either way I have a smash beer with pale malt and mosaic. Tastes fantastic. We have both whole leaf and pellets around so they're definitely out there. The distributors are limiting how much everyone can order.

39
Ingredients / Re: Rye Bread IPA
« on: February 26, 2013, 03:44:30 PM »
Rice hulls?

40
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: wlp001 for Scottish 60/ or 70/
« on: February 26, 2013, 03:40:14 PM »
wlp001 will produce a fine beer. but I'm sure it'll be too clean for a true scottish ale. so really, it's up to you. To get the correct ethyl hexanoate (red apple) flavors, you should use either the Edinburgh or Scottish Ale yeasts. Most english strains will also produce this flavor within the human threshold but they are usually much milder. Sometimes you can get away with Irish ale in place of scottish

41
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Finishing gravity results
« on: February 26, 2013, 03:28:15 PM »
Alcohol will cause the refractometer to read higher than it should. Even with the calculators I prefer the hydrometer for TG readings. That way you can taste the results as well.

42
All Grain Brewing / Re: My First Batch Sparge
« on: February 26, 2013, 02:11:38 PM »
Hotter sparge water will "loosen" your mash as well more effectively dissolve the sugars into your wort. I'm sure your mash efficiency was about the same but what I call "sparge potential" can change with the temperature of your sparge, as well as the length of your sparge. Be careful with hotter sparges though, you can also pull some unwanted flavors into your kettle. If you lower the ph of your sparge water using either phosphoric acid or even lactic acid you can avoid this.

To increase efficiency on higher gravity beers you can batch sparge longer and then boil longer. Works well for barleywines and such.

43
All Grain Brewing / Re: wit beer
« on: December 25, 2012, 12:50:12 PM »
With modern malts the protein rest is mainly for clarity. So for a wit, it really is not necessary. Mash out will improve your lautering efficiency but is also not necessary, just remember to include the rice hulls. You should be fine with just a single infusion and batch sparging. I'm usually in the 148-150 range for a witbier.

44
I might consider adding more yeast at the time of bottling.

45
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Conflicting Info for Bottle Conditioning
« on: December 23, 2012, 03:25:39 PM »
Extended storage won't necessarily create off-flavors. Depending on how much fermentables are still in your beer, you could explode your bottles. That would be the only reason to refrigerate.

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