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Topics - imperialstout

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16
All Grain Brewing / First Wort Hopping question
« on: February 03, 2013, 03:55:46 PM »
Maybe it is just me but I find the directions to doing FWH a little confusing. Got this brew tip the other day that reads in part:

FWH involves adding a portion of the hops to the boiler at the very beginning of the sparging process, allowing these hops to steep as the sparging completes and remaining in the kettle throughout the boil. Add the hops to the boiler as soon as you have finished recirculating the first runnings.

My guess is 30% of your flavour and aroma hops is added to the wort in the brew pot you just collected from draining the mash tun the first time, letting them steep while the grain in the mash tun is then sparged, about a half hour.

Anyone use FWH? How did it work for you?

17
Yeast and Fermentation / Don't make yeast starters from dry yeast? WTF?
« on: January 23, 2013, 07:22:13 AM »
Just read in "Brewing Classic Styles" by Jamil Zainasheff and John J. Palmer page 285, bottom of page, NOT to make a yeast starter from dry yeast. Claim it is much cheaper to buy more yeast and hydrate. Surely not everyone who makes a yeast starter uses White Labs or Wyeast.

As for cost, Wyeast would have cost me $20 from Northern Brewer, $6 for yeast and $14 shipping.

Can anyone think of a reason NOT to make a starter from dry yeast? The goal is to increase cell count. How does liquid yeast work well for starters but it is better just to pitch re-hydrated dry yeast?

Will send the authors an email and see what John Palmer has to say in his book, "How to Brew."

18
All Grain Brewing / Big beer efficiency and fermentation question
« on: January 22, 2013, 10:29:10 AM »
Having problems hitting efficiency and SG targets consistently with big beers. AG brew 5 gal batches with 8 gal pot, 10 gal MT and batch sparge. Know efficiency will drop with big beers. Wondering if as a general rule increasing the mash from 60 to 90 min and increasing the sparge from 30 to 45 min will increase efficiency without adding off flavors. Know SG can be increased with DME but would like to try longer mash / sparge times first.

Typically ferment in primary for 14 days and in secondary for 7 days, both at 68 F. Just started making a yeast starter. Thinking of increasing primary to 21 days, especially for big beers but wondering if the longer primary time is needed with a yeast starter.

19
Yeast and Fermentation / Stir-Plate 3000 yeast stirrer review
« on: January 21, 2013, 06:28:22 AM »
Thanks for the advice on previous stir plate post. Now trying to decide between the $50 Stir Starter and the $100 Stir-Plate 3000. Building my own is out of the question as am currently rewiring and insulating the garage. After all, brewing in a warm place is so much nicer.

Would be interested in hearing from people who have used either stir plate to make 2.5 L starters. Keep in mind I brew big beers that recommend 3 L starters. That seems a little overkill to me so going with the 2.5 L.  I am just a little concerned that the Stir Starter will not handle 2.5 L starters on a monthly basis.

The review of the Stir-Plate below is very positive. Price ranges from $109 to $149, depending where you buy it.

http://nickrace.net/2011/06/stir-plate-com-stir-plate-3000-review/

Any thoughts?

20
Yeast and Fermentation / Need advice on stirrer plate
« on: January 20, 2013, 03:41:21 PM »
Just starting to make yeast starters. Noticed the cell count is much higher if a stir plate is used. Stir plates run from $70 to over $200. What do you use? Want one that runs quietly.

Currently use a 3 L wine jug with a cap drilled and grommeted for an airlock. What would be the benefit of getting a 3 L flask, assuming the stir bar will remain centered in the concave bottom of the wine jug? Any thoughts on what size stir bar to get?

21
All Grain Brewing / Adjusting gravity with DME
« on: January 18, 2013, 03:19:23 PM »
Just learned SG and OG can be increased by adding DME. Anyone know about how much DME to add per gravity point? Are we talking spoonfuls or cupfuls of DME for a 5 gal batch?

Trial and error works, just thought someone already knows.

22
Equipment and Software / BrewSmith fly sparge question
« on: January 17, 2013, 03:25:55 PM »
I see this section is equipment and software but mostly see equipment questions here.

My question is how to select fly sparge in BrewSmith Mash/ sparge section.

Have been double batch sparging but efficiency is rarely above 60%. Bought a grain mill and crush at .039. Want to do fly sparging to increase the efficiency.

Looked for fly sparge in mash type list but didn't find it. What else would it be called?

Currently use Ale, Double Infusion for mash. Under mash detail tab the sparge is listed as batch sparge with 1 step.

What else would fly sparge be called? If I accidently deleted fly sparging how do I get it back?

23
Ingredients / Victory Storm King Hops and Yeast
« on: January 06, 2013, 06:59:39 PM »
Anyone figure out what hops and yeast Victory Storm King might use. Victory mixes Storm King and Hop Devil at the bar in Downingtown, Pa to create the Dark Devil. Victory brew master says it works because both brews are hoppy beers and use the same yeast.

All I can find is Storm King has a Northwest flavor and they use American whole hops. Thinking they use Cascade. Same questions apply to Old Rasputin.

In general, what hops and yeast are commonly used in Russian Imperial Stouts. Currently using Columbus at 60 min followed by Perle, Goldings and Fuggles with Nottingham Danstar 3613 for yeast. The beer is great, not just my opinion, but trying to get it taste more like Storm King of Old Rasputin. Any thoughts?

24
All Grain Brewing / Pale barley brand and price
« on: January 03, 2013, 02:49:59 PM »
Have just increased the ability to brew once a month and am thinking of buying pale grain in bulk. Can get 50 pounds of Muntons pale for $50, Weyermanns for $71 and Maris Otter for $77.

I realize everyone has their opinions, which is just what I am asking for.

What do you like / don't like about the above grains?

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