Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Topics - dzlater

Pages: 1 2 3 [4] 5 6
Kegging and Bottling / Can I add geletin to a carbed keg?
« on: March 26, 2012, 10:29:30 AM »
That's the question:
Can I add gelatin to a carbed keg?
Has anyone done this?

I have an apartment size fridge 58" tall.
If I built one of these
and mounted it on top of the fridge, running the beer line from a corny keg in the refrigerator, through the freezer. Would it work? Is that too far to pump the beer?
In the linked article it says to lay the keg on it's side and serve through the gas post, I thought that was only if you wanted to serve using gravity? Or do need the gravity pressure to get the pump to work?

Ingredients / trying to get a handle on water chemistry.
« on: February 09, 2012, 11:51:53 PM »
I called my local MUA to try and get a run down on my water, they were very helpful.
He gave me this link:

The water spreadsheets that I have been looking at ask for Mg and Ca.
I asked MUA guy about the Mg and Ca, and he said "that's hardness 80 to 90"
I thought hardness was from calcium carbonate? Do the 80 to 90 ppm's of seem correct?
Any other tips or pointers appreciated.

Ingredients / Continental Pale Malt?
« on: January 29, 2012, 03:54:14 PM »
Continental Pale Malt, what is it exactly?
Would I be better off using MarisOtter or good ole american 2 row?

General Homebrew Discussion / Three dry hop additions.
« on: January 12, 2012, 11:26:34 AM »
I brewed this
I am getting ready to do the second dry hop addition which the recipe says to do in a secondary fermenter.
I was thinking of either adding them to the primary, or racking to a keg, dry hopping in the keg , let it sit for a week, removing them and then adding the third keg addition.
Would it matter if I don't rack to secondary and either add the second addition to the primary , or just do the second and third additions in the keg?

Kegging and Bottling / Quick, quick carbing question?
« on: October 29, 2011, 10:11:38 PM »
I wanted to carb up a keg quickly , so I followed the directions in the latest Zymurgy article on speed brewing. I set the regulator to the correct psi for the temp and carb level. Then rolled it back and forth till I didn't  hear anymore gas going into the keg. This worked well.
My question is after I get it carbed, do I :
Disconnect the gas vent the keg and then set to serving pressure?
Or leave the gas hooked up and release the pressure till the regulator drops to serving pressure?
Or something else.

Kegging and Bottling / carbonating temp question?
« on: September 20, 2011, 11:14:21 PM »
If I have a a carboy that is @ ferment temp of 68°f
and I am kegging it and then putting it in the fridge @ 45°f and hooking up the gas
when using a carbonation table do I use the 68° or the 45°?

All Grain Brewing / Batch sparge water won't fit?
« on: September 16, 2011, 03:01:22 PM »
I usually divide my total water amount in half, and use half for the sparge and half for the mash. As long as the quarts per lb stay between 1 and 2.
The beer I am planning I would need 4 gallons mash 4 gallons sparge.
With the grain bill I can only fit about 3 gallons of sparge water, and can't up my mash water by a gallon because that won't fit.
Instead of doing 2 sparges @ 2 gallons each, can I add the 3 gallons that will fit and then slowly add the remaining gallon as the mash tun drains? If I do this should I slow down on how quickly I run off the sparge water.
 I am planning on brewing Fred's late hopped amarillo pale ale

General Homebrew Discussion / Pumpkin Beer
« on: September 10, 2011, 12:06:24 PM »
My club is doing an informal pumpkin beer comp.
Personally I have no desire to brew one. If you like them that's cool, to each his/her own.
 It's one of those things where I think , why would you want to screw up a perfectly good beer by adding a large orange squash. ???
Just wanted to see what others think.

Beer Recipes / Is this to much crystal malt?
« on: September 03, 2011, 01:32:17 PM »
I am planning on brewing I guess what would be called an Ordinary Bitter.
I looked at few recipes and came up with this.

5.5 gallon batch size
OG 1.037
30 ibu's +/-

6lbs marris otter
1 lb C40
5 oz "sugar in the raw"

1 oz 4.5% ekg @ 60, 15 ibus
.7 oz 4.5% ekg @ 30, 10 ibus
1.4 oz 4.5% ekg @ 10, 5 ibus
.5 oz 4.5% ekg dry hop in keg

The shop I am going to only sells grain in 1 lb and 5 lb bags, so that's why I went with the lb of C40 but I'm thinking it might be too much? It comes out to 13% C40. I was thinking maybe cut it down to 0.5 lb , and adding a 0.5 lb of munich or vienna, Good idea?  Anything else look out of whack?

Yeast and Fermentation / Fermanting in fridge w/o temp controller??
« on: August 22, 2011, 10:28:55 PM »
I plan on brewing a beer with WL Cry Havoc yeast.
I usually brew ales, and put the carboy in a cooler with water and do the ice bottle swap routine.
But seeing that I can do a lager with the Cry Havoc yeast. I thought I might give it a try.
I set my keg fridge to the warmest setting and It started out @ 53°f and after 28 hours it's @ 56°f.
If it doesn't get any warmer and stays fairly stable, is there any reason I can't put my carboy in the fridge and ferment a lager?
I realize it won't be super controlled but it would still most likely be more stable then my ice bottle swap method.

All Grain Brewing / Another sour mash question water/grain ratio?
« on: May 27, 2011, 01:41:23 PM »
I decided (at least for the moment ) to just mash all the grains in my 5 gallon cooler for 24 hours for the sour mash.
My grain bill is 7.75 lbs and I need a total of 7 gallons water for the mash and the sparge.
Usually I just split my total water volume half for the mash and half for the sparge.
If I do that in this case I use 3.5 gallons of mash water which is 1.8 quarts per lb. which will leave me with about 1.75 gallons of head space in the mash tun. Everything I have read says to fill to the top when sour mashing to minimize exposure to air.
If I used 4.25 gallons of mash water @ 2.2 quarts per lb it would pretty much leave no headspace in the mash tun but then I would only need 2.75 gallons for the sparge which might hurt my efficiency.
So I guess what I am trying to figure out is which is better a thin mash with less sparge water or risk the exposure to oxygen with a thicker mash and equal volumes of mash and sparge water?
Or am I once again way over complicating things.

All Grain Brewing / Sour mash idea
« on: May 22, 2011, 01:49:08 PM »
 I am planning on sour mashing 2.5 lbs of grain.
I understand that you want to minimize contact with oxygen during the process.
My idea is to put the mash in a ZipLoc bag and get all the air out and seal it up.
Put the bag in a larger pot of 120º f water with a thermometer in the pot, stick the whole thing in the
oven and try my best to keep it between100º and 120º for 24 hours. Or maybe a cooler instead of the pot / oven ?
Anyone see any major flaws in this plan of action?

I have a Porter that's been @ 1.020 for a several weeks. It started @ 1.056.
I plan on finishing it off with some Brett a (small starter from a bottle of Orval) and some American medium toast oak cubes that I Bourbonized for a week.
I was thinking of putting it a keg and adding the oak and brett, and letting the brett carbonate it naturally.
But was also considering just racking it to a glass carboy and letting it finish out in that and then keg and force carb.
Any thoughts , advice ?

Pages: 1 2 3 [4] 5 6