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Messages - dzlater

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My second time using the White Labs pouch.
I cut the top off, and when I went to dump it into the
fermenter the inner pouch slid out, and sunk to the bottom.
At the time I didn't realize that there was an inner pouch.
I took a peak today when I got home from work and it's floating on top.
What's curious is it looks like it's starting to ferment. Maybe I cut it open.
Now I'm off to sanitize a spoon and some scissors.
Maybe I'll email White Labs and let them know.
Has this happened to anyone else?

Yeast and Fermentation / Two fermenters one temp. probe?
« on: June 24, 2017, 09:56:51 PM »
I'm planning on doing two batches tomorrow.
Any ideas on what to do with the temp. controller probe?
Usually I just tape it to the fermenter with a dishtowel covering it.

All Grain Brewing / Re: No sparge brewing
« on: June 24, 2017, 12:49:39 PM »
     Do you add all the water to the mash tun at once?   Or do you dough in with a lesser amount to keep the ratio reasonable and then add the remainder before recirculating and draining to the kettle?
The recipe I'm looking at if added the total water volume it would be 3.8 quarts per lb. I assumed that would be too high? 8 gallons in 8.3 lbs of grain.

Lower gravity beers are tricky with no-sparge. The concept is as you described though: full volume at mash in.

Some sort of session beer I take it? My SWAG says between 1.028-1.032...

Yes it's a session beer
I'll probably just do my usual batch sparge.

All Grain Brewing / Re: No sparge brewing
« on: June 24, 2017, 12:09:33 AM »
     Do you add all the water to the mash tun at once?   Or do you dough in with a lesser amount to keep the ratio reasonable and then add the remainder before recirculating and draining to the kettle?
The recipe I'm looking at if added the total water volume it would be 3.8 quarts per lb. I assumed that would be too high? 8 gallons in 8.3 lbs of grain.

The Pub / Re: What is the Purpose of this Forum?
« on: June 11, 2017, 12:24:59 PM »
  I thought the purpose of the forum was pretty simple, a way to let home brewers communicate whether asking questions or sharing new brewing techniques. It seems to do that well in my opinion. New ideas are debated and that's a good thing.
  I don't contribute much except to ask questions. And I post my questions here because I trust the answers I get. Much of the highly technical stuff I have a general understanding of but I haven't fully delved into or applied.
However I know if I ever want to get into low oxy brewing, decoctions, or other "advanced" topics I have a place to do research and ask questions. I check the forum regularly and once in a while I learn something useful,(ie shaken starters").
   You can take what you want and leave the rest.


I've use S-23 many times for California Commons.I ferment around 60 F, and I love it. For lagers I prefer S-189.

I have it set at 55, I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

Thanks for tips, I pitched both packs didn't rehydrate.
I'll try and remember to post the results .

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

       Today I brewed an OctoberFest, with an OG of 1.059. I chilled to about 70 and transfered to the fermenter and put in the fridge with a controller set at 55. I have 2 packs of S-23 Saflager.
       I was going to wait till it got to 55 and then pitch hopefully later this evening.
I usually just sprinkle dry ale yeast but I'm wondering if I should rehydrate the yeast since it's a lager.
I also am not sure if I need to aerate the wort, since from what I've read it's not needed with dry yeast.
The only aeration was splashing while draining to the fermenter.  I don't have any way to aerate other then shaking.
      I've read different opinions of the S-23 yeast and didn't really want to use but it was the only dry lager yeast at the shop. If anyone has any first hand tips for this yeast I'd appreciate it. ( And I already know that Denny hates it)


General Homebrew Discussion / Re: It begins...
« on: March 19, 2017, 01:02:00 PM »
   I was curious , so I went to the Goose Island web site to see what I could find out about the Milk Porter, it isn't listed amoung the other beers.
  But they do give some recipe info about the beers so if one really wanted to one could probably get pretty close with some trial and error.

The Pub / Re: Brewers Association Top 50 Breweries 2016
« on: March 19, 2017, 12:43:48 PM »
I remember when Yuengling lager launched in 1987.  By the time I turned 21, about 3 years later, you could walk into any bar and ask for a "Lager" and you got a Yuengling. Now that's pretty much all they are known for, but I remember them having a pretty decent porter back in the day.

It's still around, though harder to find. Usually I'll just have the liquor store special order it for me. (shops around here stock Yuengling, Light, and Black and Tan.) The Lord Chesterfield Ale is really good too, though even harder to find. (and not really an ale...)

    I buy the the Yuengling porter quite often, $6 a six pack is a real good price. I've never seen it in a bar. I only bought the Chesterfield Ale once and it was badly skunked so I never bought it again, if I could be sure it was fresh I would love to give it another try. The Black and Tan is OK but I do prefer the porter.
   They also brewed a seasonal bock that I enjoyed. Just did a search to for it and it appears they are no longer brewing it.
    Around here "lager" sold at nearly every bar.  They also brew something called "Premium Beer" that is a good, by my taste I think it has less of corn taste them the lager.

Ingredients / Re: HSI
« on: March 10, 2017, 07:20:39 PM »
What's HSI?
Hop storage ????

All Grain Brewing / Re: Reinheitsgabot and 'Real Ale'
« on: February 11, 2017, 01:24:26 PM »
Back to the OP and original topic...

I myself have puristic tendencies.  I believe many homebrewers, myself included, have had a tendency to meddle too much, without very well determining whether our additional efforts are really adding anything positive to the bottom line, which, of course, is beer flavor and quality.

Also take into consideration that many brewers make fantastic beer the easy way and don't fart around.  They just come up with a reasonable recipe, brew it, and enjoy it.

So I am with you.  I'm interested in getting back to basics, and not sweating details too much.  Crush well, mash well, mash in the right pH range, clean fermenters well, ferment well with healthy yeast.  That....... that is about it.

Cheers all.

I am starting to wonder if I am the only homebrewer left who brews this way.
Just filter my tap water for chlorine and brew.
I don't know if my beer is considered "fantastic" but they mostly turn out well.
I occasionly consider getting my water tested but never have.
Mash pH is something I do think about but without spending money on meter I can't really do anything about it.
The brewer at a local brewery is adament that "if your water tastes good to drink don't mess with it"

General Homebrew Discussion / pellet vs. leaf hops do I need to adjust?
« on: February 09, 2017, 02:12:27 PM »
If a recipe calls for leaf hops and I use pellet hops do I need to adjust the quantities?
Should I just use Beersmith to match the IBU's?

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Hop addition times to adjust for IBU's
« on: January 29, 2017, 01:42:10 PM »
To the OP's question - if I would have less than half of an ounce of a particular bag of hops, then I just add them at flameout or to the whirlpool. You get a little extra kick of hop flavor, but without significant IBU's/

I love this idea.  I think I'll use it.

I second that.
Good idea.

General Homebrew Discussion / Hop addition times to adjust for IBU's
« on: January 28, 2017, 01:12:24 PM »
Just wondering if anyone else does this, and what are your results?
I usually buy my hops by the ounce. And I don't like having leftovers.
As an example instead of say adding 0.6 oz. at 60 min. I add 1oz. at 40 min. I know taking this to extremes would change the hop flavor.

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