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Messages - dzlater

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271
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Hop mess.....
« on: February 06, 2011, 05:06:34 AM »
Umm.... why not just use bags ?
If the bags are large enough so the hops aren't compressed inside it works real well.
I use those paint strainer bags.
Easy cheap and reusable.

272
And if you check with hydrometer and it's done, (meaning you are at your desired finish gravity) you should still leave it alone for at least a week. The yeast are still in there working.
It could also be if your temperature dropped the yeast got cold and lazy.

273
Equipment and Software / Re: Did I do a stupid?
« on: February 02, 2011, 05:51:06 AM »
You know you were really hoping for the answer "your kettle is ruined, and since you need a new one you might as well upgrade to larger size"   ;)

274
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: how long on stir plate
« on: January 30, 2011, 06:21:33 AM »
If you're looking for more concrete answers...

I'd say 3 days for a 1.040 starter wort gravity to ferment out completely,
then minimum of 48 hours at 33F to chill and drop out the yeast before decanting and pitching.

It puzzles me why people say "a day or two" for yeast starters before brew day.  That doesn't jive with my experience.

Me thinks they don't chill and decant (what I actually do most of the time) OR they don't really have much experience doing such.

Purely my opinion.  Take it for what it is worth.

hen you consider that most of the cell growth occurs early in the cycle, I think its not a big deal if you don't let the yeast ferment out all the sugar in the starter.  Does seem like a lot of people pitch the whole starter, without decanting.  and pitching a starter at full krausen also seems to have a bit of an advantage although all the regular methods seem to work fine.  So I don't think the advice is indicative of someone not knowing what they're doing, they're just doing it a bit differently.

DZ while every time you open a fermentor/starter to the open air does increase the chance of contamination, its not a high likelihood event to begin with.  So I think you'll be fine with stepping up as you are doing.  Try and do your transfers quickly and in an area without a lot of drafts, this will minimize the amount of dust floating around in the air.
The one time I made a starter the morning of the day I brewed, it was the fastest fermentation has ever started for me. The yeast was going to town about an hour after pitching.
 And as far as my contamination worries you can all get ready for my "would you use this yeast" post complete with pictures.  ;)

275
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: how long on stir plate
« on: January 30, 2011, 05:00:35 AM »
Thanks for all the responses.
I let it go for 3 days and stuck it in the fridge.
A couple days later I got bored again and decided to see
if my stir plate would work with a gallon growler. (it does)
So I stepped the starter up to 2 liters.
I am thinking of letting it ferment out, chilling, and then transffering it to some mason jars
so I can measure it when I pitch, and save the extra.
Afraid I might be pushing my luck with this and am a little concerned about having it get contaminated from messing with it so much.


276
Yeast and Fermentation / how long on stir plate
« on: January 26, 2011, 01:44:46 PM »
I know a little better planning and forethought should have went into this but...
For xmas I was given an erlenmeyer flask for doing starters.
I had to play with it even though I wasn't planning to brew anytime soon.
So I took a bit of yeast I had in a jar from another batch and made about 800ml starter
let it ferment out and stuck it in the fridge. In the mean time I built me a stirplate, so of course I had to test it out, so I decanted the wort out of the flask poured in 1000ml of wort and stuck it on the stirplate last night.
I probably won't brew till one day next week, so I am wondering what is my best course of action?
I figured to leave it on the stir plate another day and then stick it in the fridge. Sound good?


277
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Complements
« on: January 26, 2011, 05:05:14 AM »
The best compliment I had was,another home brewer trying one of my beers, asking for the recipe and actually brewing it.

278
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Keg Fridge
« on: January 25, 2011, 05:00:30 AM »
I got my keg setup on line for around $200, 2 kegs, dual regulators, 2 picnic taps.
The regulators aren't the best but it works. I've managed to acquire three more kegs
2 for free and one for ten bucks at a flea market. Got a fridge @ the re-store for $60.

279
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Efficiency Calcs
« on: January 18, 2011, 05:06:07 AM »
Hi kerneldustjacket,
Thanks very much for you reply.  I was thinking of brew house efficiency.  Such as 70% of brew house efficiency.  I recently purchased Beersmith software and part of determining the grain bill for a recipe is adding in expected brew house efficiency %.  I think I've read someplace that there is a calculation to determine this figure from previous brews.  Also, (probably more pride than anything else) this calculation let's a brewer know how efficient they were at extracting fermentable sugars from their grain bill.  I'm just looking for the lazy brewers way of reaching this calculation.  Seems there are calculators to calculate almost anything these days!

I don't have Beersmith so I don't know exactly how they define certain terms.
But from what I understand there are several types of efficiency measured in brewing.

conversion efficiency: where you measure the gravity of the wort after conversion, but before sparging

mash efficiency: using the volume and gravity after the mash and sparge

brew house efficiency: which takes into account all the volume losses till the beer is actually packaged.

Mash efficiency is the one that I think most homebrewers are concerned about because it directly affects recipe formulation.
I suppose brewhouse efficieny is also important but I think most homebrewers just brew a slightly larger batch so they can be sure to get the finished amount of beer into the keg/bottles. I never actually tried to get a number for this.

280
All Grain Brewing / Re: Roasting your own grain
« on: January 16, 2011, 05:04:46 AM »
When I get my sack of grain from the local group buy
here is what I've laid out for my first try:

"victory 25L "  300F 25 min

"munich 10L" 250F 20min

"chocolate 175L" 400F 1 hour

"crystal 40L" following this procedure from http://barleypopmaker.info/2009/12/08/home-roasting-your-malts/

For Crystal/Caramel Malt soak 1-2 lbs of pale 2 row in just enough water to cover plus about an inch (make sure you use distilled, filtered tap, or spring water). Let soak for a few hours, but no less than 2 hours and no more than 24, I soak for 3 hours. Then Put grains into a pan and keep grains about 2″ deep then place into a preheated 180 degree oven (make sure you have a probe thermometer in the oven and not to let the temps inside the stewing grain to go above 160. If they do reduce your ovens temperature) for 1 1/2 hours. Then spread out grain into 2 separate pans and make sure the grains are no more than 1″ deep. Then increase temperature in over to 250 and let bake for 2 hours or until dry. Then if desired remove from oven for light crystal, or use the roasting guide above to create your own darker versions of crystal malt. Personally I like the 350 degrees for 45 minutes for a sweet roasty crystal malt. Experiment with 1lb batches and see what you like. I find that 1.5lbs is perfect, 2lbs seems to take way to long to dry.

281
All Grain Brewing / Re: Roasting your own grain
« on: January 15, 2011, 05:13:25 AM »
Thanks for posting. I will be roasting some grains soon so I am trying to get all the info I can.
You're right about the times and temps being all over the place.
I have one piece of info that says, "Vienna 100c for two hours" and another that says "vienna 105c for three hours"
Also I threw a probe thermometer in the oven yesterday and set it @375f  after it was preheated it ranged from 368 to 390. So I guess this going to take some experimentation.

282
All Grain Brewing / Re: First AG batch......
« on: January 14, 2011, 05:01:45 AM »
Well, lets see...... two row pale malt, ten pounds say 28 points = 280 There was also 1/2 pound of Crystal and a half pound of  Carapils so call that another 25 points for a total of 305...... I ended up with 5.25 gallons at 1056 so call it 294 points...... that puts me at 294/305*75=72.3%...so 72.5/75=96%...right?
I am not sure why  you are multiplying by 75 and then dividing by 75, it just cancels itself out.
The chart I use puts 2row @ 36 ppg and the carapils and crystal @ 35
so that's 360 + 35 for 395
5.25x56=294
294/395=.74



283
In regards to the original question of how big a starter to make from a harvested slurry.
I had the same question on another forum and this is the answer I was given.
I can't take credit for this.

Let's say I'm making a 1.060 ale, pitching 5.5 gallons. I have a jar of reharvested slurry that is exactly four weeks old from today, and the yeast is very compacted into a 50mL puck. I go to Mr Malty, set the parameters of my beer, set the age of the yeast, go to the "Reharvesting" tab, set the Yeast Concentration to 4.0, set the Non Yeast Percentage to 15.

Mr Malty says that I need 229billion healthy yeast cells, which would be 134mL of my yeast in its current state. I have 50mL, or 37% of what I need (50/134). If you multiply 37% by 229billion cells, you find that I have about 84billion healthy cells.

Here's where things get fuzzy. As I understand it, the Mr. Malty calculator works such that a vial of yeast with 100% viability has 100billion cells. So if I have 84 billion cells, this is the equivalent of having one vial of yeast at 84% viability, right? So then I flip to the Liquid Yeast tab, manually set my viability to 84%, set the Growth Factor so that it says I need 1 vial. Doing this, it says I need to make a 1.23L starter with a stir plate.


284
Can one determine how many cells are left after fermentation?  I washed my yeast for the first time yesterday(went well) and thought if I can divide it into approx 100 billion cells per container, I could treat each essentially as a tube/smack pack for subsequent starters. I guess yeast ranching qualifies as one of my 2011 brewing goals.  :)

I am not sure this would work , but it might get you close
maybe someone else can confirm
go to the pitching rate calculator http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html
click on the"repitching from slurry" tab
check the"calculate viabilty from date" box
set the date to whenever you harvested the yeast
set the "yeast concentration" slider bar to thin slurry
hit the calculate button
this will show you yeast needed and ml of slurry
take that ratio and step it up till you get the  100 billion to whatever ml
so if it says
336 billion and 397 ml
(397*100)/336
you would need about 118 ml of thin slurry for 100 billion cells

285
Equipment and Software / Re: stir plate alternative?
« on: December 29, 2010, 02:53:53 PM »
Found this today,  http://openwetware.org/wiki/DIYbio/FAQ/Projects#Bob_Horton.27s_Shaking_Incubator
I had one just about finished today, (without the heater) and the turntable belt snapped.  >:(
I was using a wooden box and thought I would use springs instead of the strings

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