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Messages - dzlater

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Beer Recipes / Dry Hopping w/ Willamette
« on: December 24, 2013, 03:32:33 PM »
I brewed an APA with these hops.
.5 oz challenger @ 60
.7 oz centenial @ 15
.3 oz simcoe @ 15
1 oz. centennial @5
1 oz. simcoe @ 5
.8 oz. sterling @ 0

Would dry hopping it with Willamette hops be a bad idea?
Or should I use one of the varieties that I used in the boil?

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Aerate before or after pitching?
« on: December 24, 2013, 03:18:47 AM »
I was recently looking at the Safale website, trying to decide it I wanted to bother rehydrating some dry yeast.
They recommended that if you don't rehydrate that you should sprinkle the yeast on top, wait 20 minutes and then aerate.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Last brew day for 2013
« on: December 20, 2013, 05:02:07 AM »
I'm going to brew up something this weekend. I might even do two batches.
Sunday they are calling a high of 70 that might not happen again for quite a while.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Sparge temp
« on: December 13, 2013, 05:31:05 AM »
I want to follow up on this sparge temp issue.  Clearly the previous posters who said that tannin extraction is due to pH are correct.  But I would argue that it is also a function of temperature.  According to a number of brewing experts (Palmer, et al.) one should not sparge with water over 170* specifically to avoid tannin extraction.

Now I am fairly sure that the experienced brewer who monitors the mash pH, can and does (as you have said you do) avoid tannin extraction above that temp.  What I am saying is that this practice should probably be left to those experienced brewers who know for sure it will work - but not for the new brewer nor should it be communicated that this is a general rule.

For the average home brewer the extremely small cost associated with the increase in efficiency is basically of no value, but the safety in being sure to avoid tannin extraction would be far more important IMO.

I hesitated in saying the above for a couple of days because I am not what I would call an expert home brewer, and as a consequence usually defer to those with more knowledge and experience... But I think I'm right on this point.  However, as always I am open to being corrected.

Steve, you can look at it this way...if your pH is good, you can sparge with water much hotter than 170 with no ill effects.  After all, if it was temp alone, decoction mashes wouldn't be done.But if your pH is off, it won't matter much what temp water you sparge'll still risk tannins.

That's interesting.
 Since I don't have any way to check pH I try and keep my sparge temps. under 170f just to be on the safe side. But your saying it doesn't make a differance?

The Pub / Re: Spirit distillation
« on: December 02, 2013, 04:03:44 AM »
I think owning a small still is fine (like a few gallons) but you can't use it for alcohol.
Not so sure about that.
Here in NJ someone recently got busted with a still.
The newspaper said he was arrested for having an "unregistered still". Not for manufacturing or possessing illegal licquor.

Beer Recipes / Re: IPA hop schedule & varieties?
« on: November 24, 2013, 04:20:35 PM »
OK I'll make a few changes
Don't use magnum for FWHs
No need for 10 and 5 min, additions
Use 50/50 centennial, simcoe for other additions
Sterling @ flameout for aroma
Do a hopstand/whirlpool addition
Dry hop.
Thanks for the tips

Beer Recipes / IPA hop schedule & varieties?
« on: November 24, 2013, 06:36:56 AM »
I could use a little recipe feed back.
I have a bunch of hops in my freezer, that want to use up.
So I am thinking of brewing up an IPA
I do have some other hops I could use: Bramling Cross, Challenger, Sterling, and EKG.
How's this look? I also plan on dry hopping.
IPA (American IPA)

Original Gravity (OG): 1.060  (°P): 14.7
Final Gravity (FG):    1.015  (°P): 3.8
Alcohol (ABV):         5.89 %
Colour (SRM):          4.4   (EBC): 8.7
Bitterness (IBU):      69.6   (Tinseth)

50% American 2-Row
50% Pale Ale Malt

1.00 oz Magnum Pellet (12.5% Alpha) @ 70 Minutes (First Wort) (0.2 oz/Gal)
0.50 oz Target Pellet (9% Alpha) @ 60 Minutes (Boil) (0.1 oz/Gal)
0.50 oz Centennial Pellet (9.7% Alpha) @ 20 Minutes (Boil) (0.1 oz/Gal)
0.50 oz Centennial Pellet (9.7% Alpha) @ 10 Minutes (Boil) (0.1 oz/Gal)
0.50 oz Simcoe Pellet (12.2% Alpha) @ 5 Minutes (Boil) (0.1 oz/Gal)
1.00 oz Simcoe Pellet (12.2% Alpha) @ 0 Minutes (Aroma) (0.2 oz/Gal)

Single step Infusion at 153°F for 60 Minutes. Boil for 60 Minutes

Fermented at 68°F with

Recipe Generated with BrewMate

why not just pour the chilled wort through a sanitized strainer? that advice goes back to Complete Joy of Homebrewing. standard procedure for most, i would think. pretty sure you don't really want all that stuff in your fermenter to make the best beer you can.
  I've done that too. I have a funnel that has a screen that snaps in.
Half the time I can't get the screen to sit right, or else it gets clogged so I have to stop poring and scrap the crap off the screen.

Thanks that makes sense.
This question actually arose from something I read on another forum.
It didn't make sense to me to add a fining to seperate out the break material, but then transfer it anyway.
When started brewing I would siphon, then I read that "it doesn't matter just dump it all in".
So I started doing that, because it was easier.
I was always paranoid about letting the wort sit in the kettle after I chilled.
Then I realized I could just put the lid on and let it sit for 15-20 minutes while it settled out and siphon the clear wort leaving the break material behind, I have done it that way the last few batches it works well for me. Though sometimes if I am lazy or in a hurry I still do the old pour method.

Is there any point in using whirl floc or other kettle finings if you are just going to dump all the break material into the carboy/bucket ?

Beer Recipes / Re: Mild APA - can it be done?
« on: November 05, 2013, 03:46:26 AM »
Couldn't one just take a an English Bitter recipe and Americanize the hops and yeast?

Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: Return of the kit
« on: November 03, 2013, 08:42:27 AM »
The Munton's stout has lost that "young beer" flavor after 17 days of cold conditioning and tastes pretty good. Gonna try and let it condition till February at least.

Meanwhile on NY eve I made a batch of the "Framboos" from Brewferm. It's a raspberry ale. Since one can only makes 12 liters I used two and instead of the cane sugar- 2# of DME to make 6 gallons. The pink krausen was hilarious. Now I need to bottle it in the next couple of days.

And last night I made Brewferm's Abdij "Abbey". Two cans and the DME again since one only makes 9 liters for this recipe. I pitched the yeast 1:13 after starting. Within 5 hours it was rocking away.

I plan to make some more Muntons and Coopers just to try the various types of their brews then move on to the American kits available. Something like Brewer's best and then maybe the one or two from the swathe NB advertises.

Hey euge, did you ever do any more kits? How did they turn out?
I wanted to brew something quick so I did a stove top extract partial boil last night. When I was at the shop picking up the DME and yeast, I saw they have a quite a few kits that look pretty good, and was thinking I might give one a try.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: lagering question
« on: October 30, 2013, 03:25:02 AM »
I empty the airlock and stick a cotten ball in it to act as a filter.

Beer Recipes / Re: Full Sail Wassail clone Hops IBU question
« on: October 10, 2013, 02:51:13 AM »
All I know is when I adjusted the hops to get my IBU's up to 55, the beer tasted more hoppy then the commercial beer.
If I did it again I'd follow the recipe only adjusting the hops for AA% and not worry about the IBU number that the software spits out.
I really should brew it again.

Beer Recipes / Re: Edel Hell
« on: October 06, 2013, 07:38:07 AM »
Last night I had a chance to drink Innstadt Edelsud I thought it was really good, the brewery is in the town that my Mom grew up in, so this was the beer my grandfather drank.
I recently got my hands on a temp controller, so I can now ferment lagers and I want to give Kaiser's Edel Hell recipe a try.
I have never messed with water additions or pH.
The recipe states that the acid malt is used to adjust the mash pH.
If I brew this with my tap water should I leave out the acid malt.
Will it still turn out OK?
I know the best thing would be to get a water report, or purchase RO water and work from there, but that isn't happening anytime soon.

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