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Messages - dzlater

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All Grain Brewing / Re: Water to grain ratio for mash tun.
« on: March 14, 2011, 12:28:57 PM »
I generally adjust my ratio to balance first and second runnings. For example, I started figuring 1.5qts/lb for a batch this weekend but found that, by moving that to 1.78qts/lb, I'd get equal first and second runnnings (and no mash out).
That's pretty much how I do it.
I figure my total water need divide by half, and if that's somewhere between 1 and 2 quarts per lb. I go with it.
I also only have a 5 gallon mash tun so I have to make sure it will fit, So sometimes I have to adjust for that too.

Equipment and Software / Re: Brewing Software for Mac
« on: March 14, 2011, 04:02:02 AM »
I have been using this
It works fairly well once you figure it out.

The Pub / Re: I set my clocks ahead this morning
« on: March 12, 2011, 10:03:35 AM »
I think the clocks should be moved forward an hour before quitting time on Friday afternoon

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: I'm going to make a checklist...
« on: March 11, 2011, 10:25:33 AM »
Mash tun on table
ball valve at crotch level
ball valve open with no hose attached
add mash water
not a pleasant experience

The Pub / Re: Rant: Belgium
« on: March 06, 2011, 05:41:55 AM »
and if you order a hefe you should get a glass of yeast

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: %#*!^ Wyeast 2035
« on: March 01, 2011, 05:04:46 AM »
One of the reasons for smack packs, and starters is to make sure the yeast is viable. If it doesn't matter then why go through the trouble?

It's nice if it swells up but if the pack is rough shape for whatever reason (age, partially frozen on delivery, etc) you might not get much swelling and still have viable yeast.  I don't even bother to let it swell.  I smack it while I'm boiling the starter and dump it in once it's cooled.  

I just stepped up a year-old pack of Thames Valley and it was very slow to start, to the point where I was getting concerned.  But I just let it go and it was fine.  The batch of ESB I pitched it into just finished up primary fermentation about two days ago. 

I hear what you are saying but if the wyeast website says:
"Expansion of the package is an indicator of healthy (viable and vital) yeast."
and the package doesn't swell, one can't just ignore it. (I realize that that's not what you said) Maybe they should put something on the packs saying if "it doesn't swell this might be the reason and to take these steps"
I was ready to take that dead looking smack pack back to the store, not because I thought it wouldn't work, but because I payed for a pack of healthy yeast and if the pack doesn't swell I am not getting what I payed for.
Same thing with starters I see it often recommended to "pitch at high  krausen"
and then I read a bunch of "I never see action in my starters"
Just saying, it gets confusing sometimes.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: %#*!^ Wyeast 2035
« on: February 28, 2011, 05:02:04 AM »
Did you let the starter ferment @ room temp before you put it in the fridge? If not warm it up.
Don't know if this will be of much help but it is a way to see if the yeast  is fermenting in starter.
I just had a similar experience with Wyeast 1026 British Cask Ale.
Smacked the pack and got very little swelling after a day.
But if I put it up to my ear I could hear it fizzing , so I figured something was going on.
I pitched into a starter and stuck it on the stir plate. Again I didn't see any action, no foaming, it looked dead and flat.
What I did was turned off the stir plate and stuck an airlock on it. After a few minutes I saw pressure on the air lock, and eventually it started bubbling. Removed the airlock and turned the stir plate back on. It's working away now in 5 gallons of bitter.
I looked around on the  internet for some advice of what to do if the smack pack doesn't swell or the starter looks dead.
I saw a lot of folks saying basically " it doesn't matter". One of the reasons for smack packs, and starters is to make sure the yeast is viable. If it doesn't matter then why go through the trouble?
OK that was kind of long and probably didn't help much.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Mash Out
« on: February 27, 2011, 04:59:21 AM »
I am not sure about this, but if conversion wasn't complete for whatever reason, and you did the mash out
which stops the enzymes. That might account for the low efficiency?

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: 19th century brewing techniques
« on: February 21, 2011, 06:35:49 AM »
Be careful for what you ask for...

19th and early 20th Century homebrew recipes are in this section.

Mostly British brewing focused, but someother sruff now and then.

I found this the other day, it's a list of links to all the recipes on the barclay perkins site.

All Things Food / Re: A crock pot is good for?
« on: February 14, 2011, 04:44:43 AM »
We did pulled pork recently, turned out pretty well.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Home Brewer TV on iTunes!
« on: February 12, 2011, 04:59:31 AM »
Thanks for the heads up, I have been hoping they would do that.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: weight/specific gravity/gravity points?
« on: February 10, 2011, 03:06:32 PM »
>>>>>>>>>>>>> Are you sure you measured right?  That's more dense than sugar itself, with no water.

Ummm yea I measured it wrong I thought it didn't seem right I was in a hurry.
I think I got this:
100 ml weighs 134 grams
so that's 340 gravity points
if I have 300ml of syrup, and my batch size is 20.82 L (5.5 gallons)
that gives me a total volume of volume of 21.11
340 x .3= 102 gravity points
102/21.11=4.83 points add
or close enough for homebrew

General Homebrew Discussion / weight/specific gravity/gravity points?
« on: February 10, 2011, 11:20:36 AM »
First can someone tell me if I understand this correctly?
If 100 ml of a sugar syrup weighs 359.58 grams, it has a specific gravity of 3.59?
or do you subtract out the 100 gm of for the weight of the water and come out with 2.59?
Assuming that I have one of those right,
how would I figure how many gravity points it would add to a batch of beer?

Last brew day my dial thermometers were all reading different, and none of them were matching the digital.
 I finally realized you could turn the nut on stem to adjust them.
Doh! :-[

All Grain Brewing / Re: Roasting your own grain
« on: February 07, 2011, 05:28:15 AM »
Did my roasting experiment the other day. It worked out OK.
Toasting the malt to a low lovibond was easy.
When doing the darker roast it was hard to get them to an even color.
The crystal worked out real nice, took a long time but they smelled and tasted really good.
I was aiming for a C40 but I think I overshot that.
Brewed with it yesterday wort tasted really nice.
Here is pic of the crystal, I am guessing 100L?

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