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Messages - dzlater

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61
General Homebrew Discussion / Idea for siphoning to keg?
« on: January 09, 2014, 04:28:39 AM »
Any one think this is a bad idea?
Pressurize the keg.
Put a dissconnect on the end of the hose.
Place the other end of the hose in the fermenter.
Attach the dissconect to the out post of the keg, release the pressure release valve to draw a vacuum and start the siphon.

62
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Is -20 too cold to brew?
« on: January 07, 2014, 04:57:19 AM »
I've brewed outdoors with the temps. in the 30's.
On occasion if it's cold and windy I'll put the burner in the garage with door cracked a couple of feet. I have also done the mash in the kitchen and the boil outdoors.
My daughter gave me three new three gallon kegs for Christmas so I will probably do a few smaller batches in the kitchen this winter.
Also here in Jersey it usually doesn't stay really cold for that long a time, for example today's high is supposed to be 24 but Saturday it calls for a high of 53. So no need to freeze my ass off today when I can wait a few days and enjoy my brew day.

63
I have a stainless domed false bottom for my round cooler.
I used it for quite a while. Never could get the wort to run clear, and I had to run off real slow or else I'd get a stuck sparge.
I started to put the grain a grain bag in the tun with the false bottom. I got a much clearer run off, and if the sparge stuck I could just lift out the grain bag.
Finally I got smart and switched to a hose braid, wish I would have done that from the start. But I had some fool idea that I wanted to fly sparge and just had to have the false bottom.

64
Beer Recipes / Re: Dry Hopping w/ Willamette
« on: December 29, 2013, 05:16:08 AM »
Nothing yet, but I but I don't plan on using the Willamette.
Most likely will go with the simcoe/ centennial.




65
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Simple Aeration?
« on: December 29, 2013, 05:12:27 AM »
I just shake it.

66
Beer Recipes / Dry Hopping w/ Willamette
« on: December 24, 2013, 03:32:33 PM »
I brewed an APA with these hops.
.5 oz challenger @ 60
.7 oz centenial @ 15
.3 oz simcoe @ 15
1 oz. centennial @5
1 oz. simcoe @ 5
.8 oz. sterling @ 0

Would dry hopping it with Willamette hops be a bad idea?
Or should I use one of the varieties that I used in the boil?







67
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Aerate before or after pitching?
« on: December 24, 2013, 03:18:47 AM »
I was recently looking at the Safale website, trying to decide it I wanted to bother rehydrating some dry yeast.
They recommended that if you don't rehydrate that you should sprinkle the yeast on top, wait 20 minutes and then aerate.

68
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Last brew day for 2013
« on: December 20, 2013, 05:02:07 AM »
I'm going to brew up something this weekend. I might even do two batches.
Sunday they are calling a high of 70 that might not happen again for quite a while.

69
All Grain Brewing / Re: Sparge temp
« on: December 13, 2013, 05:31:05 AM »
I want to follow up on this sparge temp issue.  Clearly the previous posters who said that tannin extraction is due to pH are correct.  But I would argue that it is also a function of temperature.  According to a number of brewing experts (Palmer, et al.) one should not sparge with water over 170* specifically to avoid tannin extraction.

Now I am fairly sure that the experienced brewer who monitors the mash pH, can and does (as you have said you do) avoid tannin extraction above that temp.  What I am saying is that this practice should probably be left to those experienced brewers who know for sure it will work - but not for the new brewer nor should it be communicated that this is a general rule.

For the average home brewer the extremely small cost associated with the increase in efficiency is basically of no value, but the safety in being sure to avoid tannin extraction would be far more important IMO.

I hesitated in saying the above for a couple of days because I am not what I would call an expert home brewer, and as a consequence usually defer to those with more knowledge and experience... But I think I'm right on this point.  However, as always I am open to being corrected.

Steve, you can look at it this way...if your pH is good, you can sparge with water much hotter than 170 with no ill effects.  After all, if it was temp alone, decoction mashes wouldn't be done.But if your pH is off, it won't matter much what temp water you sparge with...you'll still risk tannins.

That's interesting.
 Since I don't have any way to check pH I try and keep my sparge temps. under 170f just to be on the safe side. But your saying it doesn't make a differance?

70
The Pub / Re: Spirit distillation
« on: December 02, 2013, 04:03:44 AM »
I think owning a small still is fine (like a few gallons) but you can't use it for alcohol.
Not so sure about that.
Here in NJ someone recently got busted with a still.
The newspaper said he was arrested for having an "unregistered still". Not for manufacturing or possessing illegal licquor.
http://www.nj.com/news/index.ssf/2013/01/police_medford_man_making_moon.html

71
Beer Recipes / Re: IPA hop schedule & varieties?
« on: November 24, 2013, 04:20:35 PM »
OK I'll make a few changes
Don't use magnum for FWHs
No need for 10 and 5 min, additions
Use 50/50 centennial, simcoe for other additions
Sterling @ flameout for aroma
Do a hopstand/whirlpool addition
Dry hop.
Thanks for the tips



72
Beer Recipes / IPA hop schedule & varieties?
« on: November 24, 2013, 06:36:56 AM »
I could use a little recipe feed back.
I have a bunch of hops in my freezer, that want to use up.
So I am thinking of brewing up an IPA
I do have some other hops I could use: Bramling Cross, Challenger, Sterling, and EKG.
How's this look? I also plan on dry hopping.
IPA (American IPA)

Original Gravity (OG): 1.060  (°P): 14.7
Final Gravity (FG):    1.015  (°P): 3.8
Alcohol (ABV):         5.89 %
Colour (SRM):          4.4   (EBC): 8.7
Bitterness (IBU):      69.6   (Tinseth)

50% American 2-Row
50% Pale Ale Malt

1.00 oz Magnum Pellet (12.5% Alpha) @ 70 Minutes (First Wort) (0.2 oz/Gal)
0.50 oz Target Pellet (9% Alpha) @ 60 Minutes (Boil) (0.1 oz/Gal)
0.50 oz Centennial Pellet (9.7% Alpha) @ 20 Minutes (Boil) (0.1 oz/Gal)
0.50 oz Centennial Pellet (9.7% Alpha) @ 10 Minutes (Boil) (0.1 oz/Gal)
0.50 oz Simcoe Pellet (12.2% Alpha) @ 5 Minutes (Boil) (0.1 oz/Gal)
1.00 oz Simcoe Pellet (12.2% Alpha) @ 0 Minutes (Aroma) (0.2 oz/Gal)

Single step Infusion at 153°F for 60 Minutes. Boil for 60 Minutes

Fermented at 68°F with


Recipe Generated with BrewMate

73
why not just pour the chilled wort through a sanitized strainer? that advice goes back to Complete Joy of Homebrewing. standard procedure for most, i would think. pretty sure you don't really want all that stuff in your fermenter to make the best beer you can.
  I've done that too. I have a funnel that has a screen that snaps in.
Half the time I can't get the screen to sit right, or else it gets clogged so I have to stop poring and scrap the crap off the screen.

74
Thanks that makes sense.
This question actually arose from something I read on another forum.
It didn't make sense to me to add a fining to seperate out the break material, but then transfer it anyway.
When started brewing I would siphon, then I read that "it doesn't matter just dump it all in".
So I started doing that, because it was easier.
I was always paranoid about letting the wort sit in the kettle after I chilled.
Then I realized I could just put the lid on and let it sit for 15-20 minutes while it settled out and siphon the clear wort leaving the break material behind, I have done it that way the last few batches it works well for me. Though sometimes if I am lazy or in a hurry I still do the old pour method.

75
Is there any point in using whirl floc or other kettle finings if you are just going to dump all the break material into the carboy/bucket ?









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