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Messages - Jeff M

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General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Fruit flies
« on: July 10, 2014, 06:04:25 PM »
the snakes are the ones that ive read funky stories about.  Babies sleeping in garden hoses, crawling up pipes etc.  Ill take them fruit flies any day!

Equipment and Software / Sanke Kegs: How to
« on: July 10, 2014, 05:55:26 PM »
So id like to understand more about Sanke Kegs and get half a dozen or so sixtels to play with.  Does anyone have any reading resources etc they could recommend, and a brand they like that isnt crazy expensive.  A list of items needed to maintain it would be good too.


General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Fruit flies
« on: July 10, 2014, 05:38:24 PM »
Fruit flies, ground hogs...I periodically have a scorpion show up at our house. That makes the fruit flies seem minor!

Better knock on wood, you have other, far nastier, things in FL that could wind up in your house.

Beer Recipes / Re: A better light lager?
« on: July 10, 2014, 04:39:12 PM »
ID skip the flaked and go right to Rice solids.  No sticky mash for you!

Ingredients / Re: Equinox Hops
« on: July 10, 2014, 03:37:42 PM »

IF i where to make descriptions to sell that hop i would also leave out that last descriptor... If i wanted people to buy it anyway...

and fire whoever allowed 'very unique' into a published document.

My mom always said i was "Very Unique".  Time to fire her!

Ingredients / Re: Equinox Hops
« on: July 10, 2014, 03:17:08 PM »

IF i where to make descriptions to sell that hop i would also leave out that last descriptor... If i wanted people to buy it anyway...

Ingredients / Re: Equinox Hops
« on: July 10, 2014, 02:55:56 PM »
We have a bunch at the HBS i work at.  They sounded great until i read the last descriptor.  "green peppers".  I do NOT want Green Peppers in my beer. Of course id ont like green peppers but it just doesnt sound good to me.  I will probably still try them at some point.


In my 20-30g Batches i use  therminator.  Takes about 15 minutes to get the batch down to temp.  Usually gets to within 5f of the source water depending on how fast i flow the wort threw the chiller.  The biggest problem with plate chillers is making sure the gunk doesnt go in it, so i use a hop rocket as a grant and use either whole leaf hops, rice hulls, ore SS scrubbies as a filter bed depending on what im doing.

If you are Chilling a Lager you want to recirc the chilled wort into the kettle instead of go direc tot fermenter to keep as many DMS Precursers out of the lager as possible.  I would chill to about 70f and use my ferm control to get to lager ferm temps.


Kegging and Bottling / Re: Opening up commercial Grundy kegs
« on: July 10, 2014, 12:56:18 PM »
There is a Sanke Spear removal tool out on the market.  I havent done any research on Sankes yet but it may help your woes?


General Homebrew Discussion / Re: when is the fermenting finished?
« on: July 10, 2014, 01:52:22 AM »
That seems like a pretty good "schedule" for ferm times. I have not been rushing anything anymore, or so I thought, but I did bottle my double hazelnut brown (1.085 down to 1.015) after only 3 weeks and my RIS (1.095-1.026) after 4. Both could have used a little more time even though the brown was  attenuated well below predicted and RIS had just stalled completely

Sent from The Alpine Brewery using Tapatalk

Both examples could acctually eek out a couple of more points over time.  With those big beers it really does pay to secondary them for an extended time.  3 points over 2 months in secondary is fine, but those 3 points in bottles can add up to a hugely(double or more) overcarbed beer.


Hop Growing / Re: Note to Self
« on: July 10, 2014, 12:54:44 AM »
So how long DOES it take you to mow your lawn?


Equipment and Software / Re: Cleaning a Blichmann Floor Burner
« on: July 10, 2014, 12:53:36 AM »
If it bugs you that much you can soak the SS in starsan for 12-24 hours.  should remove everything, but you may need to apply a little elbow grease.  The burner itself is probably some sort of Iron alloy, best to leave this alone so you dont cause any premature rusting

Kegging and Bottling / Re: leaking Co2 connections
« on: July 09, 2014, 07:32:54 PM »
Ive been using liquid plumbing teflon to good effect.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: when is the fermenting finished?
« on: July 09, 2014, 03:39:24 PM »
The best advice I can think of:  When airlock bubbling stops, then wait another day or two, then take a gravity reading.  Then, wait 3 more days, then take another gravity reading.  If the readings changed by exactly zero points, then it is safe to bottle.  If the readings changed by one or two points, then it is NOT safe to bottle.  Wait another 3 days, then take another reading.  When readings stay the same over the course of several days, it is safe to bottle.

+1.  I will also add that what an airlock is doing does not definitively determine what the yeast are doing.  A good rule of thumb that i have found when fermenting ales is a week to ferment before taking a gravity reading, then give it 3 days and check again. 

Edit- And also remember, as a beer brewery you are a glorified janitor, make sure all your equipment and anything else that touches the beer is clean and sanitized and you will have much better results.


Equipment and Software / Re: Speidel Fermenter airlock
« on: July 09, 2014, 03:32:55 PM »
Has anyone noticed that the cap on the airlock "floats"? I've noticed that it doesn't close completely and that it moves up and down once CO2 starts coming up out of the tank.

Thanks for the spoiler;)

I kid of course,

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