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Messages - Jeff M

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121
Beer Recipes / Re: Recipe Help
« on: July 07, 2014, 07:27:19 PM »
Another option is to use ~20-30% Munich LME in place of your XLight DME. That will add some more malt character without going the crystal route. But as it's been said, there's nothing wrong with up to a pound of C40 in an IPA if you like it, just make sure it finishes dry enough.

I designed(with a coworker) a series of beers at the HBS i work at that uses a can of munich LME and 3lbs of light DME.  Its tasty tasty stuff.

The reason most people tell you to sub in table sugar(i use dextrose typically) is because LME & DME sugar profiles are set in stone, and usually at 75% fermentable.  For some beer styles where you want residual sweetness that ok, but in the IPA/APA style its not very favorable.

Hope that helps,
Jeff

122
Equipment and Software / Re: Spiedels
« on: July 07, 2014, 03:42:05 PM »
I measured water and poured it in to make some marks. 5, 5 1/2, and 6 gallon marks. I'm not looking at them right now, but it seems that 5 is about dead center.

awesome, thanks Jim.  I grabbed a 60L.  Should fit my needs best.

Cheers,
Jeff

123
Equipment and Software / Re: Spiedels
« on: July 07, 2014, 08:27:13 AM »
I have never used a Spiedel fermenter, so excuse my ignorance.  However 30 l = ~ 8 gal.

This. assuming the include ~20% extra capacity as built in headspace your still short by a couple liters for a 10 gallon batch.

Thats what i thought, but i know i have read people saying that they are much bigger then the advetized amount.  I wonder if they use Imperial Litres instead of metric or some sillyness.

124
Equipment and Software / Spiedels
« on: July 07, 2014, 06:21:18 AM »
For those of you that have Spiedel Fermentors,  Can you fit a 10G batch of ale in the 30L to ferment with no risk of blowoff, or should i just hedge my bets and get the 60l?  Any input would be great.
Cheers,
Jeff

125
Beer Recipes / Re: Recipe Help
« on: July 07, 2014, 05:33:20 AM »
I wouldnt use the mosaic with those other personally.  I would also not use the crystal malt because IPA's prefer to be dry.  Determine what you want for a SG and use that much DME.  determine what you want for ibus.  I prefer int he 40-50 range. I dislike big citrus bitter bombs that make me feel like i was drinking lemon juice.  Splt your hops between 60 min bitter additions, 5-15 minute flavor additionas and 1-3 dryhop additions.

Simple!

Jeff

126
Equipment and Software / Re: Stout Tanks single tier herms build
« on: July 06, 2014, 04:45:11 AM »
Why order 3 burners.  In a HERMS build the MLT is not directly heated but rely's on heat exchange between a fired kettle and the MLT itself.  IF you havent ordered the third one yet save yourself the money and stick with 2:)

Cheers,
Jeff

http://www.brewersfriend.com/2009/02/22/introduction-to-rims-and-herms/

127
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Fruit flies
« on: July 05, 2014, 07:29:12 PM »
They make Faucet Caps that are fairly effective.  And also Cheap.  ID get 1 for each tap and put it on right after pouring.

128
Beer Recipes / Re: NB's Plinian Legacy
« on: July 05, 2014, 07:11:57 PM »
I had severe acute bronchitis last winter followed by long-term recovery with assistance of corticosteroids -- ended up in Urgent Care twice and the ER once, I believe largely since nobody seems willing to prescribe strong antibiotics these days except when it approaches malpractice.

Anyway, I have been supporting my lungs' ability to rebound hopefully completely, and so last winter I bought a couple air purifiers to help with that, and in part as a defensive measure due to a nearby neighbor who likes to burn noxious wood in his woodstove in winter, and his crap smoke blows against my house.

I also have low to moderate seasonal allergies to pollen/grass/trees/mold.

Anyway, in case you're interested you might at least seasonally consider an air purifier.  The one via the link below is whisper quiet, works very well, and has provided me with lots of relief and clear air passages, both lungs and sinus, especially overnight via the one in the bedroom.  My other one is in my living room.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0067D7CKU/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Try eating Raw Local Honey 1-2 times a day.  It will help with this type of allergy.

/Derail Thread

129
Other Fermentables / Re: Mead recipe
« on: July 04, 2014, 08:26:28 PM »
I have a fizz-X.  so i will "whip it good" before adding the nutrients.

Cheers,
Jeff

130
Other Fermentables / Re: Mead recipe
« on: July 04, 2014, 08:25:39 PM »
  It's almost worth doing just one time, to see what happens.

This part isnt super helpful to my cleaning times;)

131
Other Fermentables / Re: Mead recipe
« on: July 04, 2014, 06:43:34 PM »
Thanks Man, ill go with a teaspoon at day 0-3.  I have fermaid k so it should work perfectly.  Ill mix it with a little water to get the DAP dissolved and then pitch.  Should i aerate at the same time?   Also, i have 2 packages of dry wine yeast, should i re hydrate it in water the same way i do fermentis yeast or is there a different protocol?

Cheers,
Jeff

133
Equipment and Software / Re: Si Hoses & Camlocks
« on: July 04, 2014, 05:35:32 PM »
Nope, the 1/2 Silicone hose fits on a 1/2 barb perfectly. you should of course use smooth band hose clamps to keep the hose on the barb.  I have not had any failures.  The closest i have come is to much pressure from a pump causing a hose to balloon, and that is not a barb issue.  Thats a careless person issue:)

134
Equipment and Software / Re: Si Hoses & Camlocks
« on: July 04, 2014, 05:02:19 PM »
I personally prefer the female camlock with female 1/2 NPt with a 1/2 male barb with male NPT thread.  It gives more heft, more area to hold, and better flow because you are right, the camlock barbs are very narrow.

135
Pimp My System / Re: GCBC 1BBL Pilot Build
« on: July 04, 2014, 01:12:12 PM »
In the process of planning my Ferm Chamber.  Im going to Cool it with a 5k BTU AC and heat it with a small personal Heater.  It will be 4x6x8 and will accommodate my 1bbl conical with room for a second conical and 4-6 bucket fermenters for oddball fermentations/yeast experiments.



Feel Free to browse through the design, it may be hard to read cause its pencil and paper.  My plan is to use 2x4's for the structure and 3 inches of Foam board to make it about R15.  I will be using Pressure Treated wood for the floor because it will rest directly on the floor and id like to resist any water and bugs that may want to invade.  Would love to hear Criticism, I am hardly a engineer.

Jeff

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