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Messages - Jeff M

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151
Commercial Beer Reviews / Re: Bigfoot verticle
« on: January 24, 2014, 04:53:27 PM »
Mort,
How do you store the beers you are saving?  I think cool and dark but do you store them upside down? on there side?  Any advice woul dbe great:)

Cheers!

I have a less than ideal cellaring situation. I try to keep the temp as constant and as close to 50f as possible store them upright. For me this means storing as many as will fit in my serving fridge, some in my fermenting fridge and the rest in a closet that is as close to the center of my house as I can manage in order to avoid big temp swings throughout the day.

The storing on the side or upside down thing works for wine because it helps keep the corks moist so they don't shrink but even corked beer bottles don't want/need to be stored on their sides because the cork is held so much larger than the opening it's not going to get lose even if it dries out a bit and contact between beer and cork can cause corked beer. even wine can get corked but it's a balance of risk thing. At least that's how I understand it.

Cool thanks, The reason i was thinking upside down is because i know you said you lost a beer to evaporation, so i assumed a beer barrier between the crown and the environment would help!

152
Commercial Beer Reviews / Re: Bigfoot verticle
« on: January 24, 2014, 04:32:46 PM »
Mort,
How do you store the beers you are saving?  I think cool and dark but do you store them upside down? on there side?  Any advice woul dbe great:)

Cheers!

153
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Wow!
« on: January 24, 2014, 05:28:15 AM »
This is apparently what happens when your process gets tightened up. Now I NEED a lagering freezer, like soon.

Better get one that fits those nice new much wider fermenters more efficiently then;)

154
Permanently Wet... you're reeeeeally testing my maturity level.


Is there such a thing? ::)

155
Equipment and Software / Re: "Permanently Wet" Coating for containers
« on: January 23, 2014, 05:13:44 PM »
Would probably work awesome in a blowoff tube so all the yeast and crud doesnt get stuck in it.

156
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Stop That Lager!
« on: January 23, 2014, 05:04:32 PM »
Sean, do you have a link to a good set of pro brewer level hydrometers?

Would be interesting to look at the difference between those and the cheap ones we use:)

Jeff

157
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: AHA Financials
« on: January 23, 2014, 05:27:04 AM »
Political alert?

Anyway...

Right here's how I feel about this. I joined the AHA last year. Renewed last year too. Cheap cheap compared to the value of education I've received. I consider the magazine a super bonus freebie, AND I made the main article just about 14 months into my brewing career. So I must say, they recognize sheer genius. I'm kind of a big deal now. Most famous homebrewer on the block. But I rabbit trail...

Maybe the AHA ought to be run like an MC. Let the right people hang around a while, if they really fit in let the Prospect for a year or five, then if their lucky and sell their soul, they can be members. Lol

Bottom line, free country. Join, don't join, I don't care. To those who run this joint, thanks for all you do.

OMG its Klickitat Jim, Can i have your autograph mister?!?!    ;D

158
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Out on a limb mixing yeast IIPLA
« on: January 23, 2014, 05:14:57 AM »
The krausen looks like WL810, but with the flocculation of the kolsch which is what i was going for.  I thought the lager yeast might dominate, so pitched less. I've never seen chunks of yeast this big in suspension so violently.  Certainly not from either of these yeasts by themselves.

No surprise there, you started a turf war!

159
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Have Brett T, will brew
« on: January 22, 2014, 09:20:47 PM »
I have some of this in the fridge and want to use it for a 100% Brett beer.  I'm having a hard time deciding what kind of beer to brew..  I'm kind of thinking American Wheat and an IPA using Galaxy as my finishing hops for both styles.

Have you asked yourself "what will Brett bring to the beer im thinking about brewing?"

As a side note, can Brett survive in a hop heavy beer?  Obviously Hops where used for their antiseptic qualtities so is there some sort of theshhold for brett fermentations with hops?

Cheers,
Jeff

160
This is from a different site.  I dont have any experience with nitro mixes.

I generally force carbonate my beer straight after a period of cold crashing - so it will be pretty clse to 0 deg C.

The process for force carbonating a beer in preparation for serving for nitrogen is just a shortened version of how I normally force carbonate as described below:

1. Set your Co2 pressure to about 40-45psi and connect to the keg.
2. Force air out by bleeding keg through release valve.
3. Invert the keg and shake/roll to encourage the dissolution of co2 into the beer.
4. After a while (more on this below), turn the keg the right way up, close the tap on the co2 tank then roll/agitate the keg on it's base to allow the pressure in the headspace to disperse into the beer and to equalize.
5. By watching where the pressure gauge finally settles as you agitate the keg, you will be ale to see how much pressure you have forced into the beer thus far.
6. Repeat from step 3. until the equalized pressure is at or just below the target carbonation for your beer.

Non nitrogen beers still benefit from 4 - 5 days conditioning as the carbonation becomes finer and less soda-like. Nitrogen served beers seem to be fine right there and then as the nitrogen has a much finer mouthfeel than Co2 to start with. As I mentioned earlier, the nitrogen masks a lot of flavour too (seems to be the defining characteristic of 'smooth-pour' beers), meaning that it's drinkable sooner.

Regarding how long to agitate for: It takes a bit of experience to know how long to 'force' it for before measuring it but it's generally a couple of minutes for a higher carbonated beer or for the aforementioned stout, about 30 seconds. In any case, dropping the pressure is a matter of letting the beer sit for a day or 2 with the release valve twisted open.


I use a nitrogen mix of 20% Co2/80% N - here in NZ its called Cellamix 12. There are other versions with higher Co2 and they are also used for serving stouts and other smooth pour beers - but it was explained to me that one of the main uses for the higher Co2 mixes was to maintain the pressure of beers in kegs for a long time without the risk of overcarbonation, which seems to happen with partially full kegs left at servig Co2 pressure.

[EDIT] Forgot to mention that you will need to hold the keg pressure at much higher levels with nitrogen mixes - basically, the less Co2, the higher the pressure. I leave my 20/80 mix at around 30-35psi. Guinness recommend 20/80 mix at 40psi but I find this results in with too much head on the beer after a week or so in the keg.

161
All Grain Brewing / Re: BIAB advice
« on: January 22, 2014, 08:48:55 PM »
A dip tub attached to the inside fitting of your Ball valve my server you better then tipping your kettle.  Best of both worlds eh?

Cheers,
Jeff

162
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Stop That Lager!
« on: January 22, 2014, 08:29:08 PM »
Kal Over at TEB put this together.  Might help answer some of your questions?  Might raise a few more even!

http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=26975

Cheers,
Jeff

163
Beer Recipes / Re: Marzen
« on: January 22, 2014, 06:30:36 PM »
I don't mind some Cara-Munich in ones I make, not too much. You want this to be malty, but to finish neutral to slightly dry. One key to that is a good attenuation, so I would recommend a step mash. If not a step mash 153F would be my choice.

As for water, consult the water presentation Martin did in Philly, and use the modified Munich water as a target, or the Amber malty.

Did they give you any hints on the yeast? Has it been in their brewery long enough to call their own strain?

I don't know how long it's been with the brewery but they are calling it their own. it's not a strain generally available through White labs for sure. As Steve points out they do a decent fest marzen and in fact that's the one that my wife likes so much.

I don't really want to just use the grist they use cause, well, cause I like doing things for myself.

What I'm hearing is to maximize malty character but not at the expense of a dry/semi-fry finish. If I want I can probably put 1-5% medium crystal/cara without danger of overdoing the maltiness.

Sounds like on the hop front, a bittering charge and maybe a late boil charge of something noble.

I'll work the numbers and see what I have in the freezer hop wise already and post back with an initial run at it.

I would think it the Hop Bill doesnt even need to be noble, just something herbal and spicy, not in your face citrus. 

164
Beer Recipes / Re: Basic Recipes help
« on: January 22, 2014, 06:23:33 PM »
My process has been think of an idea and try and build a recipe via the suggestions in the BJCP Style Guidelines. Then ill refer to literature to check for accuracy and anything i missed. ill brew these and then refine from there.

165
Ingredients / Re: malting
« on: January 22, 2014, 05:47:06 AM »
Neat, altho i was under the impression that barley only put out 1 sprout. I was surprised to see that most of them seem to have 3!
Most of the drawings I've seen have 3-5 "chits" or rootlets.  There's one "acrospire" that will be the indicator of when the conversion has taken place.  So far I don't see much indicator of that.  But, it's early.  :)

Ah! so i was mixing up the bottom with the top.  I could of sworn the pictures(not many tbh) i had looked at only had an acrospire showing first without the rootlets.

Cheers,
Jeff

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