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Topics - blatz

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Other Fermentables / Water Profile For Mead
« on: December 19, 2012, 02:47:58 PM »
So...I'm making a traditional mead with orange blossom this weekend.  I use RO water - should I be adding any salts to the water?

Also, does mead create a large krausen?  Concerned about having enough head space in my fermenter.


Pimp My System / Blatzhaus Electric Brauerei
« on: December 12, 2012, 01:57:29 PM »
Some of you have seen my brew stand build, but now I think I'm ready to show off the whole brewhaus, in a brew day illustrative...

Here's the brewery - strike water heating up in the Herms to the right.  The two upright freezers to the left hold 14.5 gal conicals

Control Panel:

Here's Brewdog Walden requesting to come supervise

HLT warming up:

Weighing out the grains:

Getting the mill ready:

Mast tun getting ready for strike water and grain...

Moving the strike water to the mash tun and striking in on an American Stout...

Boil Kettle getting prepped for wort...

Spider now in place...

The wort was fly sparged and sent to the boil kettle, now we are just finishing the hot break stage...

Cascades getting ready to swim...

Recirculating chilling and whirlpool going on now, hops removed via the basket - double ganged CFCs - one with hose water, one with recirced ice water - coming out at a nice 55df (though I can get down to 45df if I want...

Now pumping to the conical...

Is it beer time yet?


I didn't take any pictures of cleanup, cause, hey cleanup sucks, but basically dump out the grains, recirc PBW CIP and the fresh water, wet vac out the standing water and we're done...

Brewing's rich reward...

Cheers guys!

*edit* adjusted links.

Ingredients / How to add salts to sparge water when fly sparging?
« on: December 10, 2012, 02:44:08 PM »
Recently switched to fly sparging - third batch this weekend on my new setup.  My question is how do I add my water adjustment salts to my sparge? 

You can't add them to the HLT (not very soluble - they just sink and stick to the bottom of the kettle) and you can't still the mash at the point of sparging since it will disturb the grain bed, plus you still have the first wort in there.

With batch sparging, I would just throw the salts on top of the mash, add the sparge water and then stir.

What do y'all do? 

General Homebrew Discussion / Dryhopping in bags: Am I Oxidizing?
« on: December 02, 2012, 04:05:12 PM »
Hey all - I ferment in conicals and thus have to use bags.  Every other day I use some santized tongs to coerce the hop bags to submerge in the beer, but am I running a high risk of oxidizing? 

The reason I do it is the bags float and there are hops on the top side of the bag not getting wet if i don't flip the bag.

Ingredients / WL833 - Bock Lager - Czech Pils?
« on: November 19, 2012, 09:26:00 PM »
Hey all - I usually use 830 but am looking to experiment with using 833 in a vienna, dunkel and golden bock

But before I get into that series, I was looking to brew a Czech Pils - anyone tried a Czech Pils using 833 - I know its not the ideal yeast, but I was hoping to get a good slurry going and this would be an ideal starting point.

General Homebrew Discussion / Another Whirlpooling Question
« on: November 06, 2012, 04:23:18 PM »
This topic has me fascinated, as you might tell.  Yes, I do have Mitch's book on my nightstand, but I haven't had a chance to crack it yet, and frankly, I think I need to make some time to sit on the porch with a few IPAs in order to get the full effect.

In any event, in looking at some emails from the pros such as this:

Happy to help out. Here's an outline of the recipe. You'll have to tailor it to your brew length and efficiency. Hopefully this gets you close.

S.G. 1.060
IBU's 70

Grain Bill:

2-Row 84%
Pale Ale Malt 13%
Crystal 60L 3%


Bittering - Warrior
Flavoring - Simcoe (added every 5 minutes for the last 30 minutes of boil)
Whirlpool - Santiam
Dry Hop - Amarillo

We use Chico and ferment at 68F.

Let me know if you have any questions.

knowing that pros,in a lot of cases, have separate tanks to do their whirlpooling (and subsequent whirlpool hop additions) adn thus strain/filter the boil before moving to the whirlpool tank, would it make sense to remove or strain out any boil hop additions to more closely mimic this (typically via hopbags) ? 

Also, I am thinking that for instance with the above recipe (for Smutty's Finestkind IPA - a fave) it would hopefully stop the isomerziation of the late boil additions of Simcoe.  This is one thing I have a hard time figuring - if we are getting a bunch of isomerization with whirlpool additions, than aren't any late additions to the boil are also continuing to isomerize?  Thus if you whirlpool for 45 minutes, your 20 min boil additions are really sort of like bittering (65 min) additions?


Equipment and Software / Help!! Pickup Tube/Chilling/Whirlpool Dilemma
« on: November 05, 2012, 08:29:26 PM »
Did my first brew with my new 20gal Blichmann Boilermakers this weekend, and used a Hop Stopper ( . Unfortunately, it clogged pretty severely and I lost about 2.5 gal of wort.

I did not see the warnings about not being able to recirculate wort or whirlpool both of which I did, so it is likely user error, but I do like to be able to recirculate for whirlpooling capabilities and to be able to incorporate 2 stage chilling (1 pass with groundwater, another pass with .

I am doing some research to come up with a better method but I am really confused as to what to try next  :-[

I've come up with some options, and would like some of your input:

1). Continue using the HopStopper, but use as directed - this will not allow me to whirlpool ever, nor even recirculate through the CFC in order to sanitize.  I could then run through my CFC with groundwater and through a second CFC where the water side is being pumped with icewater.  I assume I could still do a hop steep or stand, just no whirlpooling.

2). Continue using the HopStopper, but resort to using hop bags or a hop spider so that I can pull the hops and I assume I can at least recirculate and whirlpool , but hot/cold break may still collect on the HopStopper and clog it.

3). Use no screen at all (naked pickup tube - see pic 7  and use hop bags or a hop spider and pull the hops at the end of the boil.  This would allow me to whirlpool and recirculate. 

4). Use no screen at all but allow free floating hops (pellet and whole), do no recirculation, but whirlpool after knockout with a paddle for 20 min and then start pumping with the assumption that the cone has formed.  I fear whole hops may run a risk of clogging me up though.

5). Use a Blichmann Hop Blocker, but use hop bags when using Whole Hops?

Any other thoughts/suggestions/advice is welcome. 

Beer Recipes / The Avery Whirlpooling discussion got me started....
« on: October 30, 2012, 10:31:22 PM »
So the discussion in the Avery IPA thread got me piqued on doing the 45min whirlpool/hop stand-steep method again.  I tried hop stand a while back but did not give it a fair shake.

Then I started thinking about doing an only 90 min + whirlpool/hop stand + dry hop or do just FWH + whirlpool/hopstand + dry hop.

Here's what I came up with for a hop schedule - what do you think?

Style: American IPA
TYPE: All Grain
Taste: (35.0)

Recipe Specifications
Boil Size: 14.06 gal
Post Boil Volume: 12.48 gal
Batch Size (fermenter): 12.00 gal   
Bottling Volume: 12.00 gal
Estimated OG: 1.064 SG
Estimated Color: 5.8 SRM
Estimated IBU: 74.1 IBUs
Brewhouse Efficiency: 75.00 %
Est Mash Efficiency: 75.0 %
Boil Time: 90 Minutes

Amt                   Name                                     Type          #        %/IBU         
21 lbs                Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM)           Grain         1        74.3 %       
4 lbs                 Pale Malt, Maris Otter (3.0 SRM)         Grain         2        14.2 %       
2 lbs                 Vienna Malt (3.5 SRM)                    Grain         3        7.1 %         
1 lbs                 Caramel/Crystal Malt - 10L (10.0 SRM)    Grain         4        3.5 %         
4.0 oz                Caramel/Crystal Malt - 60L (60.0 SRM)    Grain         5        0.9 %         
2.00 oz               Simcoe [13.00 %] - First Wort 20.0 min   Hop           6        26.2 IBUs     
2.00 oz               Amarillo Gold [8.50 %] - Boil 17.5 min   Hop           7        12.9 IBUs     
2.00 oz               Centennial [10.00 %] - Boil 17.5 min     Hop           8        15.2 IBUs     
2.00 oz               Simcoe [13.00 %] - Boil 17.5 min         Hop           9        19.8 IBUs     
2.0 pkg               California Ale (White Labs #WLP001) [35. Yeast         10       -             
2.00 oz               Amarillo Gold [8.50 %] - Dry Hop 10.0 Da Hop           11       0.0 IBUs     
2.00 oz               Simcoe [13.00 %] - Dry Hop 10.0 Days     Hop           12       0.0 IBUs     
1.00 oz               Columbus (Tomahawk) [14.00 %] - Dry Hop  Hop           13       0.0 IBUs     

Mash Schedule: Single Infusion, Light Body
Total Grain Weight: 28 lbs 4.0 oz
Name              Description                             Step Temperat Step Time     
Mash In           Add 44.39 qt of water at 161.5 F        153.0 F       75 min       

7gms gypsum, 4gm epsom, 4 gm CaCl to mash
4.4gms gypsum, 2.5gm CaCl to sparge, 2.5 epsom

Equipment and Software / Sabco Brew Kettle Worth?
« on: October 19, 2012, 02:24:38 PM »
How much do you guys think a Sabco keg-kettle with Sabco hinged false bottom and pick up tube with ball valve is worth?

Guy in my brewclub wants to buy it and while I'll give him a deal, I don't want to give it away either.

Equipment and Software / Staining
« on: October 17, 2012, 03:00:30 PM »
This is a dumb question but here goes...

I am almost finished building the bench/stand for my new electric brewing system and am at the staining stage.

Should I stain everything, including the undercarriage, or should I just stain what the eyes can see? 

Projects I have done in the past did not really require (inside of planters, dog feeders, etc) so I am not quite sure what the protocol is.

Obviously I know it wouldn't hurt anything, but I'd hate to spend all the effort for no reason.

General Homebrew Discussion / Checking Back In.
« on: September 11, 2012, 07:33:33 PM »
Hello there fellas - not that I'm all that important, but 1 or 2 of you PM'd me wondering if I was okay.  In the infamous words of George Costanza "I'm back, baby"

Beer Travel / Best beer bar or brewpub in Nashville?
« on: June 18, 2012, 11:56:36 PM »
Will be there Wednesday night - name says it all - whatcha got?

Commercial Beer Reviews / SN Ruthless Rye IPA
« on: January 13, 2012, 02:24:45 PM »
Picked up a 12er earlier this week and cracked a couple last night at our club meeting.  Very, very nice.  I generally have not liked most Rye IPAs in the past, but this one is tasty - enough to maybe make me want to try making that variation one more time.

The rye is very subtle - a little in the nose, a bit of dry bite in the finish.  Nice fresh hop aroma - I couldn't identify varietals, but I'm sure its on the website - will have to check.  Much drier and crisper than Torpedo - while I've read a lot of people compared it to Torpedo + Rye, to me it has more of the malt flavor and similar hop flavor to Celebration.

Anyhow, maybe not the best "Rye IPA" but its a solid IPA in its own right.

Pimp My System / My Home-Brewhouse Build
« on: December 02, 2011, 08:20:54 PM »
Figured maybe some of you fellas would be interested to see some of our progress to this point.  Not sure if this is quite the right subpage, since I am in the process of pimping, but anyhow.

This is the view as you walk in from the garage, floor drain in the center: 

here is the back wall - the back 36" of concrete is raised 4" so I can put all fermentation/lagering fridges and other dry equipment raised up so as not to be damaged if I need to hose down the floor.  also, I have four independent outlets to power the fridges and other equipment in the wall.

here is the view if standing on the raised concrete portion:

here is a view of the heart of the operation - the back wall where the kettles will reside.  the orange paint to the left indicates where the electrical panel will be attached to the wall with a 30A/240V dryer outlet beside. 

in the center is the hood of course - you can see the duct - when we trim out a SS condensate hood will be attached to the bottom of the chase. 

the blue line is a water line to a pot filler for dispensing RO from a RO machine/filter behind the wall with a 30-40gal holding tank. 

the wall to the right of that (which has no picture) will have the sink and counter area.

And here is the view of the same wall now that it is "drywalled" with Durarock and then stucco scratch coat on top

The holes on the left and right are where some hi-hats will eventually be housed.

Anyhow, that's it for now.

Equipment and Software / Is my Freezer shot?
« on: November 30, 2011, 01:33:40 PM »
So I guess when I took a hydro sample from my conical last night, I did not close the door tight enough on my chest freezer and it was cracked open and thus ran all night.

I turned it off before going to work this morning - but what should I expect - is it a certainty that it is dead, or is it possible it just froze up and i need to leave it sit warm for a day?

Any advice appreciated.


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