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Messages - blatz

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1921
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: wort chillers
« on: July 28, 2011, 11:37:25 AM »
jeffy - how long does it take you to get to 60df with your method?  I do the same exact thing, but with an IC in the kettle instead of a CFC.  It takes me about 45min in the summer, maybe 35-40 in the fall/winter months.

1922
Ingredients / Re: Coriander question
« on: July 27, 2011, 02:29:13 PM »
Charlie P. wrote something once about coriander limiting the amount of staling from oxidation.  I don't remember that he did any experiments, just observations about the longevity of his beers with the spice added.

I don't doubt it - I found a 2.5gal keg of a toasted oatmeal wit that I did over a year and a half ago that sat under my stairs at 75df. was going to dump it, but figured I'd chill it and hook up a tap and see what it was like before the drain got it.  suprisingly, it isn't stale or old at all and its actually not bad - a little over-dry, but good.  Only one data point, but I can see it working.

1923
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Stir plate vortex
« on: July 26, 2011, 06:02:54 PM »
yep - that's it - one of my brewing buddies gave one to me recently for my birthday.  In preparation for the IPA I brewed 1.5 weeks ago, I ran 2 flasks of 2L starter side by side and I was able to run the starburst bar at about a 1/8-1/4 turn slower than the straight hex ring bar and still got a visibly similar vortex.

I would think it may help your situation, Jeff - it does seems harder to throw.


1924
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Stir plate vortex
« on: July 26, 2011, 04:26:50 PM »
FWIW, I recently started using a starburst stir bar, which seems to create a greater vortex at lower RPMs. 

1925
All Grain Brewing / Re: Recipe of the Week- Red Velvet- IBUs?
« on: July 22, 2011, 11:10:46 AM »
Love the beer and cant wait to make it. After entering it into BeerSmith I show it with 97IBUs but recipe stats show 66IBUs. Any feedback would be great. Checked all settings and amounts/time/AAs. Using Rager as well.

Thanks
Heath

what happens when you flip to Tinseth?

1926
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: How many people use hop bags?
« on: July 20, 2011, 03:55:48 PM »
Paul,

No, it doesn't matter. And I'm not challenging the notion that there's a utilization difference attributable to using a bag.  It's just that 10% is a rather precise figure that's been repeated many times over. I was curious if this was the result of a lab test.

 I hear ya! I just meant that you'll have to try it yourself to make the ultimate determination.  That "FWH ~20min addition" stuff has been repeated over and over ad nauseum too, yet lab results suggest otherwise.  That's all I was trying to say.

1927
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: How many people use hop bags?
« on: July 20, 2011, 02:10:15 PM »
From talking with some other brewers I did learn that as a general rule of thumb using a hop bag decreases the hops efficiency by about 10%

I've heard this before. Does anyone know the basis for the 10% figure?  Is it the result of a lab test?  Or just perception?

does it matter? Denny has had his FWH beers test out to 10% more IBUs than the same beer brewed with a 60 minute addition of the same amount, yet I see posts all over saying "to me FWH is like a 20 minute addition" in terms of bitterness.  (emphasis mine)

point is - you'll need to use a bag and see if it really is any different in your perception - size of bag, apparatus used if any, all come into play. 

I did not notice much difference, but these were lighter hopped beers (helles, vienna, czech pils) so its understandable.

1928
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: When to drink my AHA Beer
« on: July 20, 2011, 10:05:38 AM »
How can something be "double black"?

The same way Stone's RIS is an Imperial Russian Stout  ;)

1929
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: When to drink my AHA Beer
« on: July 20, 2011, 06:21:33 AM »
Holding on to the Double Black IPA from Stone, as its the only beer UPS didn't "lose" on the way back from San Diego.  Mainly because I carried it myself.  I was wondering how long I should hold off...

waiting for the 'drink it fresh' folks to chime in.  :)

Looks like that is also the 15th anniversary beer, so assuming you can buy Stone in your area, you *could* go buy a few when it comes out in August and have that one now and lay a few down for later on.

The only beers I like to age are Old Ales and RIS (maybe a few others - I have 12 lambic 750s aging right now) , so I guess I'm one of those "drink it fresh folks" - I prefer Bigfoot fresh actually  :o

1930
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Stepping up US-05 for 11 gal batch
« on: July 19, 2011, 04:23:29 PM »
DME you would need to make your starter is probably about the same cost.

+1 - you'd probably need at least a half pound of DME...

1931
The Pub / Re: Vibrams
« on: July 19, 2011, 08:51:44 AM »

1932
The Pub / Re: Vibrams
« on: July 18, 2011, 08:29:36 AM »
cool conversation guys - I've been on the fence about getting them, but my Asics are wearing out now, and I think I may go try these on based on the good reviews.

1933
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: How many people use hop bags?
« on: July 18, 2011, 08:26:43 AM »
I use a 5 gallon nylon paint strainer for everything but a FWH addition.  Works great -- minimal mess.

I like this idea, but it seems like it would be somewhat difficult to use with an immersion chiller.

use this: http://www.bayareamashers.org/gadgets/Hop%20bag%20holder.pdf

and then with an oven mitt, you can lift the hops out and sneak the IC underneath - takes a little technique, but its doable.

1934
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: ProMash -> BeerSmith 2
« on: July 16, 2011, 07:14:02 AM »
 But ya know, I don't wanna choose a mash profile from a list.  I don't want to have to deal with equipment profiles.  I want it to be more free form.  It's entirely possible that it can work like that and I haven't figured it out yet, which is why I keep going back to Beersmith and working with it.  

Come on now - choose a basic one from a list and then alter it (via the little check box next to the list drop-down) to your heart's content - even rename it Denny's Nonconformist Mash profile  ;) you can add steps or delete them, etc. And you can save your own mash profile to reuse later.

Its not rigid - its organized and actually quite versatile- you just have to know how to work within its parameters, which involves playing around with it to become accustomed.

What I'm hearing is simply people being used to a particular program - which is okay - nothing wrong with using what's comfortable.

Edit: actually, in looking at it - you don't even have to choose from the list - just hit "add mash step"

1935
Equipment and Software / Re: Placement of Vent for Condensate Hood
« on: July 16, 2011, 07:06:41 AM »
The hood is 6' and has an 8" round exhaust riser on the top to which I will reduce to 6" and hook up a vortex fan. 
Why are you reducing it?  8" diameter is almost twice a large as 6".

My guess would be because his vortex fan is 6"

good question tom - but yes, I've decided on the 6" vortex fan since it has a max CFM of 449 (which I am adding a control to lower when full power not needed) but the 8" has a max of 747 CFM which is considerably higher than what I need.  I can of course mod it with a controller - I'm not dead set yet, but being that the room is A/C'd, I want to be cautious of how much air is being sucked out.

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